Ignition Coils Brands
#32
Rennlist Member
Mine came to 17/19 mpg , it is 16 CTT with these Denso plugs and cosmo racing plugs
i always drive hard when possible .
yesterday was driving around town with very little highway here is the PCC trip screen
i always drive hard when possible .
yesterday was driving around town with very little highway here is the PCC trip screen
#33
Looks like you should fill up soon.
I'm going to try and get the Bosch plugs soon and see if there is a difference. The only thing I'd like to do before all this is drop by the dealer where the car used to go and pull up full detailed repair and maintenance history so I have a base point understanding of what was already done and what wasn't. Maybe the plugs and coils were done just before I got the car and don't even need changing.
#34
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Spring Lake, NJ, US of A
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Don't bother with the coils. The one you show in the photo above is the newest revision. I installed 8 of them today (well, my mechanic friend did..) after during a plug change we found 7 cracked coils. No misfiring - they hadn't started absorbing moisture yet and swelling up (my mechanic has taken them apart to see what fails - the crack lets moisture into the coil core laminations, which happily rust and start pushing on the windings eventually causing them to fail.. which is why swollen ones are the ones that failed..)
Anyway - my old ones were 948.602.104.11 - the new ones right from the dealer 948.602.104.14 - and I know they're the newest - the dealership just moved into their new building and restocked the entire parts department about 3 months ago. Anyway - if you don't have cracks - yours are probably fine. Hook up your diagnostics - any misfires will be shown. Mine have been at 0 for ages.
Anyway - my old ones were 948.602.104.11 - the new ones right from the dealer 948.602.104.14 - and I know they're the newest - the dealership just moved into their new building and restocked the entire parts department about 3 months ago. Anyway - if you don't have cracks - yours are probably fine. Hook up your diagnostics - any misfires will be shown. Mine have been at 0 for ages.
#35
Don't bother with the coils. The one you show in the photo above is the newest revision. I installed 8 of them today (well, my mechanic friend did..) after during a plug change we found 7 cracked coils. No misfiring - they hadn't started absorbing moisture yet and swelling up (my mechanic has taken them apart to see what fails - the crack lets moisture into the coil core laminations, which happily rust and start pushing on the windings eventually causing them to fail.. which is why swollen ones are the ones that failed..)
Anyway - my old ones were 948.602.104.11 - the new ones right from the dealer 948.602.104.14 - and I know they're the newest - the dealership just moved into their new building and restocked the entire parts department about 3 months ago. Anyway - if you don't have cracks - yours are probably fine. Hook up your diagnostics - any misfires will be shown. Mine have been at 0 for ages.
Anyway - my old ones were 948.602.104.11 - the new ones right from the dealer 948.602.104.14 - and I know they're the newest - the dealership just moved into their new building and restocked the entire parts department about 3 months ago. Anyway - if you don't have cracks - yours are probably fine. Hook up your diagnostics - any misfires will be shown. Mine have been at 0 for ages.
#36
Three Wheelin'
Don't bother with the coils. The one you show in the photo above is the newest revision. I installed 8 of them today (well, my mechanic friend did..) after during a plug change we found 7 cracked coils. No misfiring - they hadn't started absorbing moisture yet and swelling up (my mechanic has taken them apart to see what fails - the crack lets moisture into the coil core laminations, which happily rust and start pushing on the windings eventually causing them to fail.. which is why swollen ones are the ones that failed..)
Anyway - my old ones were 948.602.104.11 - the new ones right from the dealer 948.602.104.14 - and I know they're the newest - the dealership just moved into their new building and restocked the entire parts department about 3 months ago. Anyway - if you don't have cracks - yours are probably fine. Hook up your diagnostics - any misfires will be shown. Mine have been at 0 for ages.
Anyway - my old ones were 948.602.104.11 - the new ones right from the dealer 948.602.104.14 - and I know they're the newest - the dealership just moved into their new building and restocked the entire parts department about 3 months ago. Anyway - if you don't have cracks - yours are probably fine. Hook up your diagnostics - any misfires will be shown. Mine have been at 0 for ages.
#39
Three Wheelin'
#40
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Spring Lake, NJ, US of A
Posts: 10,085
Received 1,140 Likes
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There are lots of pics on the forum of them.. a bit of poking around will turn them up. The crack can't be seen without coil removal. They crack on the plastic covering the body/shaft of the coil - not in the head region. It's an in-line crack, from top to usually about where the step in the shaft is. In the case of some coils - if the coil is cool when you remove it - the crack may be very difficult to spot. I believe the crack opens up as the core of the coil heats up.. Once one cracks - the other ones probably aren't far behind it, so best bet is to bite the bullet and just replace them since the labor to check them/vs/replace is the same. At least my dealer has them in stock and Worldpac (large foreign car parts distributor lots of shops use) can get them in 1 day - they get them from Porsche (and price them at Porsche retail price..) If you aren't in a rush - they can be found considerably cheaper at some on-line Porsche dealers (like $42 on-line vs $60 retail local..) And you might as well get some hexoglobular screws too.. just for the ones that go missing down into the depths of the engine compartment.
#41
Three Wheelin'
There are lots of pics on the forum of them.. a bit of poking around will turn them up. The crack can't be seen without coil removal. They crack on the plastic covering the body/shaft of the coil - not in the head region. It's an in-line crack, from top to usually about where the step in the shaft is. In the case of some coils - if the coil is cool when you remove it - the crack may be very difficult to spot. I believe the crack opens up as the core of the coil heats up.. Once one cracks - the other ones probably aren't far behind it, so best bet is to bite the bullet and just replace them since the labor to check them/vs/replace is the same. At least my dealer has them in stock and Worldpac (large foreign car parts distributor lots of shops use) can get them in 1 day - they get them from Porsche (and price them at Porsche retail price..) If you aren't in a rush - they can be found considerably cheaper at some on-line Porsche dealers (like $42 on-line vs $60 retail local..) And you might as well get some hexoglobular screws too.. just for the ones that go missing down into the depths of the engine compartment.
#43
Plugs and coils suitability make a huge difference in performance.
These dyno runs before and after plugs and coils only " tune is yet to come", however i suspected my old plugs were gapped for the NA engine @ 1.6mm.
Stock coils are ok and you still going to see minor improvement with them on the Denso plugs " i have used this set up on previous CS "
the IKH22 Denso gap is .031 " or 8 mm " one step cooler than stock " , the stock plug for the 2016 CTT has a gap of .027 " or 7 mm.
in any case i would not re gap the Denso ones..
Just make sure to clean the thread in the cylinder head very good and never use any kind of lubricant or anti/never seize products.
use calibrated torque wrench and torque the plugs cold to 22 lb.ft.
These dyno runs before and after plugs and coils only " tune is yet to come", however i suspected my old plugs were gapped for the NA engine @ 1.6mm.
Stock coils are ok and you still going to see minor improvement with them on the Denso plugs " i have used this set up on previous CS "
the IKH22 Denso gap is .031 " or 8 mm " one step cooler than stock " , the stock plug for the 2016 CTT has a gap of .027 " or 7 mm.
in any case i would not re gap the Denso ones..
Just make sure to clean the thread in the cylinder head very good and never use any kind of lubricant or anti/never seize products.
use calibrated torque wrench and torque the plugs cold to 22 lb.ft.
#44
Rennlist Member
I'm always wary to at least check that the gap is the same on all plus before installation. And also, never use any lubricant or anti seize?! Are you mad, good sir?! Lol dielectric boot grease for the plug-to-coil connection and a little anti-seize around the plug threads never hurt anything. Have you ever stripped the threads on the head or had a stuck plug/coil boot? NO FUN! lol
The dielectric grease certainly never hurts though!
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