ElSpoon958

I must say, great job! I wish you had more pictures of how you did the full flush / draining via those lines. I think I thought I would try that when I did my ATF change a few months back, but ran into trouble pretty much exactly at the point of this picture lol. Did you end up replacing that/those parts where the transmission line connects back up to the radiator or whatever? That shiny blackness looks new. I had difficulty trying to remove those when I did it. Couldn't figure out how exactly to disconnect them without breaking something or making things worse somehow. If that piece is new, does anyone know the part number(s)?

conemasher

I had the ECS filler with the quick disconnect hooked up to the transmission pan pumping in new fluid. Once the cooler lines are disconnected and pointed into the bucket, have a helper start the car and you'll see fluid come out of the top line.

I didn't replace anything. The lines appear shiny after I cleaned them up. Both the top and bottom lines overlap and share the bolt. I don't remember having issues popping them off.

This is another DIY thread that I followed: https://rennlist.com/forums/diy-caye...atf-flush.html

Here's another picture that shows the overlap. The bolt is partially covered up by the bottom line.

ElSpoon958

That's awesome, thanks for the reply. I guess I still have a question on how exactly you were able to get that part/piece off and back on in one piece lol. I know it's a tricky area for access like getting the right size tool that fits in there to loosen and tighten the bolt. Just curious if you recall how you did it. That's the only reason I didn't follow anyone's DIY writeup i.e. twodollardoug complete with the transmission lines disconnected to pump all the old fluid out and new fluid in. Also I guess it would have helped to have a second hand / set of eyes to help shift gears while I'm looking at the lines and which one of them is pumping fluid out and which isn't lol.

When you say the ECS filler tool, are you talking about this thing? 3-Liter Multi-Functional Filler System Because that looks pretty nifty for the price. I might buy one.


schwabennnnnnn

conemasher

That's the tool I bought. I wish it held more fluid but no complaints otherwise. You'll need someone to go through the gears while you make sure that the transmission has enough fluid.

I didn't have any issues accessing the area or getting the lines off. Everything was straightforward. Were yours stuck? I used a short socket extension to remove the bolt.

Here's one last picture to show it disconnected.

958nurse

I am going to be flushing mine as soon as all the parts come in. I am buying the Ravenol T-WS change kit - https://www.blauparts.com/porsche-ca...hange-kit.html
going to use my garden sprayer I have here since it has a 5L capacity with the adapter fitting tool - https://www.blauparts.com/audi-vw-09...as-6262-2.html to fill.

Did you use all of the same fluid throughout the flush? I believe you said it took about 14L in all.

Going to be a long day under the PIG since ill changing the fluids in the tranny, T case, diffs, and oil change

ElSpoon958

Smart man, going with Blauparts over FCPEuro. At least on this specific service/issue. Glad this thread helped, if it did.

I don't think it'll take you 14L. I had to use a combo initially of AMSOIL and Liquid-Moly because I didn't have enough ATF, period, thanks in part to FCPEuro's severely inaccurate kit I purchased. But eventually I flushed it all out and am running pure Liqui-Moly now. I envy the Ravenol though, as from what I've heard it might even be a little bit better than Liquid Moly!

conemasher

Yes I used the same expensive fluid for the flush. I ran out at one point and ordered more but I was tempted to find something locally so I could finish the job.

I’m due for spark plugs, engine oil and transfer case fluid.

958nurse

T case should be pretty easy.
While under the PIG I noticed I had some gunk buildup from some kind of a leak around the drive shaft exit from front diff to T case...ugh, always something, when I change the Diff fluid ill measure and see if I am missing any. in the mean time I cleaned
it up so I'll see if anything changes.
anyone know how much play is normal for the drive shaft from T case to front diff? mine has no in/out play but a small amount of rotational movement when I twist it by hand. Nothing else really noticeable

958nurse

yeah I didn't feel like diving into all the differences in the fluid so I just went with the higher priced one that in general i've heard was a excellent choice to use. I have changed my mind though on doing a complete flush.
I am going to just empty the pan and lines at the tranny and replace from there and see if that improves anything.
My whole issue is hesitation accelerating after slowing down or from a stop. like you would feel in a loose U-joint on a drive shaft or a slipping clutch

zentoed

EDIT: NEVERMIND

Don't do what I did... Don't choose to monitor the coolant temp instead of the trans fluid!!!!


Feel free to delete this post if desired.

ORIGINAL POST BELOW

I have a question for those of you who have done this.
How quickly does the temperature of your trans fluid climb?



I did a dry run the other day to test if I could read the temp with my Launch scanner, (yes) and the temp climbed very slowly, but when I went to complete the actual job it seemed to climb much quicker for some reason.
I am just attempting to top up the fluid level due to a trans heat exchanger leak, while waiting to get it in to the dealer.

When I got all set up, I started the vehicle, 30c, ran through the gears, raised vehicle, 35c, pumped in some fluid, 40c, checked for outflow- no, pumped more fluid, 45c, finally got some outflow and by the time it slowed down and I plugged it, It was over 50 degrees c.

I am concerned that at the higher temp, with added expansion of fluid that I may still be underfilled...

Am I worrying about nothing?
It seems like there is not enough time to perform the procedure?

I guess I will be checking it again tomorrow and allowing it to drain as it approaches 40 degrees...

AnAlbumCover

I think the fluid is supposed to get to 100C and then cooled down to 35C unless you did just a drain and fill.

I'm in the minority here but our transmissions are units from Toyota so if you got it close enough, it'll be fine. This fluid doesn't "expand" 2x when it gets hot. If you pulled out ~4 liters, put back in ~4 liters and you'll be fine.

zentoed

Thanks for the response. My edit and your response must have crossed in the ether.
I discovered my mistake. When choosing to monitor the fluid temp, I incorrectly chose to monitor the coolant temp (at the transmission) instead of the transmission oil temp.

I just redid the level check with the correct fluid being monitored and the fluid temp change was much more gradual, and I was able to complete the process as intended.
Turns out with my incorrect procedure the fluid level was close, but a little bit high.

Tony