Leather seats
#4
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: London,UK / Florida US State- Dazed & Confused
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Soften (to produce a Patina or soft hand) –
All finished leathers (inc. covered) have already been permanently preserved in the tanning process and do not need conditioning products to replace oils etc maintenance should comprise simple cleaning and re-hydrating and protection.
One of the biggest complaints from convertible owners is premature leather aging (polyethylene cracking) from perspiration stains; perspiration is mainly salt, which equates to a dried cracked leather covering ; the cause is usually from oils, either leather oil-based conditioners or body oils that have permeated the surface and are dissolving the finish.
This product is not a leather conditioner per se; Leather Master’s Vital (or as an alternative Aged Leather Revitalizer) penetrates and revitalizes leather (except Nubuck) It’s a water-based product used to soften, re-hydrate and restore the leather’s patina, by making the larger droplets into a microscopically fine emulsion it can be readily absorbed into the leather fibres. It can also be used when doing repair work to help soften the area.
Once the leather surfaces have been cleaned, apply the product to a clean micro fibre towel and wipe a very, very thin even layer on the surface. It is better to apply several thin layers than a heavy application. Allow each layer to dry and be absorbed
These products will revitalize older leather and restore and maintain resiliency to leather that has become brittle and will soften stiff leather; it isn't thick or full of oils like conditioners. In summary, an aqueous emulsion is readily absorbed into the fibres and provides lasting and effective lubrication without migration, while re-hydration leaves leather feeling silky soft and pliable - http://www.topoftheline.com
A leather protection product would be far more effective than a ‘conditioner’ Being water-based it helps hydration by balancing the necessary moisture level of all leather types (except Nubuck). Although it’s primary purpose is to act as a barrier between the leather surface and any soils that may settle on it.
See article "Basic Automotive Leather Care" DetailingWiki - http://detailingwiki.com/index.php5?...e_Leather_Care
All finished leathers (inc. covered) have already been permanently preserved in the tanning process and do not need conditioning products to replace oils etc maintenance should comprise simple cleaning and re-hydrating and protection.
One of the biggest complaints from convertible owners is premature leather aging (polyethylene cracking) from perspiration stains; perspiration is mainly salt, which equates to a dried cracked leather covering ; the cause is usually from oils, either leather oil-based conditioners or body oils that have permeated the surface and are dissolving the finish.
This product is not a leather conditioner per se; Leather Master’s Vital (or as an alternative Aged Leather Revitalizer) penetrates and revitalizes leather (except Nubuck) It’s a water-based product used to soften, re-hydrate and restore the leather’s patina, by making the larger droplets into a microscopically fine emulsion it can be readily absorbed into the leather fibres. It can also be used when doing repair work to help soften the area.
Once the leather surfaces have been cleaned, apply the product to a clean micro fibre towel and wipe a very, very thin even layer on the surface. It is better to apply several thin layers than a heavy application. Allow each layer to dry and be absorbed
These products will revitalize older leather and restore and maintain resiliency to leather that has become brittle and will soften stiff leather; it isn't thick or full of oils like conditioners. In summary, an aqueous emulsion is readily absorbed into the fibres and provides lasting and effective lubrication without migration, while re-hydration leaves leather feeling silky soft and pliable - http://www.topoftheline.com
A leather protection product would be far more effective than a ‘conditioner’ Being water-based it helps hydration by balancing the necessary moisture level of all leather types (except Nubuck). Although it’s primary purpose is to act as a barrier between the leather surface and any soils that may settle on it.
See article "Basic Automotive Leather Care" DetailingWiki - http://detailingwiki.com/index.php5?...e_Leather_Care
#6
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+3 for Leatherique, it's amazing stuff and works extremely well on Porsche Seats. Do a search on Rennlist, I've written a couple of how to's
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#9
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Leaving the car outside after applying the Rejuvenator Oil will do wonders getting it into the leathers pores. It also speeds up the process. If you do not have enough heat you can substitute with longevity (leave it on for one or two weeks).
I've also found that a second application makes a significant difference in remove any remaing contaminants, especially on light colored seats.
Good luck and post some before/after pics
#11
Instructor
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Here is the process that I usually follow for leatherique:
Vac the seats every well, down in the seams to make sure all the loose dirt is removed.
RO= REJUVINATOR OIL
PC= PRESTINE CLEAN
Wear some medical type gloves on your hands.
I used a spray bottle to apply RO to the seats. Spray it on very thick and work it in with your hands. Put trash can liner over the seat to move the car around.
Put the car outside in the hot sun with the windows up.
Leave it out for at least a full day in the hot sun. Check it about halfway thru the day, if the leather has sucked up most of the RO, then re-apply.
If you can leave the car out for 2 days then that is even better. You can put it back in at night.
Get a small bucket of warm water and a small hand towel. I prefer a white towel so you can see the dirt on the towel.
Spray the PC on one section at a time (section=seat back or bottom) work it in with your gloved hands.
Wring most of the warm water out of the hand towel and wipe down the section you just applied the PC to. Turn the towel over and wipe again. Keep wiping with a fresh side of the towel till no more dirt transfers from the seat.
Continue with each section of your seats.
So the key to using this product is having the car outside in the hot sun. That way the RO will lift all of the dirt out of the leather and to the surface.
Vac the seats every well, down in the seams to make sure all the loose dirt is removed.
RO= REJUVINATOR OIL
PC= PRESTINE CLEAN
Wear some medical type gloves on your hands.
I used a spray bottle to apply RO to the seats. Spray it on very thick and work it in with your hands. Put trash can liner over the seat to move the car around.
Put the car outside in the hot sun with the windows up.
Leave it out for at least a full day in the hot sun. Check it about halfway thru the day, if the leather has sucked up most of the RO, then re-apply.
If you can leave the car out for 2 days then that is even better. You can put it back in at night.
Get a small bucket of warm water and a small hand towel. I prefer a white towel so you can see the dirt on the towel.
Spray the PC on one section at a time (section=seat back or bottom) work it in with your gloved hands.
Wring most of the warm water out of the hand towel and wipe down the section you just applied the PC to. Turn the towel over and wipe again. Keep wiping with a fresh side of the towel till no more dirt transfers from the seat.
Continue with each section of your seats.
So the key to using this product is having the car outside in the hot sun. That way the RO will lift all of the dirt out of the leather and to the surface.
#12
I used products from www.liquidleather.com to redye seats for my Ferrari:
Their products are outstanding. No affiliation and so on.
--Matt
Their products are outstanding. No affiliation and so on.
--Matt
#13
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: London,UK / Florida US State- Dazed & Confused
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I'm confused how this system works,
"That is the design of the formula for Prestine Clean. It removes just the dirt and not the Rejuvinator Oil. Never use a cleaner first since that will emulsify the dirt and drive it into the leather".
Perhaps someone could enlighten me how the dirt migrates to the surface but the oil permeate the leather?
"That is the design of the formula for Prestine Clean. It removes just the dirt and not the Rejuvinator Oil. Never use a cleaner first since that will emulsify the dirt and drive it into the leather".
Perhaps someone could enlighten me how the dirt migrates to the surface but the oil permeate the leather?
#14
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Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'm confused how this system works,
"That is the design of the formula for Prestine Clean. It removes just the dirt and not the Rejuvinator Oil. Never use a cleaner first since that will emulsify the dirt and drive it into the leather".
Perhaps someone could enlighten me how the dirt migrates to the surface but the oil permeate the leather?
"That is the design of the formula for Prestine Clean. It removes just the dirt and not the Rejuvinator Oil. Never use a cleaner first since that will emulsify the dirt and drive it into the leather".
Perhaps someone could enlighten me how the dirt migrates to the surface but the oil permeate the leather?
Assuming yes let me see if I can describe my observations.
After you have thoroughly vacuumed the leather you should be left with a surface which has surface contaminants caused by the oils in your skin, dirt, motor oils, sun tan lotion etc. This migrates into the cracks of the leather and fills the cracks. Left unattended the cracks will increase in side and eventually the dirt will wear through the protective coating. Rejuvenator oil will basically soften up this dirt/oil on the surface of the leather making it easier to remove. After several hours of sitting in the hot sun you are left with a very tacky surface which is extremely difficult to run a Microfiber over. Prestine Clean sprayed on the Microfiber will act like a lubricant and will remove the dirt/oils and extra Rejuvenator oil. What is left is original leather and if you're lucky cracks haven't formed underneath the dirt/oil.
The first application doesn't always soften up the leather and condition as much as you may want and often a second application is needed to actually penetrate the leather and condition it.
I hope that makes sense.
Last edited by Marine Blue; 06-23-2008 at 01:50 PM.