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Cayenne 958 V8 DIY Oil Change w/pictures

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Old 06-26-2012, 04:44 PM   #31
rgoodwin
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Default Reset service interval light

Thanks for posting all the pics and step by step.

I want to do the 10K on my 2012 Cayenne S as well - but how did you get your service indicator reset?

On my Mercedes I can do via the steering wheel - but the Porsche dealer says you need their computer to do it (and they wont reset it if I change the oil myself).

Changing it myself seems to be the only way to know 100% that it is actually done with the right oil etc!

Thanks,
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Old 06-27-2012, 01:20 PM   #32
Mike in CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgoodwin View Post
Thanks for posting all the pics and step by step.

I want to do the 10K on my 2012 Cayenne S as well - but how did you get your service indicator reset?

On my Mercedes I can do via the steering wheel - but the Porsche dealer says you need their computer to do it (and they wont reset it if I change the oil myself).

Changing it myself seems to be the only way to know 100% that it is actually done with the right oil etc!

Thanks,
You're welcome. My dealer reset the service indicator for me at no cost; the only way to do it yourself, that I'm aware of, is with a Durametric service tool. I guess it depends on the relationship you have with your Porsche dealer. I've purchased 3 Porsches and 2 Audis from this dealer so I guess I've built some good will or maybe it's just that they are reasonable folks. Good luck!

http://www.durametric.com/default.aspx

Last edited by Mike in CA; 06-27-2012 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:31 AM   #33
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wonder if its the same on the previous model? its got the same 4.8 V8 RIGHT?
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:52 AM   #34
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Thanks for the info. I did my first oil change today using your instructions!
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Old 08-27-2012, 02:43 PM   #35
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BTW, did you guys use a low profile 36 mm socket? I only had a 1/4" drive, so I ended up using an adapter to fit my 3/8" torque wrench. However, the hose wouldn't bend that much to fit the it so I had to use a slimmer regular wrench at first, then switching to the torque wrench afterwards.

This may not be new info for a lot of people, but I saw some low profile 3/8" drive 36 mm sockets specifically for changing oil on Amazon. This should be somewhat more convenient in that there'll be enough clearance so that don't even have to bend the hose. This might be useful to know for first timers like myself.
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:54 PM   #36
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Default Turbo Question

Is the procedure the same for the Turbo?

Thanks, JohnnyB
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:43 PM   #37
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Yes, it's the same on a Turbo.
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Old 06-01-2013, 10:32 PM   #38
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I can tell you from experience, this is not the same on the V6. First try using this DIY, I ended up draining the tranny fluid instead... Very similar looking drain bolt as in this V8. Anyway, $300 in tranny fluid later, and a tow to the porsche dealership, I figured it out! Flames welcome..
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Old 06-22-2013, 03:28 PM   #39
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It is exactly the same for us 957 (2008-2010 owners) with the V8 engine. The only minor difference is the filter cap is slightly different. I had to use channel locks to unscrew it. Overall it took almost an hour just because taking off the under carrier plastic shrouds and letting the oil drain for about 15 minutes to get all of it out....could probably do this in 45 minutes start to finish.

There is no mistaking the engine oil pan for the trans pan.....saw someone did that. DOH! The plugs do look similar though....that I'll give you. ;-)
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:59 PM   #40
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Anyone know what size the oil drain bolt is on a 2013 v6? I just want make sure i have the right tool before i start my oil change.
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Old 10-08-2013, 04:03 AM   #41
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Thank you v much,

I registered in the forum to thank you sir for the great work that you have done. The problem i need to reset oil change alarm by computer through porsche dealership. i am not sure if i can buy the durametric cable and reset by own. furthermore, the oil change in porsche dealership UAE, Abu Dhabi or Dubai will me around 405 US Dollar! which is too expensive.

Thank you again
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Old 10-18-2013, 12:51 AM   #42
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hey guys,

the filter that I got from dealer is not flat on both sides... it has neck on one
side

http://www.partsgeek.com/assets/dimage/full/1183536.jpg

how do I install it

thx
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Old 04-28-2014, 05:44 PM   #43
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Update:

"I changed the oil in my Cayenne S yesterday and discovered, not an error exactly, but something I'd like to update in the DIY oil change info I posted. Turns out you can get by with removing just 2 bolts, not 3, to get the PDCC plumbing out of the way of the filter housing. You don't need to remove the bolt that clamps the hose to the bracket, as shown in Pic #7 and described in the text."



Thanks Mike!

Best
John
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:41 PM   #44
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Default Thank you so much for doing THIS!!

I have now changed my oil 3 times since I have owned my 2009 Cayenne GTS. Your fantastic post walked me thru the 1st time, and it's been a cake walk since. The only thing I would add, is that on my GTS, there is no room for my big 35mm socket. I substitute an old fashion metal strap filter wrench like you use on a metal Fram oil filter. It works great on the black composite filter housing. This eliminates any clearance problems that you might encounter with a big socket and 1/2" drive ratchet. Thanks again, you have saved me about $500 to date!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike in CA View Post
As promised a while back, this is a step by step DIY for changing the oil and filter in the latest Porsche Cayenne V8 (Type 958 Model year 2011- ). Hopefully a few tips plus some pictures will help make this a pretty straightforward experience for you. Some of the info is basic for experienced oil changers, but I've included it in case there are some first timers out there who might want to give this a try. Picture taking aside, my first change with the Cayenne took longer as I was eyeballing and taking note of the location of things, but next time I expect it to take about an hour.

What You Need:

Picture 1 shows the items and tools you'll need:

Oil filter
Oil filter cap ring gasket
Drain plug washer
10 quarts of synthetic oil (more on this later)
36 mm 6 or 12 point socket
10 mm socket
T30 Torx bit or driver
8 mm Hex bit
Minimum 12 quart capacity oil drain pan (not shown)
Container for used oil (not shown)

I purchased the filter and gaskets from Suncoast Porsche as a kit, but they are available through many outlets. I'm not going to recommend a particular synthetic oil or viscosity; there is probably as much diversity of thought on this subject as any on Rennlist. You should read the manual and do a RL search, but suffice to say that Porsche recommends the following viscosities:

SAE 0W-40
SAE 5W-40
SAE 5W-50

I use Mobil 1 0W-40. If you decide to go with a different brand just make sure that it meets the Porsche A40 approval spec; that designation should appear right on the oil's label. Depending on your source, with discounts, expect to pay in the neighborhood of $90-$100 for oil and parts (most of it for oil).

Jacking Up the Car:

If you have a garage lift this is a snap, and you also probably don't need any DIY help from an amateur. If you do jack up the car, make sure that it's properly supported by jack stands and that all proper safety precautions are used. You will be crawling fully under the vehicle so don't skimp on this step. As an alternative to jacking the car, Picture 2 shows what I like to do. I place a 2x4 in front of each wheel and drive up on them. This automatically provides an added 1.5" of clearance and keeps the car level which facilitates draining the oil and checking the oil level when refilling. Since I have Air Suspension I raised the car to the highest setting then used my jack as a fail safe under the center chassis cross member. This provided plenty of clearance for me to work.

Removing the Engine Under Trays:

For this step you'll need the T30 Torx bit or driver. There are 14 Torx screws, 10 for the front tray and 4 for the rear. Picture 3 shows the trays in place, Picture 4 shows them removed, and Picture 5 shows them off the car. Remove the front tray first. Note the two "wings" on the front tray; remove these screws before the others as they are harder to reach and you don't want the tray potentially hanging from them. After the front tray is off you can remove the rear tray. You may be tempted to leave it in place because at this point the drain plug is exposed, but a lot of oil comes out when the plug is removed and the rear tray would certainly capture some of it. Before you remove it, note how the back of the rear tray hooks over a slot in the frame and is "sandwiched" in place between the frame and a removable metal piece held by 2 Torx screws.

Drain the Oil:

Make sure that the engine is warmed up (do this before you jack the car). The oil will flow better and contaminants will be suspended and can be flushed out more easily (Picture 6). Use the 8mm hex bit to remove the drain plug. Your catch container should be of sufficient size to accommodate the oil from the sump with enough extra capacity to avoid sloshing over the top when you move it around. I let the oil drain for about 15 minutes or until the flow is reduced to individual drips. While you're waiting for this you can start the next step.

Exposing the Filter

The filter is located underneath the engine on the passenger side at the front. On my car, there is a hose and a bracket that need to be relocated to get to it. (I say on my car because I have PDCC and it appears the hose is associated with that option. If you don't have it you can skip this step.) Picture 7 shows the location of the 3-10mm bolts that need to be removed (one is just out of the picture to the driver's side). The bolt closest to the filter actually separates the hose from the bracket and allows you to tie off the hose to the rear. The bracket will ultimately remain attached by a single remaining bolt that is secured from above, but it's mounted in rubber and the bracket can easily be swung out of the way. Picture 8 shows the now exposed filter housing.

Removing the Filter:

By now the sump has probably drained sufficiently so you can button it up with a new washer on the drain plug. Recommended torque is 50nm or 37ftlbs. Sump and plug are both aluminum: DON'T OVERTIGHTEN. Move your drain pan under the filter housing. The filter cap (and filter) are the exact same ones used on the 997.2 Carrera. A 36mm 6 or 12 point socket is required to remove it. FWIW, this is a change from the earlier V8 which required a 76mm 14 sided cap wrench. Remove the cap (Picture 9), allow the oil to drain and remove the filter element (Picture 10). Picture 11 shows how to remove the old filter ring gasket from the cap. Note the groove in the cap where the ring gasket resides. Wipe down the filter cap, lightly oil the new gasket with fresh oil, and slip it over the cap into place.

Reinstall the filter:

The filter fits snugly over a collar inside the housing (it doesn't matter which end of the filter goes in first), and also a collar inside the cap. As with my Carrera, I like to seat the filter over the collar in the housing first (Picture 12), then center and screw down the cap, but you can fit it in the cap first if you choose. I'm more confident of proper alignment when I do it the first way. Tighten the filter cap to 25nm or 18ftlbs. The cap is plastic; DON'T OVERTIGHTEN. Reinstall the PDCC bracket and hose into their proper positions if necessary.

Add Oil:

You'll want to do this before reinstalling the engine trays, so you can start the car and check for leaks. The stated capacity of the engine and filter is 9.5 quarts, however it is critical that you don't overfill as damage to the engine or catalytic converters can result. Depending on how long and thoroughly you let the engine drain and whether the car is level, a full 9.5 quarts may not have come out. For that reason, I always fill initially to something less than capacity, but enough so that at worst I will be above the minimum level when I start the car. In this case I added about 8.75 quarts. After starting the car and checking for leaks I brought the engine up to temperature to get a reading on the oil level gauge. It read "Oil Level OK" but it was 1 bar low. Each segment of the gauge is supposedly equal to .26 of a quart, but since the point at which the next bar is illuminated is unknown (to me at least) it's best to proceed slowly. Rechecking after each add, I added a couple of tenths of a quart, then 2 more tenths and the guage was at full (Picture 13). Total oil added was about 9.25 quarts. The thing to remember is, don't just dump in 9.5 quarts; sneak up on it and you won't overfill.

Finishing Up:

Time to reinstall the engine trays in the reverse order you took them off. I didn't torque the screws, I just made sure they were snug without tightening them too much. The clips and screws on engine trays often don't fit well on some cars but these all lined up perfectly. The car comes down off the jack stands or whatever and it's ready to go. BTW, if your "service due" indicator has come on, you will need to have your Porsche dealer reset it. Mine does it as a courtesy.

For me, the savings of a few hundred dollars isn't the biggest attraction of doing this job myself. There's not much shade tree maintenance that can be done on cars any more without specialized equipment or expertise, but an oil change can still be one of them. Spending quality time under the hood may not be everyone's cup of tea, but for some reason, it's especially rewarding when that hood is on a Porsche, and this service on the 958 Cayenne V8 is pretty easy. The money savings is icing on the cake.
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Old 05-31-2014, 11:23 PM   #45
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Great post...

If i understand correctly, a Durametric tool will remove the 10k mile Service reminder, which resets the oil change interval.
I'm getting ready for my first oil change on my 958 TT. I recently ordered the Durametric (enthusiast version) so i can do it all, start to finish, and not rely on my dealer.

Thanks again for the informative/detailed post!

Last edited by BlazinPond; 06-02-2014 at 12:50 AM.
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