Advice on non-clear coat
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
Advice on non-clear coat
I've searched back a couple of years but rather than make assumptions ....
I have neglected the car and have only used Mother's cleaner/wax.
Finish has gone a bit milky and looks like crap.
Time to give it some respect.
I understand I need to clay / clean / wax?
The car has been painted 15 years ago and it's a non-clear coat.
Thanks
Rod
I have neglected the car and have only used Mother's cleaner/wax.
Finish has gone a bit milky and looks like crap.
Time to give it some respect.
I understand I need to clay / clean / wax?
The car has been painted 15 years ago and it's a non-clear coat.
Thanks
Rod
#3
Not in MA anymore
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
By and large what would be the material differences in non-clear and modern clear coat paint restoration / detailing?
Matt
Matt
#4
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: London,UK / Florida US State- Dazed & Confused
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To confirm that you have single stage paint wipe an inconspicuous area using a mild solvent cleaner you'll see the vehicles paint colour on the cloth.
The differences between a single stage paint system (base and a colour coat) and a urethane clear coat (base, colour and clear coat) finish is that the single stage paint is generally ‘softer’ and therefore easier to polish (this is due to the colour pigment used (i.e. White is very hard (Mohs - 7/10) - Black is softer (Mohs - 2/10) single-stage catalyzed urethane is harder than single-stage lacquer.
You’ll notice that the foam pad will pick up single stage paint colour i.e. on a black vehicle the foam pad will turn black, this is normal; it doesn’t mean you are removing all the paint. Using products that contain oils to provide a gloss is highly recommended
Some manufactures still use a single stage paint systems, especially on red white and black vehicles. Avoid (unless absolutely necessary) abrasive compounds and / or foam pads (use a Black (Finesse) pad for product application) use a chemical cleaner whenever possible (Zanio Fusion Paint Cleaner or Klasse All-In-One)
Single stage is usually less dense i.e. ‘soft paint’ and therefore easier to correct than clear coat, as a general rule use a more aggressive pad before moving up the scale in an abrasive polish IMO single stage paint has a richer gloss than a clear coat finish
When you use an abrasive product (polish) on a vehicle with single stage paint, you will notice paint transfer on your pads as they tend to oxidize more than clear coat systems so be prepared to clean and/or replace pads often; as a general rule use a more aggressive pad before moving up the scale to a an abrasive polish.
Apply an oil rich product to stabilize the paints binder system (3M Imperial Hand Glaze) apply a thick coat and allow to dwell for 12-24 hours before buffing, repeat as necessary until surface has an ‘oily’ sheen.
Single stage paint stains very easily, remove with a 1:1 distilled white vinegar/ distilled water solution, if this non-abrasive solution doesn’t remove them try a mild abrasive polish
The Optimum Hyper range of polishes, Menzerna Intensive Polish or Meguiar's M80, with its diminishing abrasives work very well on single stage paint, removing moderate defects and nicely refining the finish, the polishing oils will restore gloss and depth. Start with Lake County (LC) Orange (light) cutting foam you may also want to try an LC Green polishing foam pad.
For full richness and depth of colour and a richer look you cannot beat a single stage finish.
Last edited by TOGWT; 08-17-2012 at 06:21 AM. Reason: Single Stage Paint Care
#6
Not in MA anymore
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thanks a ton - very helpful as always!
Matt
Matt
#7
Race Car
Thread Starter
Here are the pics of the problem.
It's hard to discribe other than saying it has gone milky.
I showed it to a body guy and he says it oxidization.
When it is wet it looks great! I tryed Mothers Clay Bar and it made no difference.
I'm looking for a complete kit. No problem if I need to buy a buffer.
Thanks
Rod
It's hard to discribe other than saying it has gone milky.
I showed it to a body guy and he says it oxidization.
When it is wet it looks great! I tryed Mothers Clay Bar and it made no difference.
I'm looking for a complete kit. No problem if I need to buy a buffer.
Thanks
Rod
Last edited by 911 Rod; 02-20-2013 at 01:08 PM.
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#9
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Touch up the paint before you polish the car, the polishing will help blend it in.
You definitely have oxidation. If you have enough paint to work with you should be able to correct it and make it look as good or better than it looks wet.
One of the recent threads on Rennlist was showing results of a hand polish that might work, do a search.
You definitely have oxidation. If you have enough paint to work with you should be able to correct it and make it look as good or better than it looks wet.
One of the recent threads on Rennlist was showing results of a hand polish that might work, do a search.
#11
Race Car
Thread Starter
Touch up the paint before you polish the car, the polishing will help blend it in.
You definitely have oxidation. If you have enough paint to work with you should be able to correct it and make it look as good or better than it looks wet.
One of the recent threads on Rennlist was showing results of a hand polish that might work, do a search.
You definitely have oxidation. If you have enough paint to work with you should be able to correct it and make it look as good or better than it looks wet.
One of the recent threads on Rennlist was showing results of a hand polish that might work, do a search.
“Removal of Oxidized Paint” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...zed-paint.html
Now I need to find a local supplier.