jayi836

I started hearing a droning sound from the rear of my 958TT for several months, my son confirmed it was on the right side. Sounded like tire noise.

I had the Cayenne on jack stands recently when I replaced the ATF, running the car off the ground briefly I confirmed that the RR bearing has a low speed clicking low noise and a drone at 35-40MPH. Also petty obvious it was the RR the other 3 wheels didn’t have the same noise.

This is not a difficult project, it should take me 4 hours next time. Take lots of pictures and observe the clearances for the axle through the hub, before removal of the axle nut.

DISCLAIMER: The author is not telling you how to do this job. He is telling you how HE did this job. Neither he nor RennList can be responsible if you injure yourself trying to do the work described. We didn't tell you how to do it - we simply documented what we did. If you have any doubt of your ability to complete the job in a safe manner - please take your vehicle to a professional to be serviced.

Perhaps the toughest part of the job was to remove the axle from the wheel bearing housing hub assembly (wheel carrier in manual)

I choose to replace the bearing, hub, and rotors due to the mileage. (166,400 miles)

Turn off the air suspension if equipped.

Disassembly:

• Loosen axle nut with the parking brake on and the wheel on the ground, impact wrench does the job with the wheel off.
• Remove the brake wear sensor, ABS sensor, and parking brake connectors.
• I also removed the ABS sensor from the wheel bearing housing to clean it.
• Remove rotor, brake shoes and parking brake actuator.
• Using the 3-piece or any hub puller put pressure on the axle while its attached to the hub, check that there is freeplay on the axle by rocking it back and forth should move ~1”. The CV joints have quite of bit of play.
• The axle removal takes a bit of patience, depending on corrosion. A can of liquid wrench or PB Blaster does the trick. I sprayed the spline and the front of the bearing where it meets the hub several times over 3-4 hours that turned into days waiting for parts, I didn’t want to force it and was unsure if I should get the puller pictured in the manual.
• Crank down on the forcing screw of the 3- jaw puller then give it a few good hits with a sledgehammer, a few more turns and repeat the hammering. Some rusted axles may have to be heated. Lots of videos showing that process. To summarize get the hub up to 600-700° then wet down the axle only, follow the steps above. Applying heat as a last resort, luckily after a few days of spraying, I was able to pull the axle out. Couldn’t do much until the parts arrived.
  For contrast, I just replaced the front CV boots on a 996TT, the axles popped out by hand.
• Remove all wheel bearing housing attachment bolts with the exception of the shock bolt and lower control arm bolt.
• Back off the shock bolt enough to release the sway bar.
• Flip the wheel bearing housing down and remove the axle. Cover the spline and support the axle.
• At this point the hub and bearing can be removed (4) bolts, it can then sent to a local shop to be pressed out and in.

I choose to purchase the OTC Hub Grappler and pulled the hub from the old bearing, I will keep the old hub as a spare (same part for all 4 corners). I then pressed the new hub and bearing together.

Reassembly:

• Reassemble in the reverse order. Use 4 new bearing bolts and torque to spec. The service manual references a drive shaft puller (T10206), I couldn’t locate one and used the old axle nut to pull the axle into the hub. The manual references silver anti-seize on the axle spline I used it on the hub also. Remove the old axle nut and install new axle nut and torque to 96 ft/lbs
• If you have air suspension lower the car to about halfway of the suspension travel or normal ride height, start the vehicle and turn back on the air suspension run the car for 2 minutes at idle. Allow the air shocks to recharge then slowly lower completely, do not to bottom out the air suspension. (This is my procedure I haven’t seen this published anywhere except by Bilstein when replacing the shocks)
• Torque the axle nut to 340ftlbs.
• Have your alignment checked (I had no adjustments needed after repair)
• You will have some warning lights for the ABS and brake system they go away after a few feet of driving.

Tools needed:

• Basic socket set
• 32MM 12 point axle nut socket and a torque wrench up to 150 ft/lbs and 340ft/lbs
• Wheel bearing press and hub extractor. I used a harbor freight 6” 3 jaw puller.
• I have the OTC 3 jaw puller but it didn’t fit on the groves of the hub.
• Metric Allen Set, Triple square set and an assortment of deep sockets up to 24MM.
• Breaker bar
• ½” Impact wrench
• 4 pound sledge hammer
• Torch if rusted
• Bearing removal and hub installation tool. I used the OTC Hub grappler they have a hydraulic adapter that looks like the tool in the service manual OTC Tools Hub Grappler Hydraulic Kit (OTC 6575-3)
  https://www.otctools.com/products/ot...ppler%E2%84%A2

Parts List:

• · 958-331-583-00 Bearing Assembly
• · 958-341-605-01 Front Hub
• · WHT-006-779 Axle Nut (1)
• · WHT-004-835 Bearing Assembly Bolt (4)
• · 958-352-401-50 Brembo Brake Disc (Cayenne Rear)(2)

Torque Specs:

• Front caliper bolts are 104 ft/lbs
• Rear Caliper Bolts are 63 ft/lbs
• WHT-006-779 Axle Nut 96 ft/lbs (initial) then 340 ft/lbs (loaded)
• WHT-004-835 Bearing Assembly Bolt 59 ft/lbs +120° (one time use angle torque bolts)
• The existing bolts need to be confirmed from the manual it looks like 111ftlbs +90° (one time use angle torque nut)
• The shock absorber 67 ft/lbs +90° (one-time use angle torque nuts)
• Speed sensor 6 ft/lbs
• Wheel lug nuts 118 ft/lbs

• OTC 6575 Hub Grappler Kit
• OTC 1038 Mechanical Grip-O-Matic Puller, or Harbor freight 3 jaw hub puller
  You Tube
• VW Audi OEM Tool Drive Shaft Axle Hub Fitting Install Tool, PN T10206 for Audi Q7/ VW Touareg and Cayenne (24X1.5MM)

RAudi Driver

Very nice!

dc2000

Hi. Is it possible to replace the wheel bearing with just hand tools or do I need an impact gun? Thanks.