Anthony Orosco

In a nutshell...."Yep".

First I'm not certain if Rejex has any cleaning properties to it but if so then you're removing your 3M IHG. So that first step would then be of no benefit.

Also, many products, such as sealants, have a difficult time bonding properly over oily glazes. If you enjoy the Rejex I would suggest polishing the paint with a product like Menzerna FPII or Optimum Polish (I recommend these alot because they are what I use) and then using the Rejex.

The Poli-Seal is a very nice product that continues to impress me each time I use it. The workability of it's great, it's non-dusting and provides around 2 to 3 months protection.

I made mention of Menzerna FPII and that I use it alot, especially on dark colors, but this has now been pretty much replaced with the introduction of Poli-Seal. When I first started testing Poli-Seal for Optimum Technologies I thought it was an OK product so myself and another local detailer, Ron H., gave David at Optimum some suggestions to make it more user friendly and he tweaked it to where it's now perfect. It was originally designed for retail use but professional detailers are all over it.

It works nice by hand but if you have a Cyclo or a PC it can really produce some fine work on your paint.....it's not a magic bullet, but it's the best one-step product I have used to date.

Hope that helps,
Anthony

AndyK

That helps!! Thanks Anthony!

One more question - I do have a PC. What would yield the best results with Poli-Seal?

Wash car with Dawn
Apply Poli Seal by hand
Remove using PC and microfiber bonnet over a lambswool pad?

I never used the PC to remove wax because I never know how often to brush off the pad, or change to a fresh pad with all the build-up!?


Thanks again!

Keithr726

What is the best polymer wax under $15?

Monique

I've tried NXT and Rejex.. on DD cars only. My Porker gets much better stuff.

IMO, Rejex is very poor in terms of results compared with NXT. Rejex is also intolerant of any sun during the application..

I now use the remainder of my Rejex on the wheels of my DD cars.

Daniel Dudley

When I went to the Meguiers Booth at the street rod nats this year, I asked about NXT.

The man sold me Medallion instead. Would I know the difference ? I assume he did, and he steered me right away from what their advertising dept. had me seeking. Go figure.

Anthony Orosco

You will get better results applying the PoliSeal by the PC. Use a fine finishing pad and just work the PoliSeal in for several minutes then buff the area with a plush microfiber towel.

Anthony

mwc951

Anthony......

I wish I would have listened to you the first time.
At least I'm only out $15 for NXT & the time it took
to apply it.

cdodkin

mmmmmm, mwc951 - you gotta make your own call - do what works for you

Ask 50 detailers which wax you should use, you'll probably get at least 25 answers.

It's more about the prep and techniques than the products - but that's not what people want to hear.

mwc951

I just used Poly-seal on my daily driver, the application & results were far superior to the NXT I put on my P-car.

Anthony Orosco

The PoliSeal is some awesome stuff. There are lots of one step products out there so PoliSeal is not new in that category but it does strike a home run for having true correction properties PLUS fine polishing and sealing with around 2 to 3 months worth of durability.

So far it doesn't seem to leave any residue behind or turn any trim white and my buddy Ron buffed out his work vans windshield to demonstrate to a person how clear it buffs out. On his way home it rained and he said he didn't need any wipers, water just went right off the glass. I thought it wouldn't work well on glass but it seems to do OK.

It also can be used on plastics and convertible top windows....again very versatile product. It has been compared to Klasse AIO but has far better correction properties and last twice as long.

Anthony

JW911

I hear a lot of talk about how NXT will last only a very short time. Well I have the opposite experience. I switched to NXT after having bad experience with short lived carnuaba wax (gold class). I wash my car weekly, and NXT lasts a good 3 months. Car is garaged but driven lots of miles in sun, rain, etc.

QKENUFF

I just bumped into this thread and am somewhat dissapointed to read the possible negative effects of NXT. I have been using NXT for a couple of years on all four of my cars, and apply it fairly often. I have the time, and financial resoruces to afford a better product, and don't mind some additional work, but I guess I should start over with a new product line since long term quality is desired, and I don't want to do any harm.

Step 1. Dawn and dry?
Step 2. ????? Use_________?
Step 3. ???? Use__________?
Re-apply step ___? every 2 months or so,.....and...
Use ?_________? Car wash as a weekly wash, and _________ as detailing spray?

Just tell me what to buy, and what to do, and I'll do it.

Thanks in advance.

Bob

TOGWT

Product Application Sequence:
1.Car wash concentrate-
2.Detailer’s clay-
Machine polish abrasion choice is dependant upon condition of paint surface
3.Machine polish 1-
4.Machine polish 2-
5.Machine polish 3-
6.Chemical cleaner- 1:1 solution Distilled water / Isopropyl Alcohol
9. Glaze – (See note 3)
10. (LSP) Polymer sealant or Carnauba wax-
11. Quick detailer (QD) or Booster spray-

Ask 25 detailer's to fill in a produt that is the 'best' and you'll get at least 20 different answers

Notes:
1.As long as you have an understanding of what each step does you can alter the sequence or omit steps in the sequence to suit paints condition / needs
2.A polish that contains oils should be cleaned with a 1:1 solution of Isopropyl alcohol / distilled water before the application of a polymer (oils will not effect the setting-up of a Carnauba wax)
3.You cannot apply a polymer over a Glaze or a Carnauba wax due to bonding incompatibility
4.Carnauba wax will bond to a cross-linked polymer; conversely if a polymer is applied on top of Carnauba wax the polymer cross-linking / bonding may be compromised.
5.Although I would not state categorically that a product that is formulated with oils will abort the cross-linking or bonding process of a polymer just that the process may not be as complete, and its strength and durability may be adversely affected

Best wax or Sealant:
‘Best’ is too subjective to quantify i.e. best at what? No one sealant / wax can be best at everything as many compromises are made in there formulation. While its true many of the chemicals used in the formulation of car care products are the same (or at least very similar) Having used a variety of different products field testing shows that not all have the same durability, some simply out perform others in many categories and react differently when applied to different paint types, colours, or varied paint surface conditions. Ultimately the best wax or sealant will prove to be the one that best meets its user's objectives.

If a product is not working for you experiment until you find one that’s suitable for your needs. There is no one product that can produce all of the properties for an optically perfect shine, however; for high surface gloss and surface reflectance-a polymer sealant, which also provides durability. Detailing enthusiasts consider shine as only one attribute of a protective wax or sealant. They are equally concerned with; ease of application, resistance to abrasion, atmospheric contamination and weathering.

a) For depth of shine and a ‘wet-look’ - Carnauba wax (also provides a sacrificial and easily renewable barrier against airborne contaminants.
b) For an optically perfect shine, clarity, long term durability and protection apply a polymer sealant (Zaino Z2PRO™ + ZFX™ Flash Cure Accelerator Additive) to a carefully prepared level, clean paint surface and add a Carnauba wax or Zaino Z-8™ Grand Finale Spray Seal as a (LSP) last step product.
c) The aesthetics of a vehicle appearance is very subjective to say the least, the only best wax or sealant that really matters is what looks 'best' to you.
d) The final result can only be as good as the surface it’s applied to. It really is all dependants upon; 85% preparation, 5% product, 7% application method and the balance is in the ‘guy’ of the beholder. (A detailer’s skill level is also extremely important)

elbeee964

Anthony- (& TOGWT, too -- feel free to chime in!)

Your Car Care posts have been great. (Both of you!)

My question: do you recommend a pad prep spray for Optimum Polish & Poly-Seal? (something like XMT Polishing Pad Conditioner)
Or just go 'dry'?

I was ordering up a few products based off some of your suggestions:
PC
Wolfgang Orange & White pads
Optimum Polish
Optimum Poly-Seal
spray-on OCW...

FWIW, this is for a red '93 911 and will be my first detailing work beyond paint chip repairing. (The hood's a tad road rashed and I've just got done patching the obvious chips with touch-up paint, Uni-grit stone, & Meguires Scratch X. It's about to get a clear bra treatment -- hence the detail/polishing desire!)

Thanks ahead of time!

Anthony Orosco

I have been using Optimum polishes and compounds before their release and never once used any type of pad prep....in my opinion that's a bunch of bunk crap.

Even when using Hi-Temp and Menzerna I never prepped the pad with any spray solution. So save that money and if you feel you need to prep the pad then use the product itself. Spread on the pad a very thin layer of product and go about your application.

Anthony