When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 1988 Carerra. The car has been sitting inside for the last 6-7 years, rarely driven until the last few months. I had it serviced last week and had all mechanicals addressed, all good to go now! Drives great... onto the appearance side of things. The paint has some scratches in the paint. I have polished some cars before, but they have had a clear coat, which from reading on here, I have surmised there is no clear on an 88 in Guards Red.
So my question: With no clear, what do I need to do differently as I try and take out some of the imperfections? I don’t think the paint has been polished very many times, so I’m not very concerned about the thickness of the paint (something I’ve read on a few posts). Pictures are posted below, hard to see the scratches...
Also, any suggestions for a place that does interiors and convertible tops in the Central Valley of California (Fresno area) or Central Coast area (San Luis Obispo)? The top needs to be replaced, and possible the carpets on the interior. Thanks in advance,
The approach for single stage paint is the same as a clear coat. Guards red is one of the easiest paints to transform and you can also touch it up very easily. I would recommend touching up scratches and chips prior to polishing, it will blend better.
What supplies do you have? Going by machine or hand? Don't overthink it, the only real difference is you will have some color transfer onto your pads from the single stage but other than that polish away.
If you don't pay a professional, you'll need to do a complete job yourself. There's a lot of water etching that needs to come out.
Easy outline:
1. Use two bucket method and use copious amounts of Griots Brilliant shine. While washing, use a Meguiars clay bar and clay the car. After washing an area, put more soap on as the lubricant to clay it.
2. Dry the car using waffle weave towels.
3. Get a Dr. Color Chip small kit for your color and fix the scratches and chips. Let dry for an hour before the next step.
4. Using a Meguiars 6" orbital and an orange pad, and Griots 3 in 1 wax, go over a 1/4 of the car, then wait for the wax to dry then buff off with a real good, soft, VERY clean microfiber towels. Repeat for the whole car.
5. Stand back and be amazed!
If this doesn't take out all the swirls/imperfections, recommend you pay a pro.
Last edited by sasilverbullet; 07-16-2019 at 01:40 PM.
Reason: fixed typo
the meguiars machine isn't going to be strong enough
the orange pad is a light cutting pad, so it wont finish down well enough
the 3n1 polish/wax combo product is substandard as it cannot cut well enough, finish down properly, nor protect well enough (the compound, polish, wax doesnt know what stage its in, its silly to think you are getting true results using this product) Any "AIO - all in one" product will contain a lot of fillers in it.
The results from the above process will get the paint work glossier, but it wont be done anywhere near pro level quality. Buying the machine, pads, product, you will be into it for a few hundred all said and done. And you still have to do it over the next 10-15 hours. Whats it worth to you?
The water spotting needs to be cut and leveled. Then you need to refine the finish with a 2nd polish step, then you need to protect it. You CANNOT get proper results from a "one product" type of system
Same goes for a wash and coat or wash and wax. Its impossible for the wax and wax product to clean first, then protect. Its either a cleaner or a protectant, but not both.
the meguiars machine isn't going to be strong enough
the orange pad is a light cutting pad, so it wont finish down well enough
the 3n1 polish/wax combo product is substandard as it cannot cut well enough, finish down properly, nor protect well enough (the compound, polish, wax doesnt know what stage its in, its silly to think you are getting true results using this product) Any "AIO - all in one" product will contain a lot of fillers in it.
The results from the above process will get the paint work glossier, but it wont be done anywhere near pro level quality. Buying the machine, pads, product, you will be into it for a few hundred all said and done. And you still have to do it over the next 10-15 hours. Whats it worth to you?
The water spotting needs to be cut and leveled. Then you need to refine the finish with a 2nd polish step, then you need to protect it. You CANNOT get proper results from a "one product" type of system
Same goes for a wash and coat or wash and wax. Its impossible for the wax and wax product to clean first, then protect. Its either a cleaner or a protectant, but not both.
I don't disagree with what you're saying, just remember most of us can't afford someone like you and doing what I said will probably get him 80-90% there, not a concours winner, but most Porsche drivers I know just want it to look good and be protected.
I'll be reading your posts as I want to glean what I can from the experts!
I don't disagree with what you're saying, just remember most of us can't afford someone like you and doing what I said will probably get him 80-90% there, not a concours winner, but most Porsche drivers I know just want it to look good and be protected.
I'll be reading your posts as I want to glean what I can from the experts!
That is a good point.
Getting it glossier would be the end result, but not "paint correction" levels by any means. That was my point.
The DIY guy not looking for perfect, what you mentioned will work just fine
07-08-2019, 01:37 AM
1988 Carerra Polishing
