Transfer case
06-20-2017, 08:36 PM
#76
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We actually decided to not replace at this point and to wait - flush the TC fluids regularly and delay things a little. That way we can make sure that any replacement is with a rectified unit that is going to last. A TC is supposed to last hundreds of thousands of miles with limited but routine maintenance. Less than 100,000 miles is a joke and I certainly dont want to be staring down the barrel of $4000 in a couple of years time!
I really hope they get on top of this and make sure that this is fixed. From what the specialists were able to get out of Porsche, they suggest it was a bad batch from the manufacturer, who is sorting it out. But without knowing what is bad, why and how they fix it - its all just rumor and conjecture I am afraid.
I really hope they get on top of this and make sure that this is fixed. From what the specialists were able to get out of Porsche, they suggest it was a bad batch from the manufacturer, who is sorting it out. But without knowing what is bad, why and how they fix it - its all just rumor and conjecture I am afraid.
Low mileage problems may be due to contamination (from splashed water on the top vent on the case) or defective machining of the clutch assembly. If it's either of these - the TC probably has to be replaced. Contamination with water will cause rust - probably in the clutch assembly. Defective machining of the clutch assembly will cause erratic operation of the clutch - ie - not smooth and can only be fixed by replacement.
I suspect Porsche has a better handle on what the problem(s) are - but so far their only responses have been the vent kit (which can only be fitted with the TC out) to prevent contamination, and a change in the TC fluid (which may just be due to a vendor change - or could be something significant.)
06-20-2017, 08:47 PM
#77
So far the result is ok. Only done a few hundred miles since so can't really tell. I was suffering a little noise when coming off the the gas which indicated premature wear. When the car is off the ground and doing the tests there was more noise. Nothing bad, but an indication that something is going wrong slowly.
The specialist is a bit of a perfectionist so I do tend to tread carefully, but they said it wasn't that bad at this stage. A flush of the fluid and there is much less noise than before. Hard to tell because I need a smooth road and there aren't that many in CA! But so far it's definitely much quieter.
I am just under the 100k miles though so I guess I am a little higher than normal. But there should be no reason that any transmission parts would be wearing out at this stage in this type of car with this type of gear box. I am hoping it is fine for a bit and I am due for an oil change in a month or so. They will flush the fluid again and check if there is any additional damage.
Had to swallow $4k for a front diff just a month or so ago. So it better last some time before it needs replacing. Can't afford these repair costs!!!!
The specialist is a bit of a perfectionist so I do tend to tread carefully, but they said it wasn't that bad at this stage. A flush of the fluid and there is much less noise than before. Hard to tell because I need a smooth road and there aren't that many in CA! But so far it's definitely much quieter.
I am just under the 100k miles though so I guess I am a little higher than normal. But there should be no reason that any transmission parts would be wearing out at this stage in this type of car with this type of gear box. I am hoping it is fine for a bit and I am due for an oil change in a month or so. They will flush the fluid again and check if there is any additional damage.
Had to swallow $4k for a front diff just a month or so ago. So it better last some time before it needs replacing. Can't afford these repair costs!!!!
06-22-2017, 03:12 PM
#78
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Offagain - thanks for the feedback. That makes 11 out of 11.. that have been helped by a fluid change. I suspect if they flush the fluid again it will be fine for a long time.
06-22-2017, 08:15 PM
#79
Race Car
On my 90k mile 2011 CTT. I was experiencing some slipping from a stop and a jerking when downshifting 4-3 on occasion.
First I changed the TC fluid and used the expensive Porsche branded fluid. It was immediately better, but after 1,000 miles it was slowing starting to show signs of slipping and jerking. No crunching noises, nor abrupt jerking before or after the fluid change.
I changed the fluid a second time using the Ravenol TC fluid ($30 amazon). After the Ravenol change, things improved immediately. And became perfect after approx. 200 miles. It is now operating as it should with fast acceleration from a stop, smooth up/down shifting and all together better.
Just a data point that it took 2 changes for mine to be cured. And I had better luck with Ravenol.
First I changed the TC fluid and used the expensive Porsche branded fluid. It was immediately better, but after 1,000 miles it was slowing starting to show signs of slipping and jerking. No crunching noises, nor abrupt jerking before or after the fluid change.
I changed the fluid a second time using the Ravenol TC fluid ($30 amazon). After the Ravenol change, things improved immediately. And became perfect after approx. 200 miles. It is now operating as it should with fast acceleration from a stop, smooth up/down shifting and all together better.
Just a data point that it took 2 changes for mine to be cured. And I had better luck with Ravenol.
06-22-2017, 08:56 PM
#80
Instructor
Out of curiosity, are you folks changing the fluid yourself or taking it in to a shop?
People say it's easy so I'm debating changing mine when it comes in. I'm not usually a DIYer.
People say it's easy so I'm debating changing mine when it comes in. I'm not usually a DIYer.
06-23-2017, 01:48 AM
#81
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12 out of 12.
I have some Ravenol in the garage. It's probably a case of some residual contamination (clutch lining wear particles) still in the clutch after the first change - and they eventually get washed out into the new oil - but it could also be Ravenol works better.
I'm going to change it again at my next oil change. As far as a DIY - it really IS easy, especially if you have air suspension - you can do it from underneath without the need for a lift or ramps. It's two plugs.
First remove the fill plug (so you're certain you CAN refill it after draining it), then the drain plug (have a container under it capable of holding at least 1 liter of fluid - more will result in less splash). Let it drain.
Replace the drain plug, refill until fluid runs out the fill plug hole, then put the fill plug back in.
The plugs should not be tightened too tight - they go in snug and have sealant on them.
Done. Go out and enjoy it.
I have some Ravenol in the garage. It's probably a case of some residual contamination (clutch lining wear particles) still in the clutch after the first change - and they eventually get washed out into the new oil - but it could also be Ravenol works better.
I'm going to change it again at my next oil change. As far as a DIY - it really IS easy, especially if you have air suspension - you can do it from underneath without the need for a lift or ramps. It's two plugs.
First remove the fill plug (so you're certain you CAN refill it after draining it), then the drain plug (have a container under it capable of holding at least 1 liter of fluid - more will result in less splash). Let it drain.
Replace the drain plug, refill until fluid runs out the fill plug hole, then put the fill plug back in.
The plugs should not be tightened too tight - they go in snug and have sealant on them.
Done. Go out and enjoy it.
06-24-2017, 05:55 PM
#82
if you can turn a hex wrench. Meaning able to rotate your wrist, then you can change the tc oil. The revenol container has its own tubing so you don't even need a pump.
If you're skinny or have the air suspension then you don't even need to jack up the SUV.
Takes 10mins max.
06-24-2017, 09:59 PM
#83
12 out of 12.
I have some Ravenol in the garage. It's probably a case of some residual contamination (clutch lining wear particles) still in the clutch after the first change - and they eventually get washed out into the new oil - but it could also be Ravenol works better.
I'm going to change it again at my next oil change. As far as a DIY - it really IS easy, especially if you have air suspension - you can do it from underneath without the need for a lift or ramps. It's two plugs.
First remove the fill plug (so you're certain you CAN refill it after draining it), then the drain plug (have a container under it capable of holding at least 1 liter of fluid - more will result in less splash). Let it drain.
Replace the drain plug, refill until fluid runs out the fill plug hole, then put the fill plug back in.
The plugs should not be tightened too tight - they go in snug and have sealant on them.
Done. Go out and enjoy it.
I have some Ravenol in the garage. It's probably a case of some residual contamination (clutch lining wear particles) still in the clutch after the first change - and they eventually get washed out into the new oil - but it could also be Ravenol works better.
I'm going to change it again at my next oil change. As far as a DIY - it really IS easy, especially if you have air suspension - you can do it from underneath without the need for a lift or ramps. It's two plugs.
First remove the fill plug (so you're certain you CAN refill it after draining it), then the drain plug (have a container under it capable of holding at least 1 liter of fluid - more will result in less splash). Let it drain.
Replace the drain plug, refill until fluid runs out the fill plug hole, then put the fill plug back in.
The plugs should not be tightened too tight - they go in snug and have sealant on them.
Done. Go out and enjoy it.
06-24-2017, 11:56 PM
#84
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Should be rather obvious..
Just make sure you loosen the fill plug first so you know you can refill it before draining it. Plan on about 0.8 Liters of oil (800cc) draining out. Fill capacity IIRC is 850cc. You fill it until oil starts coming out of the fill hole. Then it's "full"..
And the case is right under the vehicle, almost dead center behind the engine/transmission.
06-25-2017, 12:02 AM
#85
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So far - 12 out of 12 transfer cases where the oil was changed (higher mileage ones > 50k miles) have been "improved".. so far none have reverted to their bad behavior - although in a few cases - a second change some time after the first change was needed for optimal results.
Please let us know your results - I'm keeping score. Batting 1000 so far.
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06-25-2017, 11:26 PM
#86
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2012 CS 39k miles- dx with TC problem. Was told by the dealer 3 or 4 weeks ago that they are on backorder. On Friday was told that they have 3 coming in for folks who were "ahead of me". Hopefully they will get new TC for me soon. I am driving my 911 in the meantime, although SA told me it is safe to drive Cayenne.
06-26-2017, 11:43 AM
#87
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2012 CS 39k miles- dx with TC problem. Was told by the dealer 3 or 4 weeks ago that they are on backorder. On Friday was told that they have 3 coming in for folks who were "ahead of me". Hopefully they will get new TC for me soon. I am driving my 911 in the meantime, although SA told me it is safe to drive Cayenne.
06-26-2017, 01:51 PM
#88
BTW - you may want to read: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-replaced.html
So far - 12 out of 12 transfer cases where the oil was changed (higher mileage ones > 50k miles) have been "improved".. so far none have reverted to their bad behavior - although in a few cases - a second change some time after the first change was needed for optimal results.
Please let us know your results - I'm keeping score. Batting 1000 so far.
So far - 12 out of 12 transfer cases where the oil was changed (higher mileage ones > 50k miles) have been "improved".. so far none have reverted to their bad behavior - although in a few cases - a second change some time after the first change was needed for optimal results.
Please let us know your results - I'm keeping score. Batting 1000 so far.
I've contacted Porsche Customer Relations and opened a case number in hope of some current or future remuneration. Went through my cars (Macan GTS-- which apparently has TC issues too -- and 991 GT3), good customer, etc... but no commitment on their part.
06-26-2017, 03:16 PM
#89
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2012 Cayenne S, around 105k miles, with TC failure. Has been a year in decline in retrospect. Did the oil change and it helped a bit, but not nearly enough to keep it from needing the TC to be replaced. Wife's car, so I wasn't aware of the problem, and into the shop today for the fix.
06-26-2017, 03:54 PM
#90
2012 Cayenne S, around 105k miles, with TC failure. Has been a year in decline in retrospect. Did the oil change and it helped a bit, but not nearly enough to keep it from needing the TC to be replaced. Wife's car, so I wasn't aware of the problem, and into the shop today for the fix.
I've contacted Porsche Customer Relations and opened a case number in hope of some current or future remuneration. Went through my cars (Macan GTS-- which apparently has TC issues too -- and 991 GT3), good customer, etc... but no commitment on their part.
I've contacted Porsche Customer Relations and opened a case number in hope of some current or future remuneration. Went through my cars (Macan GTS-- which apparently has TC issues too -- and 991 GT3), good customer, etc... but no commitment on their part.
