tyro

My 944 has a big issue with water left to dry on its paint.

I'm not sure of the quality of the paint (previous owner had it painted at some point), but I don't think that it has a clear coat.

If the car has any water from rain or hose left on it, the beads of water dry and leave spots - like little faded spots of paint.

Machine polish with 3M microfinishing compound takes them out.

I'm curious if there is a product that may help this situation, it's rather frustrating if the car gets left outside during a brief rain shower and the sun returns shortly thereafter..

Thanks

insite

wax should do it. what kind are you using and how often are you using it?

tyro

Probably something I'd get laughed at for using..dare I use the M word around here?

I think it's meguiar's deep crystal carnauba.

Doesn't matter how new the wax, water beads up and manages to soak in.

Anthony Orosco

When you polish the car do you pull paint from it, as in does your polishing pad come away with color on the pad? If so then you have single stage paint.

If you are pulling no color then you have a clear coat but from your description I highly doubt that BUT on the same note I can't see why after being repainted they would paint it as a single stage??

So let me know if you're pulling color or not.

Also, after you do a polishing do you use a wax or sealant on the paint? When you polish do you just polish certain areas or all painted surfaces? I ask this because those spots are usually because of chalky paint (oxidation) which needs to be removed.

Anthony

tyro

Correct, I get the car's color on the pad.

After polish, I do place a coat of wax on the car. The spots only appear on the flat surfaces where the water can sit.

It's not chalky to the touch, just as smooth as any other part of the car's finish.

The hood was most of the problem the first time, and that came right out, so that was the only area I hit with the machine.

I suspect a cheap paint job - would a higher quality wax or sealer make any difference?

tyro

Here's a photo

tyro

Last night I went over the affected areas again with the polisher and 3M compound.

I was able to remove the spots, and once again the pad was the car's color.

Dropped a coat of Griot's best-of-show on it - is there anything else I can apply that may help the situation (don't say new paint)?

Anthony Orosco

If they can be removed and don't reappear after a few days then they should be removed for good.

If they reappear every time it gets wet then you may need to switch waxes, perhaps use a sealant first and then a wax. Collinite makes some very durable paste waxes, you can find them at many boat stores or do an on-line search.

Also, make sure that these are not the same waterspots reappearing, in other words when the spots come back are the same spots you thought you had removed with the polish?

Let me know,
Anthony

tyro

The spots do not re-appear, only appear when water is allowed to dry on the car - in beads as it is waxed - hence the spots.

Perhaps it was the lack of a decent product, allowing water to penetrate into the paint?

I'm thinking a sealant may be the way to go - just as you said.

Which Collinite product(s) would you recommend?

Anthony Orosco

Sorry for the late reply.

Some sealants on single stage paints can be tricky and the two that I know which work well is Zaino's Clear Seal and Optimum's OptiSeal. You can then apply a carnauba over them after they have cured.

In general carnauba waxes are "hydrophobic" meaning that they repel water which is what causes water beading.....well that and surface tension.....but anyways what you should try and do is get water off of your paint as soon as possible, especially if it is tap water from sprinklers and when washing with untreated water.

Sealants on the other hand tend to sheet water off the car more so than bead up and many pros believe this is ideal because there then are no beads left to dry and etch into the paint. It's a debate which continues to go on so what many pros do is apply both, a sealant and then a wax.

Of the Collinite waxes I am told that the "Insulator" is the most durable of them
but it can be difficult to work with also.....the key is super thin layers.

Anthony