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Ordered - the standard 2 tube stuff (I think I have some in the garage - but for this job I want fresh..) and the high-heat putty. Both are good to 550F, which is way more than these pipes should ever see..
Add me to the list of failed coolant pipes, 2011 Cayenne S @ 46k miles. I am out of CPO about 3 months ago, i am sure it was loose while in CPO while being serviced at Porsche but under CPO they didnt want to address any issues, prefer Mercedes and Lexus customer service yet prefer Porsche vehicles. I was driving on local roads when the front pipe to the right of the water pump just burst off. Had to have it towed home. Tried JB weld to no avail so just going to replace the proper way. While I was in the process of replacing myself and had everything taken apart I was removing the last electrical connector in the back of the intake manifold and the cotter pin burst of and I have no idea where it went, could of fell into the intake chamber, took a look but didn't see it. Thoughts of what I should do? Magnetic pickup tool? Inspection mirror?
For the epoxy to work, I find it necessary to rough up the inside of the housing with sand paper. Without doing that I expect the epoxy will not bond to housing and pipes will come loose quickly.
I reach in and put some pressure on my pipes to see that they haven't come loose, so far all is good and my fix seems to be working....however, I only have about 600 miles on the repair. This weekend, I expect to put about 1000 miles on it.
Just a note, everyone with the 955/957 should check their center driveshaft support.... mine just failed last week
Add me to the list of failed coolant pipes, 2011 Cayenne S @ 46k miles. I am out of CPO about 3 months ago, i am sure it was loose while in CPO while being serviced at Porsche but under CPO they didnt want to address any issues, prefer Mercedes and Lexus customer service yet prefer Porsche vehicles. I was driving on local roads when the front pipe to the right of the water pump just burst off. Had to have it towed home. Tried JB weld to no avail so just going to replace the proper way. While I was in the process of replacing myself and had everything taken apart I was removing the last electrical connector in the back of the intake manifold and the cotter pin burst of and I have no idea where it went, could of fell into the intake chamber, took a look but didn't see it. Thoughts of what I should do? Magnetic pickup tool? Inspection mirror?
Pictures attached
I would be looking with mechanic's scope.. You should be able to see the valves if you take a look in. Hopefully they're closed and nothing is in the intake port. If they are open - chances are - that clip wouldn't make it through anyway. Thing is - I'm not certain it's magnetic.. there are enough of them in the area so you could test if it is. If it is - the answer is simple - magnetic probe and get it out of there. If it isn't - you need a grabber sort of device to retrieve it.
Chances are - it probably jumped off somewhere and is now buried in the bowels of the engine compartment (you may find it next time you change the oil.. laying in the belly pan..) but - I'd want to check the intake ports on that side and make sure that it didn't jump into one. Might as well check them all since it's apart.
Question on the JBWeld - how did you use it? Curious since today's job is to reinforce mine with a bead of the JBWeld hi-temp putty epoxy, pressed into the junction of the pipe and housing. Mine haven't popped out - yet..
BTW - for anyone contemplating this - that sort of clip is a common Bosch one - and to release the connector you press the clip toward the connector, it's not removed from the connector. Pushing it toward the connector pushes it out of the slots in the other half of the connector that hold it in. If you lose one - they are available - probably even in an auto-parts place like NAPA..
Just a note, everyone should check their center driveshaft support.... mine just failed last week
Glen - don't tease us like that.. This is the very first report I've heard of a center bearing support going bad on a 958.. perhaps you can elucidate in a new thread just for this? Shades of the 955/957 cardan-shaft-bearing-mount..
Lets try and keep this thread on-topic for the failing glued pipes..
As Don said I would check all the intake holes for the clip and see if valves are open ...
I pinned my front pipes with stainless screws and red loctite .. while I had intake out to do the glued pipe at the back that came out ( for that I threaded the hole and had new part machined )
I will be re doing thermostat this week so I will check how they are holding up.
Just to clarify, which coolant pipe typically comes loose? Referring to the bottom photo in post #32 of this thread, I count 3 coolant pipes from left to right. Is one of them more prone to failure?
My 2011 S with 83K miles on it had a failure of the glue (Loctite 638/648) that holds an aluminum coolant pipe into the thermostat housing on the front of the engine. As a result I lost an unknown amount of coolant and the engine temperature rose. I would not be surprised if we start to see more of these failures as our cars age and the glue is exposed to more and more heat cycles.
The reason for this failure was the failing of the glue. Porsche had the exact same problem on GT2/3s and there was an NHTSA investigation. At the end of the investigation, Porsche convinced the NHTSA that there were no safety issues with this failure. The link below at the NHTSA will download a very interesting doc on this. One nugget in here is that 2011-2014 Cayennes and 2010-2014 Panameras used the same glue.
Porsche says that they introduced a glue application metering system to make sure the fittings received the correct amount of glue in 2008 implying that the failures were due to not enough glue being used. Obviously this is not the case.
Also Porsche mentions that there isnt a safety issue because in the GT2/3s the coolant comes out behind the rear wheels - this is obviously not the case for Cayennes and Panameras.
Anyway, if anyone here has had this failure, please post in this thread. If there is enough evidence that this is a big issue, maybe we can get the NHTSA to take a look. One idea would be to build a list of all the failures for all cars that have had this failure - across all Porsche models.
BTW, Porsche has a "fix" for this issue that uses threads instead of glue. Go figure. The cost is $1,800 to have a dealer implement the fix. Ask me how I know.
GlenC I know that this is off topic but could please share part number that you are talking about.
Thank you
For the 955/957, apparently the OEM fix is a new shaft 955.421.020.15, however there are aftermarket fixes available and a cheap DIY alternative I chose to use here
For the 955/957, apparently the OEM fix is a new shaft 955.421.020.15, however there are aftermarket fixes available and a cheap DIY alternative I chose to use here
Glen
2014 - 987
2008 - 957
Hi Glen,
Did you have failure on 957 or 958 ... I don't think that this is an issue on 958...
03-17-2018, 06:50 PM
This is the very first report I've heard of a center bearing support going bad on a 958.. perhaps you can elucidate in a new thread just for this? Shades of the 955/957 cardan-shaft-bearing-mount..
I know that this is off topic but could please share part number that you are talking about.
