Dion Houng-Lee

Have a 11' Turbo and I finished my brake job last weekend and saved over $1000 by doing it myself. I used Textar pads all round, OEM front and Meyle rear rotors. I reused my wear sensors, pad clips and bolts. I know your "supposed" to replace all of those parts but I have never had an issue. Flushed the brake fluid and bled with an amazon pressure bleeder. The pedal feel is as good as it was before so I am happy with the results.

For those that attempt this, get the front caliper tool (many other posts confirm this) to hold the calipers while you change things. Well worth the $40 and headache if you don't have them as the calipers are heavy. Take the brackets off the hose lines first before you take off the caliper. Remember when you do the rears, put it in neutral and leave parking brake off. If you have air suspension, don't forget to put it in service mode (push up on the adjustment leaver for 10s, to restore when done, do the same thing).

I hope this helps someone in the future and if you have done a brake job before, it's not much different, just HUGE calipers.

Ghost Ryder

Where did you buy the parts? Do you know of any aftermarket front rotors? Where did you by the caliper tool?

r553

You might check with Alretta Truck Parts Inc. They sell brake kits for Touregs and Cayennes.

chsu74

https://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDe...temid=16580009

Dion Houng-Lee

I got the tool from http://www.baumtools.com

Most of the parts I got from PelicanParts. There is one aftermarket supplier for the front rotors but they were the same price as OEM ones from sunset porsche parts.

Dion Houng-Lee

A couple additional things as I remember.

I put out the front on jack stands so I could easily turn the wheels to get access to the top bolt that hold the bracket for the brakes lines.

Need to remove the wheel speed sensor clip to get more slack in the lines when you pull off the caliper.

Front caliper bolts were a star socket while while the rears were an xyz torx.

I put brake assembly fluid fluid on the back of the pads and no squeeking.

i was able to press the pads down to compress the caliper pistons mostly by hand and also used a pipe clamp (no pad spreader required).

Front caliper bolt torque was 104 ft lbs while rears was 64 I think.

if your flushing the brake fluid and general bleeding should be done passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front and driver front last.

Ghost Ryder

did you have to remove the wheel well lining to use the caliper tool?

Dion Houng-Lee

Not at all. If you get the front on jack stands you can turn the wheel direction by hand. Crank it all the way out to the side you are working on and there a ton of room.

Ghost Ryder

How about the rear?

Dion Houng-Lee

Rear calipers are light enough and there is enough slack in the lines to just put them on top of a bucket turned upside down.

tgavem

Correct, turn wheel max left or right for the side you are working on.

Also helps with access for one clip for the break line as geometry of the suspension changes.

RAudi Driver

I think they are all triple squares if I recall correctly. I have a DIY that I have yet to post up. I have to put it together and get all the pics in line.

Also, if you are doing your brakes, spend the cash on the hardware. The caliper bolts are one time use hardware. They can be reused but they are cheap. The new clips will help with irregular brake wear and squeaking.