Battery Compartment Access
01-13-2019, 04:24 AM
#31
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Can we get some clarification on the need to do battery registration?
The mechanic at the Porsche dealership was very adamant about it having to be done.
Just installed a Duralast AGM and things seem fine so far, but why was the mechanic so adamant about doing this?
The mechanic at the Porsche dealership was very adamant about it having to be done.
Just installed a Duralast AGM and things seem fine so far, but why was the mechanic so adamant about doing this?
01-17-2019, 07:02 PM
#34
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The mechanic is following directions for something he's supposed to do as the manual states programming after a battery change is a necessary process.
01-19-2019, 06:23 PM
#35
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Just wanted to say thanks for this thread! Not sure I would have figured it all out myself. Wasn’t too difficult except for that freaking cover and those damned spring clips! The back two are difficult to pop. And the cover is tough to get put without a little effort as the carpet is in the way.
My guess is the Porsche procedure is to pull the seat completely and just reset the resulting airbag light.
Oh and as for coding the battery, I did a swap in my 991 a year ago and didn’t code and have had no issues.
My guess is the Porsche procedure is to pull the seat completely and just reset the resulting airbag light.
Oh and as for coding the battery, I did a swap in my 991 a year ago and didn’t code and have had no issues.
01-29-2019, 12:34 AM
#36
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My 2014 Cayenne S needs a battery, I've fallen down this rabbit hole. My local dealer is quite specific (both service advisor and head mechanic) that if I do not use only a Porsche OEM Austrian battery, with the serial number and part number, AND the device that detects the battery installed, that nasty things will happen. I will not be able to register the new battery (I found a good Interstate AGM for $240) AND that many features on the car will not work. The smart charging function will not work (the alternator will put full charge voltage across the AGM even if it doesn't need it) and the automatic start/stop function will fail due to erroneous voltage readings within the ECM/power system.
BTW I tried to use a Snap-On OBD Ethos system to find the registration within the system today, and no luck. Seems like it only works with a Porsche OBD reader?
I'm finding this whole thing to be rather crazy. First Porsche puts a battery under a seat that needs 2 1/2 hours of labor (Porsche) or a minimum one hour (local shop) to remove/replace battery. Second, the OEM battery is no way near as good of a battery as the ones on the market (Interstate will guarantee the AGM for 3 years, expect 8-10 years service life; Porsche 2 year limited guarantee, 5 year service life). Third, APPARENTLY, the system is designed to force an owner to buy OEM just to keep car legal within extended warranty AND to work many electronic systems.
Oh, did I mention about $850 for Porsche to r/r the battery?
So can anyone really tell me what is true and what is false. Will a "regular" battery work for other than just starting the car? Is registration of a new battery required? Will the lack of a OEM battery detect reading (it was there in the Snap-On system, apparently it is real) cause failures and faults?
BTW I tried to use a Snap-On OBD Ethos system to find the registration within the system today, and no luck. Seems like it only works with a Porsche OBD reader?
I'm finding this whole thing to be rather crazy. First Porsche puts a battery under a seat that needs 2 1/2 hours of labor (Porsche) or a minimum one hour (local shop) to remove/replace battery. Second, the OEM battery is no way near as good of a battery as the ones on the market (Interstate will guarantee the AGM for 3 years, expect 8-10 years service life; Porsche 2 year limited guarantee, 5 year service life). Third, APPARENTLY, the system is designed to force an owner to buy OEM just to keep car legal within extended warranty AND to work many electronic systems.
Oh, did I mention about $850 for Porsche to r/r the battery?
So can anyone really tell me what is true and what is false. Will a "regular" battery work for other than just starting the car? Is registration of a new battery required? Will the lack of a OEM battery detect reading (it was there in the Snap-On system, apparently it is real) cause failures and faults?
01-30-2019, 01:21 AM
#37
The factory battery is actually fine(replaced mine after 8 years and it was still going strong), they are just selling it for a crack pipe price. 2.5 hours labor is a total joke. Took me maybe 45 minutes going slow the first time doing it.
Replaced mine with a platinum AGM from Advance a few months ago. All the electronics work fine, zero faults or failures yet. Plenty of people on here using aftermarket batteries, haven't heard of a single reported issue yet.
Replaced mine with a platinum AGM from Advance a few months ago. All the electronics work fine, zero faults or failures yet. Plenty of people on here using aftermarket batteries, haven't heard of a single reported issue yet.
01-30-2019, 04:07 PM
#38
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Folks, I'm closing this thread now - commentary such as above really should be done in the normal Cayenne forum, not here. Here is where people come for specific instructions. Chatting about dealer policies and lies they tell you are better shared with everyone over in the main forum. More eyes will see it on the main forum, and it will bring threads such as the one this DIY was made from back to the top - meaning they are still valuable.
12-25-2019, 01:28 PM
#39
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Procedures for accessing the battery compartment for a 958 Cayenne ( 2011 2012 2013 2014 ). They are different that the earlier Cayenne models!
Tools:
- Small flat head screw driver to remove 4 bolt cover trim pieces
- Triple square bit 3/8 drive size 10 and 3/8 ratchet
- Torx bit size 25 and ¼ ratchet
- Sharp box cutter or knife
- 10 mm combination wrench for the battery terminals
- 10 mm socket with extension for hold down corner and side clamps
1. Familiarize yourself with the driver seat’s wiring harness underneath. You will need to manage it carefully when it is time to tilt the entire seat assembly backwards.
2. Run the driver’s seat full forward and the back rest full forward. This is important in a few steps.
3. Using a small bladed screw driver remove the two rear bolt cover/trim pieces. Press the end in gently and it will release exposing the size 10 triple square headed bolts.
4. Using the size 10 triple square bit, remove the two bolts.
5. Run the driver’s seat full to the rear and do not adjust the back rest which should be full forward.
6. Using a small bladed screw driver remove the two front bolt cover/trim pieces. Press the end in firmly and it will release exposing the size 10 triple square headed bolts.
7. Using the size 10 triple square bit, remove the two bolts. Take care that you control the tilting of the entire seat as it could place undue strain on the wiring harness. The seat back will rest against the bench of the back seat. If you think there is too much strain, the harness is tied into the deck with a friction fit. Simply grab it and move it back and forth while lifting and it will release. You still need to be careful because there is no protection for the harness connectors now. Even if you disconnect the three harness connectors, the seat belt is still attached.
8. You will see a large piece of plastic trim that outlines the access to the battery compartment. If this is the first time that the compartment will be accessed, you will find that sections of carpet underneath the plastic have been precut. You will need to release the almost cut through sections by either stressing the carpet a bit or use the box cutter. I used both, but be very careful with the box cutter as there are wires running underneath.
9. With the seat tilted back and the carpet lifted, the battery cover is now visible.
10. Release the spring clamps at each corner.
11. To remove the cover, you will need to reach underneath the cover in the back and lift it over the case so that it can slide backwards a bit. Doing so will allow the front of the cover to clear a metal lip.
12. If I were to remove the battery, I would remove all jewelry, remove the negative ground cable first, followed by the positive cable. If I have a 12volt source hooked up to retain the cars memory settings, I would wrap the end of the positive terminal with plastic to prevent a short should the positive terminal come in contact with any grounded surface. As to a 12volt source, I would not use a battery charger because it is NOT a power supply. I bought a 12 volt supply OBD2 cable off Amazon and will use it when required. However, the owner's manual has the car reset procedure listed and it's not complicated at all.
13. With the cover removed, you can see the front left corner hold down clamp and the main hold down clamp also on the left side.
13a. Use 10mm socket to remove both corner clamp and side clamp. The side clamp looks like a rod but is a 10mm bolt.
14. To lift the battery out, you may need a helper to lift the seat but again watch out of the wiring harness. Here, you might have to disconnect the three harness connectors. Be careful. One of them is airbag related. It appears that it is best to lift the front of the battery out first and then slide the whole battery out. Yep, it's heavy. When installing the replacement battery, if there are safety caps on the terminal, leave them on until you have the battery safely in its compartment and clamped back down.
15. Once installed, you are good to go to reinstall the clamps, the positive cable followed by the negative cable and backwards through the procedures.
16. Based on unverified information (PWIS or published shop manual) I believe that the seat mounting bolts are at 37 ftlbs. I saw no loctite remainder but blue loctite would not hurt anything as I suspect this area won't be accessed except every 4-8 years.
Tools:
- Small flat head screw driver to remove 4 bolt cover trim pieces
- Triple square bit 3/8 drive size 10 and 3/8 ratchet
- Torx bit size 25 and ¼ ratchet
- Sharp box cutter or knife
- 10 mm combination wrench for the battery terminals
- 10 mm socket with extension for hold down corner and side clamps
1. Familiarize yourself with the driver seat’s wiring harness underneath. You will need to manage it carefully when it is time to tilt the entire seat assembly backwards.
2. Run the driver’s seat full forward and the back rest full forward. This is important in a few steps.
3. Using a small bladed screw driver remove the two rear bolt cover/trim pieces. Press the end in gently and it will release exposing the size 10 triple square headed bolts.
4. Using the size 10 triple square bit, remove the two bolts.
5. Run the driver’s seat full to the rear and do not adjust the back rest which should be full forward.
6. Using a small bladed screw driver remove the two front bolt cover/trim pieces. Press the end in firmly and it will release exposing the size 10 triple square headed bolts.
7. Using the size 10 triple square bit, remove the two bolts. Take care that you control the tilting of the entire seat as it could place undue strain on the wiring harness. The seat back will rest against the bench of the back seat. If you think there is too much strain, the harness is tied into the deck with a friction fit. Simply grab it and move it back and forth while lifting and it will release. You still need to be careful because there is no protection for the harness connectors now. Even if you disconnect the three harness connectors, the seat belt is still attached.
8. You will see a large piece of plastic trim that outlines the access to the battery compartment. If this is the first time that the compartment will be accessed, you will find that sections of carpet underneath the plastic have been precut. You will need to release the almost cut through sections by either stressing the carpet a bit or use the box cutter. I used both, but be very careful with the box cutter as there are wires running underneath.
9. With the seat tilted back and the carpet lifted, the battery cover is now visible.
10. Release the spring clamps at each corner.
11. To remove the cover, you will need to reach underneath the cover in the back and lift it over the case so that it can slide backwards a bit. Doing so will allow the front of the cover to clear a metal lip.
12. If I were to remove the battery, I would remove all jewelry, remove the negative ground cable first, followed by the positive cable. If I have a 12volt source hooked up to retain the cars memory settings, I would wrap the end of the positive terminal with plastic to prevent a short should the positive terminal come in contact with any grounded surface. As to a 12volt source, I would not use a battery charger because it is NOT a power supply. I bought a 12 volt supply OBD2 cable off Amazon and will use it when required. However, the owner's manual has the car reset procedure listed and it's not complicated at all.
13. With the cover removed, you can see the front left corner hold down clamp and the main hold down clamp also on the left side.
13a. Use 10mm socket to remove both corner clamp and side clamp. The side clamp looks like a rod but is a 10mm bolt.
14. To lift the battery out, you may need a helper to lift the seat but again watch out of the wiring harness. Here, you might have to disconnect the three harness connectors. Be careful. One of them is airbag related. It appears that it is best to lift the front of the battery out first and then slide the whole battery out. Yep, it's heavy. When installing the replacement battery, if there are safety caps on the terminal, leave them on until you have the battery safely in its compartment and clamped back down.
15. Once installed, you are good to go to reinstall the clamps, the positive cable followed by the negative cable and backwards through the procedures.
16. Based on unverified information (PWIS or published shop manual) I believe that the seat mounting bolts are at 37 ftlbs. I saw no loctite remainder but blue loctite would not hurt anything as I suspect this area won't be accessed except every 4-8 years.
12-25-2019, 01:36 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
I bought a H9. It fits too. Same height and one inch longer. Want more power to run a CD.