2014 CD First DIY Oil Change Experience
#1
2014 CD First DIY Oil Change Experience
I purchased a 2014 CD in August from an independent used car dealer in the Chicago area. I believe the original owner had it serviced regularly at a Chicagoland Porsche dealer. It had 24,989 miles at the time of purchase and the dealer had apparently done an oil change using Mobil 1 0W-40 (not correct, but close). I finally found the time and courage to change the oil today at 27,348 miles (2,359). Here's a few observations:
I have a Bendpak MD-6XP scissors lift and the wingspan is such that the pads needed to be placed just short of being half off of the ends of the lift arms in order to reach the lift pad/sockets located in the rockers. This required getting the lift exactly centered left to right and in the optimal position front to rear. Not ideal, but it worked out.
I removed the plastic pans and was pleased to see that the fasteners securing them were galvanized and all unscrewed without a problem. I have other cars where these fasteners had rusted (I'm in Wisconsin) and were problematic. I coated these fasteners with Fluid Film before replacing the pans.
I wrapped the aluminum cross piece with aluminum foil and removed the drain plug. This is where things started going bad. The oil hitting the bottom of the drain pan immediately created twin geysers of oil shooting up and out the pan. This is my first diesel oil change, and I have never seen oil so black. Is this normal with only ~2,400 miles of service? Once that all settled down I let it drain for about 30 minutes while I removed the wheels and cleaned the backside of them. I replaced the drain pan with a cottage cheese container to catch the occasional drip so I could empty the drain pan. I then lowered the lift and opened up the filter canister. At this point a significant amount of oil started draining out the oil pan, and not into the cottage cheese container. Another mess to clean up. The new Mahle OX420DECO ($9 Rock Auto) filter installed without any problem.
I then installed a Fumoto F106SX ($36 Fumoto Online) drain valve. Hopefully this valve along with the snap-on hose kit ($6 Fumoto Online) will make future oil changes way less messy.
I added 7.3 liters of Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 ($8/liter Summit Racing). The oil level indicator is right in the middle. I'd like to add a dipstick but I'm not sure what the correct part number is. Based on what I've read it seems that some of them need to be modified (cut the loop) to clear the engine cover. Does anyone have a part number for one that will drop in without modification?
I rotated the tires and set the correct pressures. After a couple of start/stop cycles and a bit of driving the TPMS seems to have recognized the new wheel locations.
I used a Foxwell NT520 Pro Porsche Diagnostic Scanner Tool ($160 eBay quickshipautoparts) to reset the oil service indicator. Once I located the correct dashboard display it was reading 5,000 miles, so I assume the reset was successful.
I was able to add 1 gallon of Kleen DEF ($3 Menards). There was probably room for a little more, but I didn't want to overfill it. I don't know what the level was when I purchased the CD.
I wanted to add 8 ounces of Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement Winterizer/Antigel ($9/80 ounces Farm & Fleet) but was perplexed by the diesel filler defeat mechanism. I located a 1" OD piece of plastic tubing which when inserted opened the flap. I was then able to pour the supplement into the full tank (25 gallons).
This all took me about 6 hours under ideal conditions (heat & light), but I was taking it slow as I didn't want to screw anything up. Definitely a learning experience, and I'm sure it will go much faster next time.
I was also able to inspect the brakes and measure the rotor diameters for future reference. Those front brakes are huge!
I have a Bendpak MD-6XP scissors lift and the wingspan is such that the pads needed to be placed just short of being half off of the ends of the lift arms in order to reach the lift pad/sockets located in the rockers. This required getting the lift exactly centered left to right and in the optimal position front to rear. Not ideal, but it worked out.
I removed the plastic pans and was pleased to see that the fasteners securing them were galvanized and all unscrewed without a problem. I have other cars where these fasteners had rusted (I'm in Wisconsin) and were problematic. I coated these fasteners with Fluid Film before replacing the pans.
I wrapped the aluminum cross piece with aluminum foil and removed the drain plug. This is where things started going bad. The oil hitting the bottom of the drain pan immediately created twin geysers of oil shooting up and out the pan. This is my first diesel oil change, and I have never seen oil so black. Is this normal with only ~2,400 miles of service? Once that all settled down I let it drain for about 30 minutes while I removed the wheels and cleaned the backside of them. I replaced the drain pan with a cottage cheese container to catch the occasional drip so I could empty the drain pan. I then lowered the lift and opened up the filter canister. At this point a significant amount of oil started draining out the oil pan, and not into the cottage cheese container. Another mess to clean up. The new Mahle OX420DECO ($9 Rock Auto) filter installed without any problem.
I then installed a Fumoto F106SX ($36 Fumoto Online) drain valve. Hopefully this valve along with the snap-on hose kit ($6 Fumoto Online) will make future oil changes way less messy.
I added 7.3 liters of Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 ($8/liter Summit Racing). The oil level indicator is right in the middle. I'd like to add a dipstick but I'm not sure what the correct part number is. Based on what I've read it seems that some of them need to be modified (cut the loop) to clear the engine cover. Does anyone have a part number for one that will drop in without modification?
I rotated the tires and set the correct pressures. After a couple of start/stop cycles and a bit of driving the TPMS seems to have recognized the new wheel locations.
I used a Foxwell NT520 Pro Porsche Diagnostic Scanner Tool ($160 eBay quickshipautoparts) to reset the oil service indicator. Once I located the correct dashboard display it was reading 5,000 miles, so I assume the reset was successful.
I was able to add 1 gallon of Kleen DEF ($3 Menards). There was probably room for a little more, but I didn't want to overfill it. I don't know what the level was when I purchased the CD.
I wanted to add 8 ounces of Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement Winterizer/Antigel ($9/80 ounces Farm & Fleet) but was perplexed by the diesel filler defeat mechanism. I located a 1" OD piece of plastic tubing which when inserted opened the flap. I was then able to pour the supplement into the full tank (25 gallons).
This all took me about 6 hours under ideal conditions (heat & light), but I was taking it slow as I didn't want to screw anything up. Definitely a learning experience, and I'm sure it will go much faster next time.
I was also able to inspect the brakes and measure the rotor diameters for future reference. Those front brakes are huge!
#2
I recently changed my oil on a '15 CD for the first time and drained the oil from below. I have a Bendpak scissor lift also and it was a little sketchy with the lift pads all the way to the end of the lift arms.
Next time though, I will suck out the oil from above through the dipstick tube with an oil extractor. It will probably take less than 30 minutes that way and be much cleaner.
Next time though, I will suck out the oil from above through the dipstick tube with an oil extractor. It will probably take less than 30 minutes that way and be much cleaner.
#4
The black oil is normal for the diesel and is a large part of why they require more frequent oil changes than the gas motor Cayennes. It is soot from the combustion process suspended in the oil. The high EGR usage for emissions does not help either.
https://speedsociety.com/why-does-di...il-turn-black/
https://speedsociety.com/why-does-di...il-turn-black/
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Intercity Lines (06-28-2019)
#6
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Livonia, Michigan
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I've added a dipstick to my 2015. The key is to make sure you get the correct on for your engine. You can find the engine designation on the vin sticker in the rear hatch; mine is a CNRB, which was also shared with VW and Audi. The first dipstick I got was for an earlier engine and was too long. The reading on the stick now corresponds to the level monitor. The dipstick does keep the forward left (driver side) snap of the engine cover from engaging, but that doesn't bother me. You can cut off half of the dipstick ring to solve that.
I've found that I can pour the fuel supplement into the filler opening without any hoses or trying to prop the flap open. I buy the same Power Service fuel supplement and transfer to a 20oz water bottle which I keep in the car. I can just pour it into the fuel filler directly from the smaller bottle before I fill the tank.
I've found that I can pour the fuel supplement into the filler opening without any hoses or trying to prop the flap open. I buy the same Power Service fuel supplement and transfer to a 20oz water bottle which I keep in the car. I can just pour it into the fuel filler directly from the smaller bottle before I fill the tank.
#7
The black oil is normal for the diesel and is a large part of why they require more frequent oil changes than the gas motor Cayennes. It is soot from the combustion process suspended in the oil. The high EGR usage for emissions does not help either.
https://speedsociety.com/why-does-di...il-turn-black/
https://speedsociety.com/why-does-di...il-turn-black/
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#8
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by hotrod2448
And that poor fuel quality leads to...which can work as an abrasive if allowed to build up in high concentrations.
#10
#14
Burning Brakes
One of the members here (HawkPilot) has been doing Blackstone labs analysis on his oil, so it'll be interesting what they say the OCI should be. With the emissions garbage in modern diesels, I read on BITOG (Bob is the oil guy) forums that the oil is basically done at 7,500 anyway. No real evidence to support it was presented though.
The Fumoto *WILL* make it better - I'm so happy I bought one. Do loosen the cap on the oil filter before you drain the oil though, makes it easier.
As for the fill, I've always added 8 quarts. The manual calls for 7.7 liters, which is 8.14 US quarts. http://www.porscheownersmanuals.com/...els-Engine-oil
For the DEF, You can buy one of the half-gallon VW/Audi AdBlue bottles for $15-20. It screws on to the filler and makes sure it can't be over-filled. The next time you are close to being full, just refill that (now empty) bottle back up from your 2.5 gallon jug a few times, and you won't make the mess that all of us have made..
The Fumoto *WILL* make it better - I'm so happy I bought one. Do loosen the cap on the oil filter before you drain the oil though, makes it easier.
As for the fill, I've always added 8 quarts. The manual calls for 7.7 liters, which is 8.14 US quarts. http://www.porscheownersmanuals.com/...els-Engine-oil
For the DEF, You can buy one of the half-gallon VW/Audi AdBlue bottles for $15-20. It screws on to the filler and makes sure it can't be over-filled. The next time you are close to being full, just refill that (now empty) bottle back up from your 2.5 gallon jug a few times, and you won't make the mess that all of us have made..
#15
. . . I wrapped the aluminum cross piece with aluminum foil and removed the drain plug. This is where things started going bad. The oil hitting the bottom of the drain pan immediately created twin geysers of oil shooting up and out the pan. This is my first diesel oil change, and I have never seen oil so black. Is this normal with only ~2,400 miles of service? Once that all settled down I let it drain for about 30 minutes while I removed the wheels and cleaned the backside of them. I replaced the drain pan with a cottage cheese container to catch the occasional drip so I could empty the drain pan. I then lowered the lift and opened up the filter canister. At this point a significant amount of oil started draining out the oil pan, and not into the cottage cheese container. Another mess to clean up. The new Mahle OX420DECO ($9 Rock Auto) filter installed without any problem.
I then installed a Fumoto F106SX ($36 Fumoto Online) drain valve. Hopefully this valve along with the snap-on hose kit ($6 Fumoto Online) will make future oil changes way less messy.
I added 7.3 liters of Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 ($8/liter Summit Racing). The oil level indicator is right in the middle. I'd like to add a dipstick but I'm not sure what the correct part number is. Based on what I've read it seems that some of them need to be modified (cut the loop) to clear the engine cover. Does anyone have a part number for one that will drop in without modification?
. . .
I used a Foxwell NT520 Pro Porsche Diagnostic Scanner Tool ($160 eBay quickshipautoparts) to reset the oil service indicator. Once I located the correct dashboard display it was reading 5,000 miles, so I assume the reset was successful.
. . .
I wanted to add 8 ounces of Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement Winterizer/Antigel ($9/80 ounces Farm & Fleet) but was perplexed by the diesel filler defeat mechanism. I located a 1" OD piece of plastic tubing which when inserted opened the flap. I was then able to pour the supplement into the full tank (25 gallons).
. . .
I then installed a Fumoto F106SX ($36 Fumoto Online) drain valve. Hopefully this valve along with the snap-on hose kit ($6 Fumoto Online) will make future oil changes way less messy.
I added 7.3 liters of Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 ($8/liter Summit Racing). The oil level indicator is right in the middle. I'd like to add a dipstick but I'm not sure what the correct part number is. Based on what I've read it seems that some of them need to be modified (cut the loop) to clear the engine cover. Does anyone have a part number for one that will drop in without modification?
. . .
I used a Foxwell NT520 Pro Porsche Diagnostic Scanner Tool ($160 eBay quickshipautoparts) to reset the oil service indicator. Once I located the correct dashboard display it was reading 5,000 miles, so I assume the reset was successful.
. . .
I wanted to add 8 ounces of Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement Winterizer/Antigel ($9/80 ounces Farm & Fleet) but was perplexed by the diesel filler defeat mechanism. I located a 1" OD piece of plastic tubing which when inserted opened the flap. I was then able to pour the supplement into the full tank (25 gallons).
. . .
I also installed a real dipstick. I can't remember the part number, but my engine is a different generation from yours. So I am guessing the dipsticks are different. I did cut the top half of the circle handle off to make it fit under the engine cover. With the benefit of hindsight, I would have cut even more off or rounded off the edges because it is slightly damaging the cloth under the cover. Interestingly, I find that the level shown on the dash with the electronic dipstick image is often different from the real oil level.
You may want to consider getting a Porsche Diesel funnel adapter. I also add a fuel additive (Stanadyne) regularly, and this adapter is very helpful.
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKUDFF.html
Does anyone know if the Foxwell NT520 Pro Porsche Diagnostic Scanner Tool works to reset oil change/maintenance warnings for the 2016 model year Cayenne Diesels? My understanding is that affordable (to regular consumers) scan tools for 2016 model year diesels were not really available.
b-man