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I recently purchased a 2013 Cayenne 6 speed manual with 192k miles from an auction. Porsche dealership picked it up to do the T-case and it threw a rod while they were driving it to the dealership for service. I am looking to get a lower mileage engine to throw in it and would like to know if anyone has a lead on a wrecked one from which I can get an engine.
Sorry, I don’t have any leads on a new engine but, would be interested to hear if you got any specifics from the dealership of how that happened. I understand it’s high miles but, that seems like an unusual failure from high mileage. Seems more likely from a money shift being a manual.
I’m obviously not saying that is the only possible cause of failing a rod in that manner but, I’d want to see PIWIS data from when the CEL came on and leading up to if it’s available. This is all assuming you’ve been driving it a bit since buying it and it wasn’t obvious that it was about to blow up.
Last edited by hotrod2448; 09-26-2021 at 09:04 AM.
@hotrod2448 I bought it and owned it for one month. I drove it off the transport vehicle and then once around town after doing an oil change. It didn't have the CEL on at all. It arrived with a bad ABS sensor that I fixed. The oil in it seemed fresh but low when it arrived. My suspicion is that poor oil change intervals or the wrong oil weight resulted in a failed conrod bearing. I assume this was a known issue as the only piece of paper in the car was a business card from a service tech from a Porsche dealership in fort Wayne, Indiana.
The 3.6 seems to be the same block and head as the touareg so if I can't find a 958 m52.02, I'll source at t-reg motor and swap the intake manifold and the flywheel to fit the 958 manual
The VW 3.6 is going to probably be 100x easier to find, and cheaper. I'd save the m52 head just in-case. I think it is slightly different since the intake on the porsche is different.
I agree that the t-reg engine will be an easier find. From the research I have done, I will need to swap the intake manifold but the heads should be the same. The wiring harness routes in a slightly different manner too and given the t-regs came only in an automatic, I will have to reuse the cayenne harness. I'll update this thread as I get more information. I figure that not too many people will care to deal with this level of repair on their own.
I had already disconnected the battery and I am in the process of taking the engine out. I will take and upload pictures as an FYI for anyone that is interested. I purchased a used treg motor last week and I am waiting for it to arrive. I will have to swap over the harness and the intake manifold. I know the intake manifold requires servicing the injectors so this will be a good month long process once the replacement engine is here. I'm also going to be replacing the rear main seal as added "insurance" before the install
@dmppdx I rebuilt wrecked cars to pay for parts of undergrad and grad school. I am not a trained/certified tech by any means but I've owned and rebuilt over 20 VW/Audi cars and that number is closer to 40 when including non-vw european vehicles. I've done engine replacements and even converted my 96 land rover discovery to a manual from an automatic. I knew I'd eventually need to put in an engine. I just didn't think it would be a month into ownership.
While you are waiting - order yourself and Chinese clone PIWIS 2 head and there are instructions floating on how to download a VMware based vm for Piwis software. You will need it to code back various bits. $400 well spent.
Sorry, I don’t have any leads on a new engine but, would be interested to hear if you got any specifics from the dealership of how that happened. I understand it’s high miles but, that seems like an unusual failure from high mileage. Seems more likely from a money shift being a manual.
I’m obviously not saying that is the only possible cause of failing a rod in that manner but, I’d want to see PIWIS data from when the CEL came on and leading up to if it’s available. This is all assuming you’ve been driving it a bit since buying it and it wasn’t obvious that it was about to blow up.
Regardless of engine make or year, in almost every case where a rod breaks, the direct cause was lack of oil at the rod bearing. That might have been due to very low oil level, broken oil pump, or a serious restriction to oil flow.
A post mortem may or may not reveal the exact cause.
I finally got the engine out yesterday. Below are some pics of the progress. Next steps are to order a clutch kit since it is out. Any recommendations on what clutch kit to get and what vendor? I don't need anything special. Just don't want to spend an arm at the dealership.
09-26-2021, 06:02 AM
3.6 V6 Engine Swap
