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Old 06-15-2018, 03:14 PM
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daylorb
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Default AIM Solo DL Charging question

So I hooked up a Solo DL to my Spyder, for the most part it appears to be working, however it is not charging. I've gone through the manual and am confused. Clearly it can be charged via USB, and via the separate 12V, but I've hooked up to the CAN bus as well as via add-a-fuse to the 12V and ground that is part of the Can bus connection.

I was under the impression that it should be able to be powered and charged that way? Is that the case? Mine is definitely not charging that way - trying to figure out what is going on.
Old 06-15-2018, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by daylorb
So I hooked up a Solo DL to my Spyder, for the most part it appears to be working, however it is not charging. I've gone through the manual and am confused. Clearly it can be charged via USB, and via the separate 12V, but I've hooked up to the CAN bus as well as via add-a-fuse to the 12V and ground that is part of the Can bus connection.

I was under the impression that it should be able to be powered and charged that way? Is that the case? Mine is definitely not charging that way - trying to figure out what is going on.
You need a separate ground for the power. Anything to the chassis will work.
Old 06-15-2018, 03:41 PM
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daylorb
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Originally Posted by Thundermoose
You need a separate ground for the power. Anything to the chassis will work.
I grounded it to the chassis bolt near the fuse box - same ground I used for my hard-wired radar detector. Ground and 12V appear to both be connected properly.
Old 06-15-2018, 05:05 PM
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I would check voltage at the add a fuse butt connector. Something’s off, because if plugged in the bottom row of 7.5A fuses, that’s key on power...
Old 06-15-2018, 06:05 PM
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daylorb
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Originally Posted by ProCoach
I would check voltage at the add a fuse butt connector. Something’s off, because if plugged in the bottom row of 7.5A fuses, that’s key on power...
Thanks - will do - so it should charge through the add-a-fuse adapter, no need to run a second wire? That makes sense.
Old 06-15-2018, 07:36 PM
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Just to make sure, you have the CAN +&- to the appropriate wires and then the ground to the chassis and the 12v to the add a fuse?

Also, was the SCHD dead when you began or was it above 75%?
Old 06-15-2018, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by daylorb
Thanks - will do - so it should charge through the add-a-fuse adapter, no need to run a second wire? That makes sense.
Correct.
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Old 06-15-2018, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Romanowski

Also, was the SCHD dead when you began or was it above 75%?
This is only an issue with the GP version, unless the standatd SCHD is completely dead...
Old 06-15-2018, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ProCoach
This is only an issue with the GP version, unless the standatd SCHD is completely dead...
I've seen a couple all in one SCHD this year under 50% that acted weird until charged more. Better to eliminate the that problem while we are working it .
Old 06-16-2018, 12:20 PM
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The CAN is hooked up properly as far as I know. I am receiving data like oil temp/etc. from it. I charged the Aim overnight using the USB charger before I did the install. I'm a bit of a newbie - what is the SCHD?
Old 06-16-2018, 12:26 PM
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SmartyCam HD
Old 06-16-2018, 12:27 PM
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The Solo DL has a battery indicator top left. If you're getting a charge, the bars climb repeatedly.
Old 06-17-2018, 04:37 PM
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Ok - finally figured it out. I had a fuse in the add-a-fuse for the Aim, but not for the original fuse since it was already empty (I believe it was heated seat). The add-a-fuse needs a fuse in both slots which still seems strange to me. If the main fuse goes, then both will fail, which I guess makes sense given it is coming from one circuit.

Gremlins.
Old 06-17-2018, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by daylorb
Ok - finally figured it out. I had a fuse in the add-a-fuse for the Aim, but not for the original fuse since it was already empty (I believe it was heated seat). The add-a-fuse needs a fuse in both slots which still seems strange to me. If the main fuse goes, then both will fail, which I guess makes sense given it is coming from one circuit.

Gremlins.
No. you just had the fuse in the wrong socket in the Add-a-Fuse. One socket is to bridge the original circuit the Add-a-Fuse is replacing. The other socket is for the fuse that is for the added circuit (pigtail) off the Add-a-Fuse. If you just put the fuse in the other socket, it would have worked.

This is why I’m either sending add-a-fuses WITH two fuses in them, or with an Add-a-Tap to connect to one of the leads off the back of the bottom row of fuses. So that this won’t happen...

Glad you figured this out.
Old 06-17-2018, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ProCoach


No. you just had the fuse in the wrong socket in the Add-a-Fuse. One socket is to bridge the original circuit the Add-a-Fuse is replacing. The other socket is for the fuse that is for the added circuit (pigtail) off the Add-a-Fuse. If you just put the fuse in the other socket, it would have worked.

This is why I’m either sending add-a-fuses WITH two fuses in them, or with an Add-a-Tap to connect to one of the leads off the back of the bottom row of fuses. So that this won’t happen...

Glad you figured this out.

This is how I had it wired, I just left the original empty and only put a fuse in the new. Maybe I got it backwards?

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/proxy....06a95b751bd731

Last edited by daylorb; 06-17-2018 at 11:44 PM. Reason: updated



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