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This guide will assist you in putting a replacement battery in your 996. There are several different options you can go with in terms of a new battery. I went the route of several other GT3 guys and picked up the Duralast 48-DL. It was just over $100 (tax included) once you return your core.
Tools Needed:
Ratchet
10mm Socket
13mm Socket
First step is to pop the hood and remove the battery panel cover. Simply twist the two tabs shown below 90 degrees to release the clips. Pull the panel up and out.
Grab your ratchet and 10mm socket. Un-do the positive terminal clamp and pull it off the battery.
Move to the other side and repeat with the negative terminal
Next, locate the vent tube on the battery. Simply pull it off to remove
Last step to remove the battery is taking off the lower clamp. Grab a 13mm socket with an extension and remove the bolt shown below. With the bolt removed you can take the clamp out. Remember the orientation for installation later
Battery is ready to come out now
To remove the battery, slide it toward the passenger side of the tray a little bit. Grab the handles and pull it out. Be careful as it is a little heavy.
I am pretty sure the battery i had installed was not the OEM battery. I put it on the scale and found it weighted about 36.9 pounds. I put the Duralast battery on and weighed it in at 34.4. Saving a little over 2 lbs with the new battery.
Pop on the vent tube that was included with the new battery
You can now drop the new battery in the car. Goes it the same way it came out, exact fit. Once the battery is in place, re-insert the lower clamp and tighten the 13mm socket. After you are done check for movement. If satisfied move on
The OEM 90 degree elbow for the vent tube will not work with the new battery. You need to remove the elbow from the stock tube by simply pulling it off
A shot of the new vent tube adapter that came with the battery
Small end goes on the vent tube connected to the car and the larger end connects to the new battery vent tube as shown below
Throw the positive and negative terminals back on and viola! You have successfully changed the battery in your car. Check to make sure everything is powered. If all is good, pop on the panel cover and go for a ride!
If you have any questions or concerns about this DIY tutorial please feel free to comment or send me a private message. I hope you have benefited from this article. Always check back for new articles posted here on Euro Addiction!
The only thing I would do differently is to remove the negative cable first, that way if you accidentally hit the body with your wrench you won't get any sparks or accidentally weld your wrench to something.
The only thing I would do differently is to remove the negative cable first, that way if you accidentally hit the body with your wrench you won't get any sparks or accidentally weld your wrench to something.
+1
Always, always negative off first and last to be hooked up when the new battery goes in.
Do you need to hook up some sort of trickle charger to maintain the state of the computer as you change the battery? I seem to remember that the electronics have to be re-flashed if you completely lose power.
Directions were great. Again, the only thing I would do different (already mentioned) is to disconnect Negative first, then Positive. When installing the new battery, Positive, then Negative.
I purchased the Duralast 48 at Autozone for $104.99.
Quick question...i had disconnected the battery to replace my indicator switch assembly and after reinstalling i dont have some power items such as auto up/down windows or power steering.
Is there something i need to reset?
Thanks
Great instructions. I used an OBD II plug w/cigarette lighter and small jump start battery to maintain all settings when I removed the old battery. Thanks for these postings, this site is invaluable!
About car radio code: the radio code is pre-programmed into the DME module and it can be read with a diagnostics device (e.g. PIWIS). Note however, it has no relation with the actual radio module, so if the radio has been replaced or recoded, the code will not match. Also, chaning the code in the DME wil obviously not change it in the radio module.
I cannot get the pictures of the various steps to replace the battery to show on my computer. any suggestions, or can this be e-mailed to me?
+1 on the pictures - Would love to see the images.
Kurt
New info, tried going to the euro-addiction link at the bottom of the original post in hopes of tracking down the images for the DIY, site is expired/awaiting renewal.
Last edited by Kurt_Seattle; 12-06-2014 at 06:58 PM.
Reason: New information
I just bought an iCarSoft POR V2.0 to diagnose my 2013 991's battery's condition, as I believe the nearly 7 year-old battery's to blame for some weird stuff going on with the car (front radiator fans keep starting up full-blast a few minutes after shutdown for no apparent reason). Below is the battery report the iCarSoft produced, and I'm wondering if the highlighted portions confirm it's time to replace the battery. Note also the battery voltage of 12.15v (same as the instrument cluster was reporting) and open-circuit voltage of 12.4v, both of which seem low. The car was last driven yesterday on the highway, and the report was run with the car "on" but the engine was not started.
Many thanks for any help and advice anyone can provide.
04-27-2011, 08:51 PM
Porsche 996 DIY: Battery Replacement
