Replace spark plugs on a 2011 Turbo
04-11-2016, 02:45 PM
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Replace spark plugs on a 2011 Turbo
First off - I'd suggest paying for membership in AllData. They have a DIY program that's reasonably priced. With a discount I'm paying about $15 for a years access.
AllData appears to have taken the Porsche mechanic's info source (PWIWS?) and written up the procedures, and used the Porsche illustrations. In the case of the Turbo plugs - there are a few things I did differently that made things go a bit easier.
AllData suggests that the trim-cover, coil and plug that is located under the engine torque strut on the starboard side (passenger in the US) can be removed without moving the torque strut. Baloney. I got the trim cover off, but there was no way to get a wrench on the coil nut, and I could see there would be no way to get the coil out even if I did get the nut off.
Just remove the bolt on the engine side, loosen the one on the chassis side, and swing the torque-strut up and out of the way. Don't waste an hour trying to do it the AllData way. It takes a 16mm wrench or socket to loosen the nuts on the torque strut. They are not awfully tight (aluminum bolts actually.) It takes about 60 seconds to move it out of the way, and avoids the pain of trying to do the job with the strut in place.
DO put rags between the edge of the head and the inner fender-wall. Stuff it full of rags (I used some old microfiber towels.) This might prevent you having to order a replacement coil-nut (Porsche PN 94810514600) when one decides to jump out of your fingers and disappear down the gap. These bolts are reverse Torx (aka "star" pattern.) For several of them there is no way to get a socket on them to loosen/tighten them up. For those ones (the two fronts and the two rear on both sides), I'd suggest using a good quality 10mm 12-point box wrench. It almost fits - and fits well enough to loosen/tighten them. These are also aluminum bolts, so when they go away a magnet is not going to capture them, and they aren't a high torque item. Snug is the word on these.
The screws that go into the coil bolts - used to hold the trim covers on - also can be a PITA to get to. They're internal torx, and a short angle torx wrench would be the hot setup. Baring that - you might try as I did, and find a ball-end allen wrench that fits well enough.
The rear plugs are a bitch to get to. Both of them require using both a 6" and 3" extension. The starboard side one needs a wobble joint between the extensions and the plug wrench to make the turn into the hole.
The plugs have smooth ceramics. This means they tend to slip out of the plug wrench, even when the foam-insert is in good shape. A bit of blue painters tape applied to the inside of the plug wrench helps keep the plugs in the wrench.
Don't overtorque the plugs. Bosch spec's 28Nm, Porsche 30Nm. Shoot for 29Nm. These are long-thread plugs going into aluminum heads. NO antiseize should be used. It would result in over torqueing the plugs and as it hardens up, make them more difficult to remove in the future.
The Bosch plugs come pre-gapped. No need to tweak them (and since the center electrode is really a tiny platinum one - you're likely to damage them if you try to.)
I've uploaded 3 attachments:
The first shows the general assembly after the trim covers are removed. PN-3 is the coil-bolt that wants to jump to never-never land.
The second shows using a standard ratchet and torx socket to remove PN-3. HA! That is not happening on several cylinders.
The third shows coil removal on cylinder-8 (port side - ie - drivers side US - rear plug.) There is a LARGE cable in the way on that cylinder - it's the main battery cable. It is not easily moveable. You will have to do some contortions to get that coil out, and get the plug out and in. It's doable - it just seems like it's impossible.
IMO - It appears Porsche installed the plugs/coils/trim-covers before installing the engine in the truck. I can understand why.
AllData appears to have taken the Porsche mechanic's info source (PWIWS?) and written up the procedures, and used the Porsche illustrations. In the case of the Turbo plugs - there are a few things I did differently that made things go a bit easier.
AllData suggests that the trim-cover, coil and plug that is located under the engine torque strut on the starboard side (passenger in the US) can be removed without moving the torque strut. Baloney. I got the trim cover off, but there was no way to get a wrench on the coil nut, and I could see there would be no way to get the coil out even if I did get the nut off.
Just remove the bolt on the engine side, loosen the one on the chassis side, and swing the torque-strut up and out of the way. Don't waste an hour trying to do it the AllData way. It takes a 16mm wrench or socket to loosen the nuts on the torque strut. They are not awfully tight (aluminum bolts actually.) It takes about 60 seconds to move it out of the way, and avoids the pain of trying to do the job with the strut in place.
DO put rags between the edge of the head and the inner fender-wall. Stuff it full of rags (I used some old microfiber towels.) This might prevent you having to order a replacement coil-nut (Porsche PN 94810514600) when one decides to jump out of your fingers and disappear down the gap. These bolts are reverse Torx (aka "star" pattern.) For several of them there is no way to get a socket on them to loosen/tighten them up. For those ones (the two fronts and the two rear on both sides), I'd suggest using a good quality 10mm 12-point box wrench. It almost fits - and fits well enough to loosen/tighten them. These are also aluminum bolts, so when they go away a magnet is not going to capture them, and they aren't a high torque item. Snug is the word on these.
The screws that go into the coil bolts - used to hold the trim covers on - also can be a PITA to get to. They're internal torx, and a short angle torx wrench would be the hot setup. Baring that - you might try as I did, and find a ball-end allen wrench that fits well enough.
The rear plugs are a bitch to get to. Both of them require using both a 6" and 3" extension. The starboard side one needs a wobble joint between the extensions and the plug wrench to make the turn into the hole.
The plugs have smooth ceramics. This means they tend to slip out of the plug wrench, even when the foam-insert is in good shape. A bit of blue painters tape applied to the inside of the plug wrench helps keep the plugs in the wrench.
Don't overtorque the plugs. Bosch spec's 28Nm, Porsche 30Nm. Shoot for 29Nm. These are long-thread plugs going into aluminum heads. NO antiseize should be used. It would result in over torqueing the plugs and as it hardens up, make them more difficult to remove in the future.
The Bosch plugs come pre-gapped. No need to tweak them (and since the center electrode is really a tiny platinum one - you're likely to damage them if you try to.)
I've uploaded 3 attachments:
The first shows the general assembly after the trim covers are removed. PN-3 is the coil-bolt that wants to jump to never-never land.
The second shows using a standard ratchet and torx socket to remove PN-3. HA! That is not happening on several cylinders.
The third shows coil removal on cylinder-8 (port side - ie - drivers side US - rear plug.) There is a LARGE cable in the way on that cylinder - it's the main battery cable. It is not easily moveable. You will have to do some contortions to get that coil out, and get the plug out and in. It's doable - it just seems like it's impossible.
IMO - It appears Porsche installed the plugs/coils/trim-covers before installing the engine in the truck. I can understand why.
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Forscheguy (10-11-2022)
