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Battery Compartment Access

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Old 06-28-2017, 09:56 PM
  #16  
M0nk3yb0n3
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I was very lucky the battery I was disconnecting was nearly flat, probably the only reason I didn't lose the finger. And yes, silicone rings are in fact a real thing, cheap too. I work at Amazon in the ICQA department at a Texas FC and I see them all the time.
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Old 06-30-2017, 05:58 AM
  #17  
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The seat won't move even If I connect cables. I've had cables connected for 2 hours, voltage was at 13.8v but still no power at all. Can't move the seat or do anything at all.

4th day in a row I have been trying to access the battery compartment and no luck....
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Old 06-30-2017, 03:42 PM
  #18  
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Are you not getting power to anything else? Are no other accessories being powered? Because if that's the situation then you have some other electrical issue. Solve that first.

Does the other seat move? If so, then what's been done to this seat's wiring to keep it from providing power to it's motors?

I'd imagine the next step would be finding a way to get at the seat wiring and power it directly from another source.
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Old 08-01-2017, 12:06 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by wkearney99
I've seen pictures of the aftermath. Filed under "things you can't un-see, but REALLY wish you could". Ugh, it can get really BAD if that much amperage shorts out and heats up the metal in a ring. I've taken to just not wearing mine anymore, too many close calls with all kinds of different tools. I've heard there's such things as silicone wedding rings, but haven't gone that route.
I still have the scars from that 45 years ago.. gold is an excellent conductor, but it does get red hot when 100A is flowing through it. That was a Volvo alternator..
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Old 08-01-2017, 12:08 AM
  #20  
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Oh - battery registration - is unnecessary and actually can't be done. Even Porsche can't do it. The slots in the software are there, but you can't write anything to them. The reason being - Porsche decided to set the charging rate to maximize fuel mileage. If you are NOT in Sport mode - charging is limited to about 13.7V. If you then press the Sport button (where fuel economy doesn't matter) - it goes up to about 1V higher.

So - no dealer I called ever did it - and I tried with 3 different Porsche specific OBD programs - and they couldn't do it. Forgeddaboutit as we would say in NJ..
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:16 AM
  #21  
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Thanks for posting all of the detailed instructions. I just swapped my battery in 30 minutes because the instructions made it easy. The ALLDATA instructions were not nearly as helpful! My 958 experienced some electronic weirdness - rear wiper turned itself on and would not shut off and all of my radio presets and phone contacts were erased - this summer when I parked it outside overnight and the temps got down to the 30's. (Colorado).

My dealer told me that they would charge $750 for a new battery and installation. They knew that I would do it myself at that rate.... And they told me if I needed to have it programmed for the new battery, they would do it. I asked how they would do it if: 1. the battery was not Porsche branded and didn't have a serial number and 2. it is unknown that the car will accept the changes based on Don's comments. I didn't get an answer. "Just install the battery and let's see if there are any issues." Well, after one day, there are no issues.
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Old 01-30-2018, 06:07 PM
  #22  
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Thank you for the write up. It made the job much easier.
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Old 02-28-2018, 07:39 PM
  #23  
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Glad to find this thread. Never had an AGM battery in a car before so I'm not sure how different they behave from acid, if at all. My alt seems to be working hard often reading 14.9 while driving. At a stop the other day
the auto shutoff worked and I watched the ammeter drop tick tick tick down to 12.2v at which time the car started on its own. I'm fairly amazed that even in cold weather this thing starts no problem.

I mean I've had cars that wouldn't crank under 12.5 volts. With all the stuff on this car I know it needs lots of juice so again I'm amazed this hasn't stranded me.

Any one think I DON'T need a battery like right away?
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Old 05-19-2018, 05:51 PM
  #24  
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Very glad I found this link as it made changing the battery very easy.

However, I now have a very strange problem I can not figure out and hope there is some assistance here.

I have a 2011 Cayenne S.

I used a ODM memory keeper plugged in when I changed the battery. However after changing the battery, I tested starting it and it worked fine. I still had the ODM cable connected (forgot about it). Shut off the engine. Removed the ODM cable and when I tried to start it again, I get nothing. I can turn the key but nothing comes on as if it doesn't even recognize the key. I plug the ODM cable back in and connected to the power supply and the engine starts right up. No issues. As soon as I remove the ODM cable, the engine dies and I can't restart it.

I have checked all the fuses and none are blown.

Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 05-19-2018, 05:53 PM
  #25  
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Very glad I found this link as it made changing the battery very easy.

However, I now have a very strange problem I can not figure out and hope there is some assistance here.

I have a 2011 Cayenne S.

I used a ODM memory keeper plugged in when I changed the battery. However after changing the battery, I tested starting it and it worked fine. I still had the ODM cable connected (forgot about it). Shut off the engine. Removed the ODM cable and when I tried to start it again, I get nothing. I can turn the key but nothing comes on as if it doesn't even recognize the key. I plug the ODM cable back in and connected to the power supply and the engine starts right up. No issues. As soon as I remove the ODM cable, the engine dies and I can't restart it.

I have checked all the fuses and none are blown.

Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 09-12-2018, 04:04 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by CAVU
As fate would have it, I had to change the battery. I have noticed over the past couple of months memory drops and the last straw was the alarm going off. I checked the resting battery voltage and it was 12.18v. Not good. That is barely 50% charged for an AGM. Alternator was putting out well over 13.8v.

Picked up a H8 AGM from Advance Auto and with their 20% online coupon, the price was $151 down from $189. Let them keep their one dated 5/2015 and walked out with the 6/2016. I swear it looks just like a Varta. Vent line hook up was exactly the same too.

I used an OBDII connector with a 12v connector at one end to retain memory. The readaptation procedures in the owner's manual and AllData were straight forward. I saw zero mention of a PIWIS requirement to set battery age or date but next time I see my dealer tech I will ask.

My factory Varta battery was stamped 35/10. I got 6 years out of it. Not bad. I had hoped for more since it wasn't living in the engine compartment and was AGM. But, it was suffering from a slow death. Probably sulfination from all of the short drives and the starts and stops. $2.50 per month for a battery. Not bad. At least it didn't leave my wife stranded.
CAVA you stated H8 when I do a search on auto parts sites they say H7. What is the a difference ?
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Old 10-29-2018, 11:15 AM
  #27  
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Great guide, used it to R&R my battery last week. Dealer wanted 600+ for a Porsche Battery not including install. So I went with this made in Germany Autocraft H8 AGM: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...agm/10210828-P

As another poster stated, appears to have been made in the same factory as the original Varta battery, looked identical except for the stickers. $166 after 20% off online coupon and core refund.

One more thing to note, the factory service manual does specify the use of new bolts when reinstalling the seat. Porsche (N-911-475-02)
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Old 11-25-2018, 03:54 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by deilenberger
Oh - battery registration - is unnecessary and actually can't be done. Even Porsche can't do it. The slots in the software are there, but you can't write anything to them. The reason being - Porsche decided to set the charging rate to maximize fuel mileage. If you are NOT in Sport mode - charging is limited to about 13.7V. If you then press the Sport button (where fuel economy doesn't matter) - it goes up to about 1V higher.

So - no dealer I called ever did it - and I tried with 3 different Porsche specific OBD programs - and they couldn't do it. Forgeddaboutit as we would say in NJ..
I'm not sure why you say "Porsche can't do it". I just did it with a PIWIS2 on a 958.1. You can code the battery info into the Gateway, just as the manual specifies: there are 4 information slots, and all 4 accept the required information (brand, capacity (Ah), 10 digit part#, 11 digit serial#), which is then subsequently be written to the Gateway.
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Old 11-27-2018, 09:56 AM
  #29  
David Salama
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Changed the battery on my wife's 2011 CTT. Followed your instructions and hooked up my jumper box to the positive terminal under hood and a ground to keep some current in the car to retain memory. Have to say the write up instructions were spot on, thank you!! Very easy job with the right tools. Even picked up a replacement battery (H8 AGM) from Advance Auto at 20% off for about $155. This was a perfect match. Once completed, the only issue was the seat memory was lost. No big deal. No dummy lights, and a very happy wife!! BTW, our battery has never been changed as the carpet has never been breached. 8 years old and 65K miles. That's a great battery life. The only sign we had to replace the battery was a hesitation in starting the car.
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Old 12-01-2018, 05:41 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by garrett376
I'm not sure why you say "Porsche can't do it". I just did it with a PIWIS2 on a 958.1. You can code the battery info into the Gateway, just as the manual specifies: there are 4 information slots, and all 4 accept the required information (brand, capacity (Ah), 10 digit part#, 11 digit serial#), which is then subsequently be written to the Gateway.
I say that because I called 3 NJ dealers and asked the service department if they could code the battery. They responded all the same way "Say what?" - and stated they never did it. Perhaps the service "advisers" don't know what the mechanics are actually doing in the shop - and this was about 3 years ago when I got the CTT - so things could have changed - but at that time - dealers had no clue about it.
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