krobertson

It seems like whenever I record video from inside the cabin, you can see the interior really well and outside is all overblown and can't see squat. It always focuses and adjusts to inside rather than outside or balancing.

Yesterday I was at Laguna Seca, first time tracking my GT3, decided to try it inside the car since the preview looked "ok". My first time using any kind of data logging (Harry's Lap Timer). Get home at the end of the day, and all the videos look like crap. I can't see outside at all.

I'm using a GoPro 4 Silver and have poked around the settings to find adjustments, but couldn't find anything. What have others done?

See here for an example: https://rbrtsn.smugmug.com/Track-Day...16/i-fNTQGjZ/A

linzman

First off, try moving your camera forward so the windshield portion is the majority of the screen. That will help the auto exposure. You have too much dark in the frame, which causes overexposure of the outside. There are also some settings on the camera that will help, but it's been a while since I played with a GoPro and i don't remember. But moving the camera will help a lot.

krobertson

Two things I forgot to mention...

I had been looking at moving to a Solo DL since it can integrate on CAN to get more... and so I can analyse stuff outside of the phone.

Is the SmartyCam generally better around some of these things? Harry's is ok, but left me a bit meh with video processing. Briefly tried working others for the overlays and wasn't very impressed. An integrated option looks more appealing... though more costly.

One other question... is there any hope for these videos after the fact? Or are they just a loss.

linzman

You get what you pay for. Harry's is great, as a $20 phone app it does amazing things. There are many options, and some of the folks here who sell them can go over details with you, but just go look on YouTube and watch some videos. It will be quickly apparent how well the more expensive stuff just works well right out of the box. If all you want is to show your videos to friends and family, play with your existing stuff and make it work. If you really want to get serious and improve your driving, it might be worth it to buy something more.

krobertson

Yes, I've already been talking with one from the forum about buying the Solo DL and possibly a SmartyCam. But I wanted to use Harry's first so I could try the $20 solution before more expensive solution.

Would like to see if I can restore these videos some way, since there were a few laps I took notes on that I wanted to review. And want to ensure I things set up better before my next track day.

ProCoach

The SmartyCam is better because the area to set the "white balance" is adjustable. It works back in the cabin (harness bar area) or front of the cabin (inside the windshield).

The Solo DL/SmartyCam HD combination is ideal because it's completely automated, had tracks preloaded, supplies ready-to-play instrumented video and supplies serious data with a good analysis program if you want to dig deeper. Plus the display has a couple good tools to determine factually what approach/line/gear works WITHOUT coming back in and analyzing the information or reviewing the video.

I stock these and send them pre configured for your application, let me know if I can help.

FergusH

I've got good news for you! The fix for this problem takes about two seconds: turn on the spot metering mode on the GoPro.

The problem you see in your video is caused by GoPro's exposure system trying to get everything correctly exposed. With a dark interior and a bright exterior, that's impossible and because the dark interior is 80% of the picture, the GoPro's exposure system gives the interior the priority so the outside is blown out.

If you turn on the spot meter mode, the GoPro will correctly exposure whatever is in the very middle of the picture and not worry about anything else. The outside will look great and the inside will be a bit dark, which is fine. You just need to make sure that what's in the middle of the picture is the outside and not, say, your rearview mirror.

The GoPro manual is here; spot metering is talked about on page 36:
http://cbcdn2.gp-static.com/uploads/...G_REVA_WEB.pdf

krobertson

Thank you! Spot meter was exactly what I needed! Working much better just testing looking out the window.

Will see if I stick with the GoPro or need it before I get a SmartyCam.

NYoutftr

Good information

certz

+1 - I just switched from a GoPro to the SmartyCam HD and it takes much better video, plus the auto on/off makes it full proof for capturing video every time you go out - I cannot tell you how many times I forgot to start the GoPro or forgot to turn it off and killed the battery. It is definitely a big jump in price but well worth it IMO.

ProCoach

It's a big jump in price for three reasons.

1) it's a self contained computer that renders digital information ONTO the video real-time, so that the video is a finished product with information on it and playable immediately. It has a CPU, a GPU and its own Linux operating system, together with one of the best lenses (no shake, rattle or distortion around the edges) in the business.

2) it's completely modular. It has the capability of operating standalone with power and GPS to generate "intelligent" (information-laden) video without an attached logger, if you at looking for video only. It starts up with power, starts when triggered by a particular g-force or speed, and shuts down automatically after a programmable delay. No more "dead time" video burning up card space on long holds at the false grid. Plus, put the coordinates of the tracks you go to in it (or make your own with a few button presses) and lap timing on the video is automatic.

3) it's completely modular when connected to another AiM logger. Almost all the measures taken in by the logger can be shown on the video. Particularly useful is brake pressure and throttle position, as well as RPM. THIS is the information people need to SEE upon returning to the paddock... Plus, the battery on the camera (used to close the video successfully and without corruption) is charged automatically from the connected logger, where it also gets GPS info.

It's also made out of a solid block of billet aluminum. It's waterproof (not to any great depth but meets IP67 spec) and will last as long as MANY GoPro's, for sure!

Matt Romanowski

What Peter said.

The real value is in the automatic power, record, stop, and shut off. Add in the connection to an AiM data system and it's a great tool (and camera). For what we spend on our hobby, it's really not that much.

Kein_Ersatz

Went to SmartyCam HD this winter from Contour HD (pre GoPro) HD and Harry's Lap Timer... No going back. Connected to an MXL2/external GPS in my 993, but I like the fact I can pull the SCHD and use it solo in say a SPA or Ring rental car in Europe with still a ton of capabilities w/o the MXL2/Evo4.

Matt Romanowski

As long as you have a Smartycam GPS hooked up.