No luck getting bottom window seal strips black
#1
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No luck getting bottom window seal strips black
The window seal/gasket strips below the front windows on my 997 will not stay black for any amount of time. Oddly, the strips below the rear windows look OK. The strips will not take 303 very well - it just sits on top. Mothers Back to Black looks good for a few days, then Back to Chalky.
Is there a pre-treatment I need to do? Maybe some dunce put wax on them?
The inside gasket (the actual seal) is mint solid black, as are the door seals, sunroof seal, etc. Just this one area isn't cooperating. Any advice?
Is there a pre-treatment I need to do? Maybe some dunce put wax on them?
The inside gasket (the actual seal) is mint solid black, as are the door seals, sunroof seal, etc. Just this one area isn't cooperating. Any advice?
#2
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If these seals have gone any extended length of time without protection they are likely damaged beyond repair. I have also noticed that they abrade very easily and then take on a shiny worn appearance. It's a poor quality material IMHO. So the likely solution is to replace or maybe try painting them.
#3
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If these seals have gone any extended length of time without protection they are likely damaged beyond repair. I have also noticed that they abrade very easily and then take on a shiny worn appearance. It's a poor quality material IMHO. So the likely solution is to replace or maybe try painting them.
I'm also thinking some strong wax remover or bug-n-tar remover pre-prep, to get them dry again, so that maybe they'll take the 303. Maybe sanding? I just don't want to make it worse.
#5
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Thanks for the offer to help nathan1. Here's a very UN-flattering photo I just took after driving in the rain. They typically look a little better than this, but this photo shows the color difference well.
#6
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Posting for a bump and my thoughts - though inexperienced.
I'm sure the 303 and Back to Black directions state this but make sure the trim is totally clean. Wash/scrub with soapy water being careful not to damage the paint below. You might even try warm water and or wax remover like you mentioned. Rinse off, dry, and then use IPA to further remove dirt and soap film until no black is rubbing off on your MF. When dry again then apply 303, or Back to Black. 303 doesn't really make black trim stand out much more I find. It may be this frustrating problem would be solved with multiple coats that just need to soak in (why after a few days it goes dry again).
I'm curious what other techniques might work better.
I'm sure the 303 and Back to Black directions state this but make sure the trim is totally clean. Wash/scrub with soapy water being careful not to damage the paint below. You might even try warm water and or wax remover like you mentioned. Rinse off, dry, and then use IPA to further remove dirt and soap film until no black is rubbing off on your MF. When dry again then apply 303, or Back to Black. 303 doesn't really make black trim stand out much more I find. It may be this frustrating problem would be solved with multiple coats that just need to soak in (why after a few days it goes dry again).
I'm curious what other techniques might work better.
#7
Do not despair. I had the same problem on my 997 S or Turbo, I don't recall which one, but it is an EASY fix.
I applied some Griot's rubber cleaner to the chalky areas using an old T-shirt over the tip of my index finger. Under moderate pressure going back and forth over that rubber trim strip, the residue came right off and stayed off.
I don't think there is anything magical about the Griot's product. I think any rubber cleaner would work. Good luck, but don't sweat it. This is a common and easy problem to reverse.
I applied some Griot's rubber cleaner to the chalky areas using an old T-shirt over the tip of my index finger. Under moderate pressure going back and forth over that rubber trim strip, the residue came right off and stayed off.
I don't think there is anything magical about the Griot's product. I think any rubber cleaner would work. Good luck, but don't sweat it. This is a common and easy problem to reverse.
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#8
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Good advice on cleaning. I am certainly getting a lot of black resudue on the towel. On a small area, I tried some orange oil suspended in a weak IPA and the black just never stopped comming off. I followed with 303. Lasted all of one day. I love 303 (learned about it here on Rennlist) but it isn't the trick for this.
Today in the mail I should get a product called Solution Finish. This is solvent based so it'll be stronger thab B2B or 303 for sure. I am going to start with a good cleaning and IPA wipedown. I'll post the results!
Today in the mail I should get a product called Solution Finish. This is solvent based so it'll be stronger thab B2B or 303 for sure. I am going to start with a good cleaning and IPA wipedown. I'll post the results!
#9
I'm waiting to hear back Chrono with my fingers crossed. I looked at a used 2012 911 and the window trim we are talking about on it was faded to the point that it made the car look very tired. My new 911 already has signs that the trim is not going to last and usually looks spotty.
My guess is someone will figure out a good paint for them, I don't think this material soaks in anything very well.
My guess is someone will figure out a good paint for them, I don't think this material soaks in anything very well.
#10
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OK, so I can declare a preliminary success with this product called Solution Finish. If it can stay looking like this for 3 or 4 months at a time, which is what people are reporting, I'd be happy. I am going to layer it with some dressing soon, as I've heard it accepts a topper very well.
To my surprise, the fluid is pitch black. Not that I cared, just didn't know. The fact that it's solvent-based, combined with the dye or whatever it is, is what sets it apart from Mothers B2B and other OTC products. It's a wipe-on, wait, wipe-off application. I've used two coats spaced over a few days, and the last pic is a few days after I was done.
At $15 for one ounce at the typical detail sites makes it worth a shot.
To my surprise, the fluid is pitch black. Not that I cared, just didn't know. The fact that it's solvent-based, combined with the dye or whatever it is, is what sets it apart from Mothers B2B and other OTC products. It's a wipe-on, wait, wipe-off application. I've used two coats spaced over a few days, and the last pic is a few days after I was done.
At $15 for one ounce at the typical detail sites makes it worth a shot.
#11
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That looks fantastic. Definitely keep us posted on how long it lasts and what type of conditions.
#12
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#13
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I assumed the stuff below the trim was a coat of wax, good idea.