gnat

Now that I have a bit more time, here is the text of the procedure for the rear calipers:

1. Remove wheel (directions use the guide pins, remove them after the wheel is off).
2. Carefully press the brake pads back using "water pump pliers".
3. Release and unclip the connector for the brake pad wear indicator and remove it from the holder.
4. Get the transmission jack ready for the brake caliper and loosen the brake caliper.
5. Place the brake caliper on the transmission jack.
6. Carefully slide a commercially available screwdriver between the brake pad/brake calliper and lever the brake pad out by turning the screwdriver slightly. When doing this, make sure not to damage the dust boots on the brake pistons
7. Remove pad retaining springs.
8. Fit new pad retaining springs.
9. Place the disc brake pad onto the sealing surfaces of the pad retaining springs.
10. Press the brake pad into the brake calliper with slight pressure and slide it onto the pad retaining pins.
11. Fit the brake pad.
12. Fit the brake calliper and check that the brake hose is routed correctly (do not twist the brake hose!).
13. Position disc brake pads by operating the brake several times.
14. Check the brake fluid level and correct it if necessary.

dryadsdad

What is a 'guide pin'?

Seems to me that everything on this machine is roughly 8x as difficult as it needs to be. I mean changing the pads should be simple:

1. Remove wheel
2. Remove caliper
3. Pull pins
4. Pull pads
5 Reverse 1-4

Yet here it seems as complex as a valve job on a normal car. I'm growing discouraged about doing anything more than adding oil to my CTT.

BlazinPond

I just may attempt a brake change down the road and this will be helpful.
A youtube video or detailed pics would certainly help though.

duh

The brembos are just a little harder to push the pistons back in, but no big deal, just need to try pressing both sides at the same time.
Guide pins are pins that fit into the lug holes to keep the wheel lined up and from falling off on you since you dont have the standard lug studs.

tgavem

The guide pin is located in your trunk with the jack or tool kit. It is great aid anytime you remove a tire.
Lisle 25750 or 29100 are great brake pad spreaders that can be found on Amazon.


Picture of the tools and calipers in this link for the S
https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...1-cayenne.html

kosmo

recall that on the older cayennes calipers didnt need to be removed.

kosmo

which of the spreader tool do you recommend for both a cayenne and a 997

tgavem

Correct, same as the 996, 997 etc etc. It was an easy job. (5 min per wheel)
With increased pad size and pressure required, my guess is that additional structural stiffness was required and therefore Porsche went with solid rotors.

tgavem

I use the Lisle 25750 - most use have been on the 996 GT3 since I track it.
Small (fits in my track tool box kit) and spreads pads easily

tgavem

Added info to procedure above:
3.1: 6mm Hex used to remove both. However, could not get to upper and had to jack up wheel assembly/suspension arm to compress spring to get to the upper one. See 3rd photo
3.2 & 3.3: Confirm both need to be disconnected. Speed sensor is on the back side.
Brake fluid reservoir is under the hood, and under the plastic cover by the VIN number, does not look like a removable cover.
4-6: Use M14 triple square to remove caliper bolts
used plastic to push back brake pad from disk. Can't get a spreader into the back space.
5 & 7: Use the VW tool listed above, its a VW part, remove the caliper bolts and install the pins. I forgot to take a photo of this :-( The calipers are massive so buy the tools, they are inexpensive, SnapOn has them.
There is no room between caliper and wheel arch liner to install the tools/rods so wheel arch liner need to be removed, unscrew 50% of fasteners and fold back liner. Make sure steps in 3 are complete by now.

tgavem

Rear brakes were easy. Only need to loosen brake pad sensor. Did not need to do anything special for the e-brake
The brake pad clips need to be pushed out in order to thread the sensor through the caliper. A big screw driver and muscle

BlazinPond

Thanks for adding pics! That should be quite helpful along with what was previously posted.

kosmo

sticky

m a x i m u s

What's the deal with the pad sensor warning light reset? From my research, I thought it reset automatically once continuity was restored via new sensors. I used non-oem sensors from pelican parts, so assumed something was wrong with them. I was going to swap them out for OEM ones so called pelican, and they said the car needed to be hooked up to the porsche computer to reset it. I told him that my pads have been changed previously without the computer hookup and the light went away, to which he said "sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn't". Is this a fact? Quite honestly, the light doesn't bother me much, just curious.

ranchero65

Very good write up on front brake job on a 2011 Cayenne by 911SLOW. Thank you (I've yet to find anything on the web about these types of calipers - lots of info on the older style). One question: What size bit is the brake caliper bolt? It looks like a star (Torx - 6 pt) maybe a T55 or T60 or T70. Anyone know? Mine Cayenne is a Turbo with the red calipers and 20" wheels. Also, what is the torque rating on this bolt? Thanks for the help.
Jim in St. Louis.