CD Engine Oil Leak: Does this look normal?
#1
CD Engine Oil Leak: Does this look normal?
Hi - I am trying to get to the bottom of a minor the oil leak (155k on the clock, FPSH – so not too bad. This is the underside (2011 3.0 TD) mid point where the undertrays meet - I think this is where the oil leak is originating but the crunched plastic casing looks distorted. What is it and does it look normal? Thank you
Last edited by intercarte; 09-23-2024 at 03:53 PM.
#2
Hi - I am trying to get to the bottom of a minor the oil leak (155k on the clock, FPSH – so not too bad. This is the underside (2011 3.0 TD) mid point where the undertrays meet - I think this is where the oil leak is originating but the crunched plastic casing looks distorted. What is it and does it look normal? Thank you
my 2016 cd had from valve cover initially, got it fixed and than there was the issue in the valley, where the oil cooler was leaking, I took care of it. So it could be coming down from several places. You can clean it and try to track it down that way.
good luck, hope it helps
#4
RMS
OP,
Your rear main seal is most probably leaking. Engine out job to get it fixed unfortunately but if the leak isn’t that big, just monitor it and let it be.
The “plastic” thing is a rubber seal for the engine timing sensor.
The rear main seal, rear timing chain cover plate, and timing chains should all be replaced or cleaned thoroughly if you’re going to have this fixed. That also means the valve covers will be removed and all the seals, including the diesel injector spacers and retaining bolts, will need to be replaced.
It’s a huge job but very easy once you have the motor out.
Your rear main seal is most probably leaking. Engine out job to get it fixed unfortunately but if the leak isn’t that big, just monitor it and let it be.
The “plastic” thing is a rubber seal for the engine timing sensor.
The rear main seal, rear timing chain cover plate, and timing chains should all be replaced or cleaned thoroughly if you’re going to have this fixed. That also means the valve covers will be removed and all the seals, including the diesel injector spacers and retaining bolts, will need to be replaced.
It’s a huge job but very easy once you have the motor out.
#5
Quite expensive. If you remove the bottom engine cover under the car and look around above the oil drain plug you probably will be able to see the oil leaking from the rms if that is what is leaking. The oil dries up on the engine cover so you usually don's see leaks on the ground. The leaks were covered with the dieselgate extended warranty but since you have 155k you are way out of warranty. There were lots of leaks on these 3.0 motors but I think the later ones were not prone to leak. My 2013 leaked at about 50k and was repaired by the dealer under the warranty.
#6
Open wallet, hand over $8k - 10k and all will be good. Do timing chains, adjusters, leaking coolant pipes, clean or replace egr systems and injectors and replace every gasket while in there. If you intend to keep the car. If not dump it or trade it.