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Brake pad procedure for 2011 Cayenne

 
Old 05-09-2015, 07:38 PM
  #31  
tgavem
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Originally Posted by ranchero65 View Post
Very good write up on front brake job on a 2011 Cayenne by 911SLOW. Thank you (I've yet to find anything on the web about these types of calipers - lots of info on the older style). One question: What size bit is the brake caliper bolt? It looks like a star (Torx - 6 pt) maybe a T55 or T60 or T70. Anyone know? Mine Cayenne is a Turbo with the red calipers and 20" wheels. Also, what is the torque rating on this bolt? Thanks for the help.
Jim in St. Louis.
I think the one you are looking for is the M14 triple square referenced in my thread above.
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Old 11-13-2015, 05:08 PM
  #32  
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Added more photos. Changed the pads today. 30 min per side.
4.0. Turn the wheel so the calipers point outwards.
Remove upper attachment for brake line first.
Then lower.
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Old 11-13-2015, 05:11 PM
  #33  
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More photos
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Old 04-18-2016, 01:29 AM
  #34  
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Smile A few more details

I replaced all 4 pads and rotors on my '11 CS today and these instructions worked pretty well. Here are a couple of additional points:

- the screw that holds in the upper brake line guide on the fronts is, as pointed out by another poster, inaccessible when the wheel is off the ground. You can get to this easily, though, by reaching in above the tire before jacking up the car. I think it's a T30 (closest I had was a T27 and that worked)

- I bought the Lisle 25750 pad spreader since I was afraid my usual tool (a big wood clamp) wouldn't push in the 6-piston calipers. The Lisle didn't work well at all - it was only able to connect with a few MM of pad. The orange Lang tool someone else used looks like it would've worked much better.

- I didn't buy the special pins to support the front rotors. I used a sturdy cardboard box that was the right height to support the rotor and it worked just fine, front and back.

- The rotors are held on by a T50 bolt - I had to run out and buy the socket as I didn't see it mentioned anywhere else.

- The pad warning went away without resetting anything - just replaced the 4 sensors.

Overall, not the easiest brake job I've ever done, but not too bad. Was nice not to have to take the springs out. Took me about 5 hours total, including a good cleaning of all the wheels while off the vehicle, prep, and cleanup. Compared to $2500 at the dealer, I spent $500 in parts and paid myself $400/hour.
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Old 04-18-2016, 11:21 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by tgavem View Post
The guide pin is located in your trunk with the jack or tool kit. It is great aid anytime you remove a tire.
Not on a 2011 CTT (nor on my old '06 /S).. it would be nice, but I ended up ordering a pair from Pelican Parts. They will in the future live next to the other minimalist tools in the spare-tire compartment.

BTW - on a 2011 CTT - torque of the Torx bolts holding the caliper on are 104ft/lbs. Ditto on the wheel lugs - handy - don't have to reset my clicker torque wrench.
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Old 06-11-2016, 11:04 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by tgavem View Post
Rear brakes were easy. Only need to loosen brake pad sensor. Did not need to do anything special for the e-brake
The brake pad clips need to be pushed out in order to thread the sensor through the caliper. A big screw driver and muscle
tgavem - what are the torque vales for the caliper bolts with the silver 958S rotors? having trouble finding a clear answer anywhere. Seems to be 104 ft-lb from what I can tell. Thx!
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Old 06-11-2016, 10:53 PM
  #37  
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Although initially resistant to tell me (they said for safety liability reasons...), my dealer confirmed that silver caliper bolts run same torque as red caliper ones - 104 ft-lb. They added that with the crush bolts, set 90 ft-lbs, wait about 10mins then torque to 104 ft-lb. Brake change was easier than expected with second rear and second front brakes taking 1/3 the time. Changed rotors (Zimmerman Z) and pads (Pagid). Rear rotors also require a 5mm spline bit.
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Old 07-03-2016, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tgavem View Post
Rear brakes were easy. Only need to loosen brake pad sensor. Did not need to do anything special for the e-brake
The brake pad clips need to be pushed out in order to thread the sensor through the caliper. A big screw driver and muscle
in picture 2, what are those little round things on the caliper?

i bought the EBC yellow pads for the cayenne and only have those round metal things on one set of the pads

there are the pads i bought
https://www.shopebcbrakes.com/EBC-Ye...ubmodel12_key=
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Old 07-04-2016, 06:14 PM
  #39  
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[QUOTE=wthayer;13208254

- the screw that holds in the upper brake line guide on the fronts is, as pointed out by another poster, inaccessible when the wheel is off the ground. You can get to this easily, though, by reaching in above the tire before jacking up the car. I think it's a T30 (closest I had was a T27 and that worked).[/QUOTE]


If you turn the wheel all the way left for driver side and all the way right for passenger side with car jacked up and wheel off. These bolts become accessible. Crazy designers and engineers.
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Old 07-05-2016, 01:14 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by sterz85 View Post
in picture 2, what are those little round things on the caliper?

i bought the EBC yellow pads for the cayenne and only have those round metal things on one set of the pads
Vibration dampers - to help prevent squeal. Front brakes on the 2011 turbos (and I'd assume GTS) don't have them, just the rear pads.
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Old 08-12-2016, 01:12 PM
  #41  
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tgavem,

What is this tool for? Piston Compression?

Thanks in advance - Ryan
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Old 08-12-2016, 02:51 PM
  #42  
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Ryan

I actually made it work with a C clamp. Usual pad spreaders don't work. The above can be bought on Amazon.
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Old 09-12-2016, 01:31 AM
  #43  
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tools needed to change the brake pad for 2013 cayenne



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Old 11-07-2016, 12:49 PM
  #44  
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Default Rotor Size

I feel like someone in this thread would be able to answer this question. What is the OEM rotor size for the 2013 Cayenne Base V6, Tiptronic (Black Caliper)? Is it 360mm or 350mm? Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-30-2017, 04:06 PM
  #45  
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I will be changing the pads on my 958.2 ehybrid to a low-dust ceramic pad, and was wondering how difficult it is to remove and replace the pad springs from the caliper. Is this necessary given that my car has 9Kmi and has used mostly regenerative braking? The aftermarket pads I purchased do come with a new set of pad springs.

If the springs need to removed, any tools or techniques to make the process easier and to avoid bending the springs?
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