Johnny_clear

Newbie to the site. I've got a 2007 CTT, Mk11, which i believe was introduced in 2008 in the states. The 368 fronts, or in other words a complete pain in the A$$ to get parts. I've done the front Rotors and Pads, but having loads of trouble on the rear as i can't get the Triple Squares to fit. I have XZN's 14mm and 16mm, but neither fit. I have noticed that others have mentioned a 15mm (T15), but for the life of me I can't find this in the UK or Europe at all. Does it exist?

mudman2

Try a VW dealer, its standard on those also. Over here they are freely available in most auto parts stores.

Also try rockauto.com, they have distribution in the uk and also Amazon.co.uk

XR4Tim

Johnny, they should be 16mm triple square. It is difficult to get most sockets to fit because of the lines in the way. Try either a very stubby or very long version of the 16.

Johnny_clear

Thanks Mudman and XR4. I'll try both. Maybe a little tap with a hammer to get it in. It looks like it hasn't been changed in a while so it'll be a breaker bar job, just don't want to strip it.

JW3

The best way to do the rear brakes is to put the automobile on a lift, take it up and run the drives through the axle arms. No cramped space and much easier to remove and replace the caliper bolts.

kalyan

I am in the middle of replacing the rotors and pads on our 08 CS.

I find the caliper bolt really tight. It is so tight that it is making me doubt if I tightening it or loosening it. I am afraid I might break the head of that bolt.

Any tips on removing this? PB Blaster it?

Also, if the rotor is stuck to the hub, should I gently hit it with a rubber mallet? Or is there another bolt or something holding it? I removed the triple square bolt and it came off easy.

Final question. What is the recommended thread lock when putting them back together on the bolts?

Many thanks!!

kalyan

Can I use an air impact gun on that caliper bolt? Is it okay to use it on the bolt?

racer_65

My advice is don't do it. The cars is too heavy and torque specs are high. Let the professionals make their money.

I'm speaking as someone who tried it. I broke my hydraulic jack.

Van1

You should use new bolts when reinstalling the calipers. They come encapsulated with thread locker (light green color). They are only a few dollars each at Sunset.

If the rotor is still seized to the hub after you have removed all of the bolts from the hat, yes you will need to tap it with a hammer. I'd use a steel hammer as you are not going to reuse the old rotor anyway. And here is a tip, put a lug bolt back in before attempting to use a hammer. This will keep the rotor from dropping on your self once it breaks free.

kalyan

Well, I decided to take racer_65's advice and did not change the rotors. It needs 200 ft/lb torque and I don't have a torque wrench for that. I changed the pads for now and I will get the rotors replaced professionally later.

Van1, thats a great idea. thanks!

4x4

Just in progress with replacing the brake calipers and pads. Does anyone have the part numbers handy for all the bolts and accessories required?

Super Steve

Hi guys, I got my brake rotors from an Canadian online shop and I am pretty satisfied with the quality of the Discs. The service is amazing those guys are real profesionnals. I am sharing this link in order to help some of you to find good quality brake kits.

http://www.crossdrilledrotors.ca/

khowell

Changed the front pads and rotors. First side took 90 minutes, including the time to look for a few tools. Second side took 30 minutes. Easy job except for the 200ft lb bolts on the caliper. After getting the caliper bolts mainly off, I took them all the way out and got the rotor loosened up, then held the caliper in one hand while pulling the old rotor off and lifting the new one into place. Should have been practicing arm curls all week....that was a handful!

On ECS's advice, I ordered two of the new spring/pin kits, but found out I needed one set for the front and one set for the rears.....so I have the new front set on order and just temporarily put the old pin and spring back in for now. Anyone need an extra rear spring/pin set?

To make removing the old pin a little easier, I used some 1500 grit sandpaper to polish the pin a bit before tapping it out. I also kept it wet with some brake cleaner while driving it.....seemed to help.

khowell

Did the rears yesterday. Not too bad except for the pins.....couldn't drive them more than about a half inch, so I finally just cut them off with a cut-off wheel. After that, pretty straight forward. Some difficulty in getting the rotors off due to the parking brake, but not horrible.

vchris1987

As this thread continues I thought not to start a new one about Pads & Rotors.
I am considering replacing the rotors and pads (front and rear) with drilled ones from R1concepts:

http://www.r1concepts.com/detail/pro...ayenne/Turbo:/

Does anyone has experience with them or generally with Drilled rotors? I have heard of some cases where the drilled rotors crack due to excessive vehicle weight. Is it true or another mechanic fantasy story?

Otherwise I will probably stick with OEM.