Difool

I have a new SoloDL and SCHD GP setup with the CAN harness. (thanks Matt!) I'm doing all my research before I get into it, and am comfortable that I can find the CAN twisted pair that runs in the harness next to he fuse box. This is from several pictures that have been posted in this sub-forum, so thanks everyone! I've got the tools and soldering experience, so I'm comfortable on that front.

But I'm not so comfortable that I really know the best way to get switched power and ground. My car is parked in a garage about 1/4 mile from my house and shop so getting into the project without being prepared can get tiring fast . The only definitive thing I have heard and have seen is to use a plug-in pigtail in one of the unused switched fuse locations, like C6 for the rear wiper.

But that's not very clean, so I was wondering what the norm is for those of you that have installed many of these. If you solder into one of the wires in the nearby harnesses, how do you identify which to use.

And wile this probably falls into the "duh, obvious" category, where do you all connect the ground, specifically?

Thanks for any help. I've scanned hundreds of pages in this and the P-9 forums, including some for wiring in radar detectors, but haven't seen what I think I need yet.

-Erik

Bill Lehman

I used an Add-A-Circuit on a switched fuse in the fuse box. Turned out pretty clean. When you remove the panel to access the CAN in the twisted cable you will find a ground lug near the floor.

Difool

Good info, thanks.

Difool

OK, I'm back. I went to the garage today to investigate further. I wanted to make sure I could get to the wires OK and verify that everything I read made sense. After all, I don't want to splice into the wrong wires!

Pro Coach said, for the 987.2 are yellow/red and yellow/brown. I found about 10 twisted pairs in total! But a few were lower-gauge, and a few were solid colors, and a few had green in them

I kept on digging and I found another pair in the back/middle of the bundle, see the first picture below. This matches the AiM documentation that Matt sent me. Yellow/white for CAN High, twisted with Black/white for CAN Low. Can anyone do me a favor and validate that?




I didn't see this bugger hiding in the middle/back of the bundle. This is Yellow/White twisted with Black/White. This is the color combination that AiM mentioned. I half want this to be wrong because it's probably one of the harder wires to get at.





A couple candidates, but don't match anything I've read, or at least taken notes on. You can see a few other's two, in both bundles (green, etc.).

Difool

Also, the bolt to hold the harness bracket looks like a good ground, right? Is that the one people were describing?

One possible issue. I ordered an "Add-a-Circuit plug, out of about 20 on Amazon, but none of them mentioned sizes or anything - Just that they were "Automotive". It looks like the wrong size! On top of that the fit is precarious. It doesn't push in and hold the way the fuses do. Here's a pic. Doesn't feel right.





Left is the 15 amp spare fuse from the car. Right is the add-a-circuit.


and not everything was a dead-end. TPC sent back my DSS with the new 2-mode maps (to replace the 3-modes), and I dropped that in no problem, and validated it does toggle between solid on and solid off (no more blinking!). Didn't drive the car yet.

ProCoach

Don't overthink this. You are correct.

Matt Romanowski

Looks good. I shot you a link for a better add-a-fuse.