First time replacing rear pads, questions?
#17
Ron M wrote:
Ron:
The stuff I got is sold in little packets and is widely available and is called "AGS Sil-GLYDE BRAKE LUBRICANT." If you put it on the edges of the pads, make sure you put it ONLY on the metal portion with a very light coat, otherwise a small amount will eventually end up working it's way onto the rotor. When you look at the pad it will be clear what i mean.
Now about the brake pad sensors. The fronts and rears look alike until you compare their lengths. The plastic in the area that fits into the notches on the pads is VERY brittle and easy to break. DON'T FORCE THEM, or you'll end up busting them (learned that the hard way). After busting one of these I did a preliminary fit (without pushing the sensors in place) to make sure they'd fit and then filed the notch area on the pad a little when needed to make sure they went in OK. I ordered 3 of the front sensors and 3 of the rear, and guess what...none are left.
A lot of people just don't bother with the sensors and instead cut the old wires sensor about an inch from where it comes out of it's connector, strip the wires, solder them together, and then put heat shrink tubing over them. All the sensor is, is a wire embedded in the plastic tab that fits into the brake pad. When the brakes wear down, they effectively "sand down" the surface of the sensors and eventually cause the little wire to break. This causes what was a completed circuit to become an open circuit and then the brake pad wear iights on the console go off.
I gave serious thought to shorting the connector and just leaving the sensors out, but I figure that I'll get about 40K - 50K miles out of the pads, which to me translates to about 7 years of use, and I would wonder if I'll really keep the car that long. A future buyer may see this as sloppy work, and a PPI may indicate that it's a job that needs to be done thus lowering the value of the car a little.
Hope this helps,
Bill, the high temp brake grease I imagine you can buy it from most auto parts stores. Is it specific for brake pads or for other uses? Any particular brand?
The stuff I got is sold in little packets and is widely available and is called "AGS Sil-GLYDE BRAKE LUBRICANT." If you put it on the edges of the pads, make sure you put it ONLY on the metal portion with a very light coat, otherwise a small amount will eventually end up working it's way onto the rotor. When you look at the pad it will be clear what i mean.
Now about the brake pad sensors. The fronts and rears look alike until you compare their lengths. The plastic in the area that fits into the notches on the pads is VERY brittle and easy to break. DON'T FORCE THEM, or you'll end up busting them (learned that the hard way). After busting one of these I did a preliminary fit (without pushing the sensors in place) to make sure they'd fit and then filed the notch area on the pad a little when needed to make sure they went in OK. I ordered 3 of the front sensors and 3 of the rear, and guess what...none are left.
A lot of people just don't bother with the sensors and instead cut the old wires sensor about an inch from where it comes out of it's connector, strip the wires, solder them together, and then put heat shrink tubing over them. All the sensor is, is a wire embedded in the plastic tab that fits into the brake pad. When the brakes wear down, they effectively "sand down" the surface of the sensors and eventually cause the little wire to break. This causes what was a completed circuit to become an open circuit and then the brake pad wear iights on the console go off.
I gave serious thought to shorting the connector and just leaving the sensors out, but I figure that I'll get about 40K - 50K miles out of the pads, which to me translates to about 7 years of use, and I would wonder if I'll really keep the car that long. A future buyer may see this as sloppy work, and a PPI may indicate that it's a job that needs to be done thus lowering the value of the car a little.
Hope this helps,
#18
Racer
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Bill,
Thanks again for the detail information. I didn't order extra pad sensors and may consider the bypass method if they break. Good point about the resale of the car.
Looking forward to getting my hands dirty this weekend....
Thanks again for the detail information. I didn't order extra pad sensors and may consider the bypass method if they break. Good point about the resale of the car.
Looking forward to getting my hands dirty this weekend....
#19
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Originally Posted by Bill Wagner
A future buyer may see this as sloppy work, and a PPI may indicate that it's a job that needs to be done thus lowering the value of the car a little.
Marc