High Coolant Consumption
I have a 2015 Cayenne S with about 30k miles. The red warning message came up telling me coolant was low couple of days ago. I looked at the coolant reservoir and did see that the coolant level was way below the MIN line. Brought it into the dealer and they weren't able to find any leaks. So, they just refilled it and sent me on my way. All they said was to monitor it closely to see if the level goes back down soon before taking it seriously. It just seems odd to me that the coolant would be so low after only 30k. I've owned countless vehicles and never encountered this issue at such low mileage (unless there was a leak). Has anyone run into this same issue on their Cayenne?
-porschedad_73 |
I have a ‘16 base. It does a similar thing. I have about 43,000 miles on it now and either the dealer or myself have to top it off about once a year or so. It first happened at about 25,000.Doesn’t take much to top it off. They can’t find anything wrong and say it’s quite common. My ‘11 997.2 does it as well but to a significantly lesser degree. I have owned 10 mercedes over 30 years and never add a drop. My wife’s is now 16 years old and never added a drop but due for a flush. I keep a log of the adds to my Cayenne just in case. |
My 2011 S has been back to the dealer 3 times for disappearing coolant. Mine was the thermostat seal that had to be replaced twice along with the thermostat housing. I think they are prone to leaking and because they leak in the “V” of the engine it’s hard to see. I could always smell coolant and it leaked much worse in the cold weather. It just came back from being repaired a week ago hopefully they got it this time. I think it’s a substandard design to be honest, not sure if the V6 is the same. |
No the VR6 doesn’t have that issue. |
Originally Posted by Cosmo Kramer
(Post 15622090)
My 2011 S has been back to the dealer 3 times for disappearing coolant. Mine was the thermostat seal that had to be replaced twice along with the thermostat housing. I think they are prone to leaking and because they leak in the “V” of the engine it’s hard to see. I could always smell coolant and it leaked much worse in the cold weather. It just came back from being repaired a week ago hopefully they got it this time. I think it’s a substandard design to be honest, not sure if the V6 is the same. |
On 2 occasions in the last few weeks, after particularly cold days, I got the message to add coolant right when I started the car. The 2nd time my temp gauge immediately went all the way up and flashed red - even though the car was ice cold and had just been started. I turned it off, turned it back on, and had no warning message or elevated temps for the rest of the morning. I went to the dealership after breakfast and they topped it off, noting very little had to be added. The tech did say he suspected a sticky sensor due to the cold and that they saw no leaks anywhere. I have had no issues or warnings since.
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Originally Posted by leftlane
(Post 15622633)
On 2 occasions in the last few weeks, after particularly cold days, I got the message to add coolant right when I started the car. The 2nd time my temp gauge immediately went all the way up and flashed red - even though the car was ice cold and had just been started..
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A FWIW - coolant is not a consumable unless something is WRONG. If your car is using coolant, it's either leaking it somewhere or leaking it into the engine (cylinder, oil passages, etc.) - in any case - the cause should be found. Just topping it off is a good way to make certain at some future time, in the most inconvenient location at the most inconvenient time - there will be a massive coolant failure stranding you. A dealer employee who tells you it's normal and sends you on your way is both lazy and stupid. There are known leak points on the 958 Cayenne. On the V8 engines there is a fitting at the rear of the engine that's known for leaking, and at the front of the engine the two pipes going into the thermostat housing are known leak points. In both cases it's because Porsche used GLUE to hold the pipes in. The glue eventually fails. Failure starts out as leaking, and eventually evolves into a total failure and massive coolant loss. Porsche has redesigned the parts involved so the plumbing uses mechanical fasteners to hold things together - not glue.
There are threads on both subjects - and some DIY writeups in the DIY subforum. I'd suggest looking for them and becoming informed on the subject. It seems Porsche was much better at air-cooling engines rather than liquid cooling them. |
Originally Posted by deilenberger
(Post 15622706)
A FWIW - coolant is not a consumable unless something is WRONG. If your car is using coolant, it's either leaking it somewhere or leaking it into the engine (cylinder, oil passages, etc.) - in any case - the cause should be found. Just topping it off is a good way to make certain at some future time, in the most inconvenient location at the most inconvenient time - there will be a massive coolant failure stranding you. A dealer employee who tells you it's normal and sends you on your way is both lazy and stupid. There are known leak points on the 958 Cayenne. On the V8 engines there is a fitting at the rear of the engine that's known for leaking, and at the front of the engine the two pipes going into the thermostat housing are known leak points. In both cases it's because Porsche used GLUE to hold the pipes in. The glue eventually fails. Failure starts out as leaking, and eventually evolves into a total failure and massive coolant loss. Porsche has redesigned the parts involved so the plumbing uses mechanical fasteners to hold things together - not glue.
There are threads on both subjects - and some DIY writeups in the DIY subforum. I'd suggest looking for them and becoming informed on the subject. It seems Porsche was much better at air-cooling engines rather than liquid cooling them. |
The point is that the cooling system is a closed environment and if more coolant needs to be added then, although the dealer may be blowing it off as normal, the missing coolant is escaping somehow. If you're not smelling it then it's either dripping straight down to the pans and evaporating, leaking externally but not onto anything hot enough to cause the telltale smell or it's leaking internally. I'd suggest dropping the pans to look at them for signs of coolant as that will help with the search. The other thing to get is an endoscope that hooks up to a smartphone to allow searching at the rear of the engine for signs of a drip that doesn't make it all the way down. Also look at the water pump as mine had a drip at some point before I bought the vehicle as it had the remnants of evaporated coolant. The next spot to search is the area of the overflow tank as those connections have been know to leak, especially in colder weather. If you still can't find it then it might be worthwhile to have an oil analysis done at the next oil change for any evidence of coolant in the oil.
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Don and Tom, I agree with all of your points and thanks for that. No amount of coolant should disappear. But when two separate dealers say they see small losses all the time and do a pressure test to confirm no loss of pressure, there’s not much you can do other than document for future reference just in case. |
I had a similar experience. Coolant warning came on, topped it off, and brought it to the dealer. They pressure tested it and it held pressure. I told them it's impossible for the coolant level to drop if there's no leak, so they held it over night to let it get good and cold and did another pressure test in the morning. Still no issues. As frustrating as it was, it was also hard to argue with the result.
The only other thing I could think of would be if parts of the system are isolated when the engine is off? I.e., they would not get pressurized during their test and be missed? Or something only leaks when it's hot? |
Originally Posted by PDX958
(Post 15623879)
I had a similar experience. Coolant warning came on, topped it off, and brought it to the dealer. They pressure tested it and it held pressure. I told them it's impossible for the coolant level to drop if there's no leak, so they held it over night to let it get good and cold and did another pressure test in the morning. Still no issues. As frustrating as it was, it was also hard to argue with the result.
The only other thing I could think of would be if parts of the system are isolated when the engine is off? I.e., they would not get pressurized during their test and be missed? Or something only leaks when it's hot? FWIW - I spent close to a year chasing one on my '06 CS - finally found trails of coolant deposits running down the side of the torque-converter housing (aka bell-housing) - I documented it with photos, printed out the photos and handed them to the service manager and said "Fix this.." - took them 3 days - they ended up replacing the coolant bridge on the back of the engine. Leak was gone. |
Originally Posted by deilenberger
(Post 15624036)
Entirely possible for there to be hot only or cold only leaks.. and those probably are difficult to replicate, but there should be clues, especially with the encrustations that Porsche coolant leaves behind when there is any leak.. it takes a good eye and some experience to find the leak, but there is a leak..
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I have the same on my 15 CS.. i can smell it, but cant find any trails... dealer smelled it as well on drop off, but cant find it - level was a bit low and topped up. I need to take off all the covers and poke around and do a end of warranty visit.
Wish this thing was air-cooled :P phil. |
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