Transmission fluid change procedure
07-12-2019, 06:39 PM
#16
Good to know the approximate DIY cost for this. I was going to actually start looking this up. First I want to find out all the detailed service info on my CS. Just a matter of driving out to a dealer in CT.
07-13-2019, 10:11 PM
#18
Instructor
You guys should check out the ClubTouareg procedure. Far easier and a superior result.
Basically you have 2 buckets and you disconnect the fittings on the oil cooler. You put a hose on each line and you run one to your drain bucket and suspend the other bucket with the new fluid. You run the car for a few seconds and it pumps out a liter or two. Then you shut it off and let the new fluid gravity fill back to the pan. The pump is forcing fluid out much quicker than the new fluid gravity drains back to the trans. You repeat this until you see fresh fluid coming out the drain line. It should take you about 12L total.
It will replace all of the fluid in the trans system, except for 0.7L in the oil cooler. If you drop the pan the best you can hope for is about 7L, which means there is 4-5L of old fluid still in the system. It takes much less time too; even going slow you can get it done in about 90 minutes. Most guys are only measuring what they removed and replacing the exact amount. I would still recommend you do the fill procedure, since you don't really know that the original fill amount was correct.
The filter is just a wire mesh, so it's not like an engine oil filter with fine filtration. It just filters out any large pieces. I wouldn't bother replacing it every time. The only thing that would be useful to do that necessitates dropping the pan is the check/clean the 4 magnets in the pan.
Basically you have 2 buckets and you disconnect the fittings on the oil cooler. You put a hose on each line and you run one to your drain bucket and suspend the other bucket with the new fluid. You run the car for a few seconds and it pumps out a liter or two. Then you shut it off and let the new fluid gravity fill back to the pan. The pump is forcing fluid out much quicker than the new fluid gravity drains back to the trans. You repeat this until you see fresh fluid coming out the drain line. It should take you about 12L total.
It will replace all of the fluid in the trans system, except for 0.7L in the oil cooler. If you drop the pan the best you can hope for is about 7L, which means there is 4-5L of old fluid still in the system. It takes much less time too; even going slow you can get it done in about 90 minutes. Most guys are only measuring what they removed and replacing the exact amount. I would still recommend you do the fill procedure, since you don't really know that the original fill amount was correct.
The filter is just a wire mesh, so it's not like an engine oil filter with fine filtration. It just filters out any large pieces. I wouldn't bother replacing it every time. The only thing that would be useful to do that necessitates dropping the pan is the check/clean the 4 magnets in the pan.
07-13-2019, 11:14 PM
#19
You guys should check out the ClubTouareg procedure. Far easier and a superior result.
Basically you have 2 buckets and you disconnect the fittings on the oil cooler. You put a hose on each line and you run one to your drain bucket and suspend the other bucket with the new fluid. You run the car for a few seconds and it pumps out a liter or two. Then you shut it off and let the new fluid gravity fill back to the pan. The pump is forcing fluid out much quicker than the new fluid gravity drains back to the trans. You repeat this until you see fresh fluid coming out the drain line. It should take you about 12L total.
It will replace all of the fluid in the trans system, except for 0.7L in the oil cooler. If you drop the pan the best you can hope for is about 7L, which means there is 4-5L of old fluid still in the system. It takes much less time too; even going slow you can get it done in about 90 minutes. Most guys are only measuring what they removed and replacing the exact amount. I would still recommend you do the fill procedure, since you don't really know that the original fill amount was correct.
The filter is just a wire mesh, so it's not like an engine oil filter with fine filtration. It just filters out any large pieces. I wouldn't bother replacing it every time. The only thing that would be useful to do that necessitates dropping the pan is the check/clean the 4 magnets in the pan.
Basically you have 2 buckets and you disconnect the fittings on the oil cooler. You put a hose on each line and you run one to your drain bucket and suspend the other bucket with the new fluid. You run the car for a few seconds and it pumps out a liter or two. Then you shut it off and let the new fluid gravity fill back to the pan. The pump is forcing fluid out much quicker than the new fluid gravity drains back to the trans. You repeat this until you see fresh fluid coming out the drain line. It should take you about 12L total.
It will replace all of the fluid in the trans system, except for 0.7L in the oil cooler. If you drop the pan the best you can hope for is about 7L, which means there is 4-5L of old fluid still in the system. It takes much less time too; even going slow you can get it done in about 90 minutes. Most guys are only measuring what they removed and replacing the exact amount. I would still recommend you do the fill procedure, since you don't really know that the original fill amount was correct.
The filter is just a wire mesh, so it's not like an engine oil filter with fine filtration. It just filters out any large pieces. I wouldn't bother replacing it every time. The only thing that would be useful to do that necessitates dropping the pan is the check/clean the 4 magnets in the pan.
07-14-2019, 01:56 AM
#20
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02-03-2022, 04:35 AM
#22
Advanced
$415 complete kit, Porsche parts @ Porsche marine, DIY and $50 kit to fill, labor is free, WFH ... Porsche Dealer charges $1k that's why they don't recommend to change fluid less than 120K per spec.
02-03-2022, 10:46 AM
#23
I did the two bucket method Yani mentioned above. It looks a bit like you are trying to build a liquor still in the garage but, it works well enough.
02-03-2022, 10:56 AM
#24
Advanced
02-03-2022, 02:47 PM
#25
Now, I'm looking back at this post. I recommend that no one here go to BodyMotion terrible shop. Ever! Unless you want nothing done and get ripped off.
Although, maybe they know how to change oil. They definitely have no clue on troubleshooting complex issues.
I had to figure out a steering wobble myself after these idiots rotated wheels and balanced them, even though I said it was already done.
To make things worse, mechanic didn't even drive the car before putting it on lift. Just drove after and said its "better" after balancing. Better as compared to what? Stay away and sorry for the rant.
BodyMotion in Ocean Twp, NJ is GARBAGE shop.
Although, maybe they know how to change oil. They definitely have no clue on troubleshooting complex issues.
I had to figure out a steering wobble myself after these idiots rotated wheels and balanced them, even though I said it was already done.
To make things worse, mechanic didn't even drive the car before putting it on lift. Just drove after and said its "better" after balancing. Better as compared to what? Stay away and sorry for the rant.
BodyMotion in Ocean Twp, NJ is GARBAGE shop.
02-03-2022, 03:40 PM
#26
Race Director
wow, surprised about the Bodymotion review. They are a well known and respect shop that does a lot of race car prep. Sorry to hear that you had a bad experience, but really, shops in general nowadays just seem to suck.
02-04-2022, 11:00 AM
#27
In the end I found the issue myself, it was my lower balljoints that were lose and these people couldn't find that. It could just be the mechanic that worked my my car. But in the end, they charged me $275 for wasted 2 hours, tire rotation and balance and rushed me out saying I just need tires, that's all