sbelles

I think I've got everything ordered except the CRG49. Micro Center doesn't have them in stock but they have the G9 S49CG954 5k monitor for an additional $300. I'm also thinking it's probably worth it to upgrade to the Buttkicker Gamer Pro due to the size of the SimLab rig but they are currently out of stock so I'll get by with the Gamer 2s I have until they are available.

I'm not sure if there is a market for the currently bricked Clubsport wheel base but I think it's probably repairable so I think I'll hold onto it. Once I move the rig up to my shop within the year it would be nice to put together a 2nd budget rig so that head to head racing is an option. I still have a set of Thrustmaster pedals. I'm excited to get it together but I still need to run up to my shop for one of my old seats before I can try it out. I may change my mind but it seemed crazy to buy a seat for it when I have a couple of old ones sitting there.

peterp

For the monitor, the 32:9 ultrawide is enough for hot lapping, learning a track and most informal competition. For serious competitive racing, more FOV is helpful to be able to better see the cars around you in the heat of battle. A single 32:9 ultra-wide is effectively the screen area of two 16:9 monitors (in other words, it is effectively 2/3rds of standard triples). We are now running three 21:9 monitors, which is the same screen area as 4 standard 16:9 monitors.

We first tried adding curved 16:9's to the left and right of the 32:9 Samsung, but it turns out that iRacing does not handle non-uniform monitor sizes properly, so we could never get the FOV right. That was a rather painful lesson learned the hard way . We then retired the 32:9, and went to the triple 21:9 (21:9 monitors are also called "ultrawide", but less "ultra" than the 32:9 Samsung).

We purposely went with 1080p monitors (over 1440p) for the triple 21:9's to minimize PC processing power requirements for that much screen area -- probably not a concern for the single ultrawide. 1080p monitors are hard to find now, so it looks like we will have to get a 1440p LG to replace the one 1080p that prematurely failed. LG no longer makes the 1080 version, and I don't want to buy a used one because the reliability of that model is not good. I'm only going with LG again because of screen alignment with the other LG monitors -- hopefully the newer model 1440 will be more reliable.

I'll probably run the 1440p at 1080p (I've heard mixed feedback whether running 1440 at 1080p looks worse than a native 1080p monitor, but I have no choice but to go to 1440). I may try putting the 1440p in the center running it at 1440p with the left and right monitors at 1080p. Not sure if iRacing supports this properly, or what the CPU/Graphics load impact will be.

peterp

Regarding shakers, I actually prefer the Aura Pros over the Buttkicker. I had issues with the Gamer 2 amp wired remote not working and the Gamer 2 shaker itself would clunk audibly when pushed. I have 4 Aura Pros mounted under each of the corners seat frame driven by a 4-channel amp.

Regarding the CSW -- I'm surprised you have issues with it. Our initial CSW was rock solid for several years -- really didn't have any issues with it. It wasn't until we replaced the CSW with the DD2 that we had issues. Maybe it was some shared factor later firmware updates that made out DD2 and your CSW unreliable. I would think Fanatec would have an answer for "bricked". They would be responsive when pushed with support cases, but didn't have an answer for our random issues where the wheel would lose connection. A wheel being dead should be solvable I would think.

race7117

I would recommend the Simucube Direct drives as well. The Simucube Active Pedal is really next level stuff. You can adjust the pedal via the program to simulate anything you like. From Formula to GT cars the Cup to dialing in the specs of various road cars. It also provides engine feel and ABS if needed

sbelles

All I can say is WOW! I haven't gotten the rig fully adjusted yet and I don't have the hepatics hooked up but this thing is amazing. Especially with VR, it feels just like my car.

ProCoach

What are you doing for s shifter? I have a Derek Spear Design Cup shifter that is very good. Cheap, too. Pictured below.

His new Pro Shifter is even better, but a lot more money.

sbelles

The Heusinkveld Magshift. It feels pretty realistic. The VR hasn't bothered me except when I spun once. Then I got a little dizzy. Glad I have a screen on the way for backup

Where did you get the dead pedal? That's the one thing mine is missing.

ProCoach

This is not my rig, but have a GT4 Club Sport flat plate and dead pedal for ultimate realism!

Sell for what less than I paid, about $225, plus freight


The flat plate with the anti-skid and the dead pedal. It has mounting flanges that worked well in my rSeat sim frame.

sbelles

That might work if I can use it to replace this plate. I have another rail for the pedal mount. I think that inverted pedals would be better but then I wouldn't have a floor at all so I would need to figure that out.

ProCoach

Yes, just sandwich the pedals and the dead pedal is well supported.

Or you can add a tang to the extrusion on the left to the top of the dead pedal. It's amazing.

I'll post more pics of just the plate.

I don't think you need the heel stop.

peterp

One suggestion is to use larger mounting bolts and nuts than what Heusinkveld provides -- and to use Locktite on the nuts if you have shakers. Everything about the Heusinkveld pedals is first-rate, but the mounting bolts/nuts provided are oddly tiny. We had some of the bolts break after a few months of use, and also some come loose (presumably due to vibration from the shakers). Larger bolts fit without drilling (can't remember the size we used). If you do change the base plate, I'd recommend using larger bolts (if you haven't already) while you're in there.

sbelles

Edit: LOL. Auto start was off.

Love the sim so far but I've encountered a strange problem. Everything worked great until I switched cars one day and when I went back to the 991 cup the throttle doesn't work. It configures fine, the little green bar goes up and down but it makes no noise and doesn't move the car. The 992 still works fine. I reloaded the car files, no joy. I eventually reloaded the whole app but it still doesn't work. All other cars I*'ve tried since do the same thing but the 992 still works. I'm at a loss.

The picture is great with the Samsung monitor but the Rift is good for an additional 1.5 seconds at the glen.

sbelles

While both the 991 and 992 Cups are good practice, and a fair workout, the 410 sprint car on the dirt track at Williams Grove is a great workout for both the arms and legs. I did laps for an hour straight last night and I can feel it in the pecs today.