drcollie

I'm not familiar with those products. I will say that in general, keep it simple on leather. There is always someone out there to sell you a container of magic snake oil for your leather, in reality you just need to keep the hides clean, then 3 or 4 times a year after one of those cleanings do follow up with a decent conditioner.

I even make my own cleaner, costs about 15 cents a spray bottle. No fancy name or label, just water, white vinegar and a single pump of liquid hand soap......

IRunalot

I use CarPro Leather 2.0 especially on the bolsters as a sacrificial layer. It will wear off in a month with the abrasion from your clothing. At that time, I us Leatherique to clean and hydrate the leather then reseal it with CarPro 2.0

The CarPro and Geyon products are both similar, but the Colourlock Leather Shield is also a good product, but I prefer the others two for protection. Leather Shield is a cream where the other two are more of a “Ceramic Coating” for leather. I have tried all of them over the past 5 years and keep a bottle of CarPro Leather on hand at all times. I touch up the bolsters, arm rest and between full interior details.

I will use the Colourlock Leather cleaner on the seats between the Leatherique treatments for touch up. I actually keep some in the glove box.

One thing you will notice about the CarPro and Gyeon products is that the initial application smells but will pass in a day. You can actually feel a layer of coating very similar to the coating that is placed on new leather. All new leather in cars has a clear coating for protection that usually wears out in 2-4 years.

drcollie

The leathers used in cars are what we in the trade call "FInished" leathers, which means they are painted. Upgraded leathers are semi-Anilines, which are a hybrid leather that is first dyed, then finished with a pigmented top coat (which is paint) though the final color coat is ligher than in a Finished leather. When you upgrade in a Porsche to "Club Leather" you are getting a semi-aniline for example. Pure Anilines, the highest levels of hides and most natural/exotic are not used in vehicle interiors as they fade with sun exposure and are easily stained as well. Ford made the mistake of putting in Pure Aniline Hides in their King Ranch trucks several years ago and they looked great when new but became a disaster for them as they aged.

I do not think the leathers are clear-coated, I see no evidence of that, it's just paint. Your cleaning / conditioning routine is all about keeping the leather clean and moisturized, nothing more complex than that. All paint is sacrificial, it wears away with time and friction. You can delay that wear by cleaning and conditioning. Additionally. heavy soiling and body oils will degrade the tannins in the leather, causing it to crack. In a car, you care going to see this occur on the steering wheel and manual transmission shift *****. Wipe those down frequently with cleaner, you will almost always see dirt on a white rag when you do.

I've been to many factories and tanneries around the world and in the leather business for what seems like forever - when discussing leather care with the businesses that actually produce the hides, they all say "Just use water and maybe a little soap, that's all you need to clean, then some moisturizer". It's a simple product - dead animal skin - treated to not rot - then colorized. It's fully biodegradable which is really good for the planet, and been around as long as humans walked the earth. If you want to use exotic products on your hides they are probably not going to hurt anything and if you feel you are getting value for your money, then good for you. Me? I'm a soap and water guy (not too much soap) and basic leather conditioners.

IRunalot

You are correct sir, I used the wrong terminology as far as the coating on new leather..