twodollardoug

To be honest, my CTT had no leaks. I recently bought the car with 58K miles on the clock and just turned over 60K. So as a preemptive measure and a little mission creep I dove in and took care of all the potential coolant leaks. My thinking behind the project was to take it apart once. So this DIY will cover Disassembly down to the bottom of the V. Then building it back up. Checking the rear crossover pipe, replacing the cylinder head vent tube, JB welding the thermostat housing, installing a new thermostat, installing a new water pump, replacing all the pulleys, serpentine belt, and tensioner.

This won"t be a step by step tutorial but close. I strongly suggest an ALLDATA subscription for this job. I referenced it quite a bit for torque specs, serpentine belt routing, fuel rail tightening sequence and intake manifold tighening sequence. What was most helpful was the pictures I took along the way. Being able to zoom in and look at the way the little hoses were routed and the wiring harnesses were routed was invaluable. It all went back together just the way the factory did it and I didn't make any mistakes.

Here is the parts list:

Torque Arm (to replace those single use aluminum bolts and nuts)
1. 1- 10x90x1.25 grade 10.9 flange bolt
2. 1- 10x70x1.25 grade 10.9 flange bolt
3. 2- 10x1.25 flange nuts

Water Pump
1. 1- aluminum water pump pulley URO pn/ 94810609101
2. 1- water pump 948.106.033.01 (comes with gasket)
3. 2- t-stat housing o-rings 948.106.124.02
4. 1- t-stat 948.106.034.03 (comes with o-rings)
5. 2- o-rings for the pipe that comes out of the back of the t-stat housing 999.707.477.40
6. 1- cylinder head vent tube 948.106.026.22 (comes with o-rings)

Serpentine Belt
1. 1- serpentine belt 7PP.903.137
2. 1- tensioner pulley 948.102.403.23 (comes with cap)
3. 1- tensioner 948.102.261.21
4. 1- idler pulley right 948.102.118.21 (comes with cap)
5. 1- idler pulley left 7PP.145.276 (comes with cap)

Oil Separator
1. 1- oil separator gasket 948.107.437.20 (corrected)
2. 1- oil separator gasket 948.107.438.20 (corrected)

Intake Manifold
1. 8- intake manifold gaskets 948.110.146.01
2. 1- throttle body o-ring (can't find the number)
3. 1- Y piece to throttle body(can't find the number)

Misc.
1. 2- bottles of Zerex G-40

Tools
1. torx socket set
2. female torx socket set
3. schwaben coolant refill kit
4. female torx wrench set
5. regular metric wrenches and socket set
6. 19mm crows foot
7. screw driver set
8. painters tape (to cover holes)

Lets begin. Again, I suggest taking pictures (different angles) of each step. Especially in the beginning because there are a lot of small hoses that need to be moved around.


I started with the Y piece. I for the life of me couldn't figure out how to disconnect the the fitting on the bottom. This guy....

So I removed it with it intact. I first removed the accordion hoses, then pulled the 1/4 turn pins that hold the Y-piece to the throttle body. There is a hose that comes off the bottom of the funky connector on the bottom of the Y that runs down close to the left valve cover. It connects to a hard line with one of those single use hose clamps. I had to cut that hose clamp off to disconnect it. I replaced it with a regular worm type hose clamp. See the hard line to the left/bottom of the valve cover?

If I remember correctly, I had to roll the Y-piece toward the front of the car to get it off. Pay close attention to the way the small hoses behind the Y are routed and attached to their little holder in there. Lots of pictures from different angles will pay dividends if you want it to go back like the factory had it. Don't count on my pictures.
Y-piece removed

Time to remove the throttle body. First undo the electrical connector.

Then remove the throttle body. It has long torx screws. Here it is removed.

Now you have to remove the oil separator and its hoses. One hose runs to the front of the intake manifold, the PCV valve (I think), and one hose runs down to the right, between the front of the engine and the radiator. They are pretty easy to remove. The hoses have those squeeze connectors that you have to pinch and pull.




The oil separator has to different o-ring/gaskets that get replaced when it goes back on.

Slickdvl

Rest still uploading?

twodollardoug

Tomorrow. I'm gonna have to do it in parts.... Plus, I was afraid of one wrong key stroke and losing what I had written. I wanted to get the part numbers out there so you can make sure that you have everything before you get started.

deilenberger

Looking good Doug.. so far I'm thinking it was worth the money to have the dealer do the thermostat housing.. I also couldn't get that damn thing off the bottom of the Y intake connector...

140.6er

Great job Doug, please keep going. Love this stuff.

140.6er

I have all parts to do plugs and SERP belt. I’m at 66,000 miles, do you guys think I should also do the Water pump, therm and coolant tube fix while I’m at it?

Slickdvl

Thankfully I’ve got a whole new manifold and TB as well as thermostat housing and thermostat. Don’t have to separate and pull things apart - especially the thermostat
also, keep in mind some of the parts May be outdated - I.e my pump is a newer version

Slickdvl

water pump - depends on how long you’re gonna keep it and if you plan on doing any work in that area in the future. I’ve read that typically 100k is the service period for it - but last longer. Thermostat housing should be done IMO along with new thermostat - one less thing to separate. I also ordered the new vent line that looks like a Y under the fuel lines that tends to deteriorate.
note however that doing plugs doesn’t require you take off the manifold or TB, so again, up to you. You could would until the next time your plugs are due, like 100k

Tryfon

At 106k+ now, no pump or housing failure yet. I've got my fingers crossed on it. ('12 CS)

twodollardoug

If you have gotten this far hopefully you have been covering all of your open holes with your painters tape. Chances are your engine is dirty and you don't want any dust or dirt falling into places it shouldn't. I use painters tape for the flat surfaces and for open hoses i use sandwich baggies with a rubber band over the open hoses.

We are getting close to removing the intake manifold. At the base of the manifold on the passenger side, there is a hose with a valve on the end of it that needs to be removed. For those that don't know, it's the valve that goes clackity clack. If you haven't seen it I'm sure you've heard it. If I remember correctly the valve is held on with a rubber isolater. Just pull it straight up off of its support. The other end of the pipe is held together with one of those pinch quick disconnects. Sorry, I didn't get a photo of this pipe but you can't miss it. You can't get to the intake manifold bolts with it in place.

Now you can prep for the manifold removal. On the back of the manifold, about half way up, right in the middle of it is a small U shaped hose. Its a little guy and has NO kind of clamp. It simply pulls off. There is also one electrical connector on the manifold that needs to be undone. It is on the drivers side, in the back, near the base of the manifold. The manifold should be ready for removal now. This is what I did. There are 10 bolts I believe, that hold the manifold down. I looked up the tightening sequence on alldata and loosened the bolts in that sequence. I also loosened them a little at a time. Maybe a quarter turn each until they were all well loose. this might be overkill but my thinking for loosening the bolts this way was to keep any distortion to the mating surface to a minimum. And it worked. It surely didn't hurt. The manifold base bolts are held captive and won't come completely out. Then just lift the manifold straight up and pull it out. Make sure you lift it up far enough that those captive bolts don't drag across the mating surfaces. It would suck to put a big scratch across the mating surfaces.

And waalaa,

My next step was to pull the radiator hoses and drain the coolant. Your going to need something to catch the coolant under the car. It's going to be a bit messy so it is what it is. Starting with the drivers side of radiator pull the connector that holds the hose to the radiator and let it dump.(you should have a couple open hoses down there between the fans and engine so bag and rubber band them so you don't get any coolant in them) on the other end pull the spring clip back and twist the hose off the t-stat housing. The other big hose I just removed the t-stat end and folded it back towards the passenger side air filter box.

In between and below the two aluminum pipes is the water pump and the actual t-stat. That wire and connector is attached the the actual t-stat. Detach the electrical connector.

At this point I switched gears and worked on the back of the engine. I fully intended to remove the back crossover pipe and JB weld the glued pipe. I removed the high pressure fuel pump and was able to get a good look the crossover pipe and low and behold my car was fitted with the updated version WHEW! What a relief it was to see that. Because I truly didn't know how I was going to get it out of there. We talked about it in another thread a none of the options were good short of removing the engine. The firewall wall that is behind the engine is actually a false firewall that is removable. Just removing that false firewall would be a major project in itself. The next option would be to repair it in place, which has its own DIY already. But one option I didn't explore was going through the fender wells.When I found out I had the updated version, I let out a big sigh of relief and stopped there. Removing the high pressure fuel pump was not necessary in my case but I will go through the steps anyways. Because If you do have to repair or replace that crossover tube the HPFP will have to come out anyways. That will be tomorrow nights project.

Slickdvl

Any plans to clean out the ports - hard to tell from your pictures - but I'm guessing my car will have some decent build up with 100k. I may use an old electric toothbrush with some cleaner to clean out the carbon build up.
Also had trouble finding some of those parts - they seem to be outdated. For example I can't find anything on the air oil separator gaskets - may call ECS in the morning to find the updated part numbers (as well as some other parts for diff and tcase fluid changes).
I see 3 jugs of coolant...but your instructions call for 2. Is that just for backup? I bought 2 Porsche official coolant jugs - which I believe is concentrate and to be mixed to create 4 jugs total of coolant.
Are you not changing out the tstat housing? It looks like you have the original (granted it looks intact).

twodollardoug

My ports and valves were clean so I didn't bother. I got my parts from sonnen. They are in the emissions section I believe. If you search my pn's in there search bar they will come up. Good eye. I did buy 3 jugs of coolant but used less than 2.

jqpd99

Subscribed! Awesome thread!

Stupid question however... with heat cycles, won't the JB Weld's grip let go over time? I would have imagined there is enough meat there to drill/thread/seal a set screw that would fix the problem permanently, no?

DF

twodollardoug

That is a great question.... I did think about the heat cycling. I have a little experience with JBWeld on broken motorcycle cases and on other stuff and never had a problem. My buddy even fixed a hole in the top of piston on his mini bike with it. And it is still running to this day. It was supposed to be a temporary fix. So I am pretty confident in it. As far as the set screw goes, I have seen others use that method and for sure it will keep the pipe from coming out but I don't see it preventing leaks. I even thought about tig welding the pipes to the housing, but without knowing what type of aluminum they were made of I was worried about them cracking down the road. For sure, the best option is to buy the revised t-stat housing. And if I wasn't confident in the JBWeld I would have. But it was kind of expensive and I thought the money was better spent on the other parts.

twodollardoug

Are you guys still with me? I know this looks like a daunting task, but it's really not. It's just nuts and bolts. The way I see it is.... I know a man put it together, so I can take it apart and put it back together. I have two hands just like him. And up to this point I think I'm about four hours into it. I think it took just as long stopping for pictures and bagging and tagging all my nuts and bolts I took off.

So lets take apart the fuel system. ALLDATA does a pretty good job detailing how to take off the high pressure fuel pump so I will just hit the highlights. The HPFP is on the drivers rear end of the cylinder head. It's the thing with the little dash pot looking thing on it in the picture. There is a small wire harness that runs across the top of it so you will have unplug the connectors and move the harness out of the way. On the back of the pump itself is a metal crash plate. That will be the first thing that needs to be removed. This job is done from under the car. There are three bolts that have to be removed to get the plate off. The bolts actually thread into long hexagonal shafts that hold the fuel pump to the head. So with the crash plate removed the fuel pump will still be attached to the head. Not until you remove the hexagonal shafts will the fuel pump actually be free from the head. We will get to that later. I'm not gonna lie. Removing the crash plate sucks. This is one of those jobs that has to be done by feel. I have a 10mm ratcheting wrench that was real helpful. Once the plate is removed I recommend undoing the fuel lines before actually loosening the pump from the head. Once the fuel lines are loose go ahead and remove the two long hex bolts and the one regular bolt that is underneath the fuel pump. push the fuel pump back toward the firewall and lift it up so you can undo the electrical connector. Once the connector is undone you can rotate the pump and remove it from the car. Now stick your finger in the hole the fuel pump shaft just came out of and feel for a broken feel for a broken piece of plastic. If it's not broken you just saved yourself 70 bucks. There is a small plastic piece in that hole that Porsche calls the "stopper". it hold a cog type thing that is the interface between the camshaft and the HPFP shaft. I had a "stopper" on hand but didn't have to use so I returned it. You are gonna crap yourself when you see what your 70 dollars gets you..... Anyways, your probably wondering about that 3rd hexagonal shaft that's in that area. That holds the bracket for the fuel rail. go ahead and remove it because the fuel rail is next. let me get these picures of the fuel pump and crash plate up before I get to far ahead.....

I need to back up. At this point I could get a good view of the crossover pipe. And this is the point where I was going to have to make a decision. Leave it as is, remember mine wasn't leaking. or spend a WHOLE extra day fighting to get it out of there. At this time I hadn't thought of going through the fender well. I consider myself an average backyard mechanic and was pretty worried that I was going to have to abandon this part of the project. Some of you may remember my frantic post about the crossover pipe while I has having my little crisis. Come to find out my crossover pipe was the updated version as you can see from the picture. If you look at the photo where the bigger black pipe makes its connection, it looks like it connects to a big aluminum hex nut. That is the threaded nipple that threads into cast crossover pipe. No famous glued in pipe. Now.... our our fantastic moderator thinks that it may have been updated after the fact. And he may be right. But this car has never had any work done outside of a Porsche dealership and I have all the service records and there is no mention of this being complained about or repaired. And if someone DID replace it, well I would like to meet the man because he is a magician. He didn't break a single tie wrap, or leave any dents or scratches in that textured heat shield, or greasy finger prints anywhere. I don't care if it came from the factory updated or if someone else did the work. I know it was already done and I didn't have to deal with it.

Hears a picture of what I saw.

Lets remove the fuel rail. It's the stainless steel spider looking thing.

First thing. Undo the electrical connector. Then take you 19mm wrench and loosen all 8 of the fittings. Make sure the are all completely unscrewed. They should be free to slide up and down the pipe they connect. The feed is already free. You undid it from the HPFP. If you chose not to remove the HPFP then undo the feed now. There are four torx screws that hold the spider to the block. The front two are easy. The rear two are not bad either but more care has to be taken. I needed a long extension to get them. And had to climb on top of the engine. You are taping up and plugging all your open hole I hope. Don't drop either of those rear screws. Ask me how I know. They will fall right in the V under the starter. I didn't drop any during removal but I dropped the passenger rear bolt twice. It took me a half hour each time to get them out each time. Not fun. The good thing is they are steel. So I wised up and took a neodymium magnet and put it on the extension and that held the screw to my socket. Next time I will use this method when taking the screws out. I got lucky during the removal. Not so lucky on the install. Anyways, the fuel rail is totally free but your thinking, how the hell do I get it out of there. Its easy. While lifting it up, rotate it 90 degrees while lifting and it comes right out. ALLDATA shows this technique also. Of course I didn't see it until I had already installed it and was looking for the torque specs. At this point STOP! Tape, bag, do what ever you have to do to cover those injector holes.

We are finally to the bottom of the V. Tomorrow we finally get to do what we have done all this work for. Correct Porsche's mistake.