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I'd wonder if a local repair shop will even want to look at it - they probably have no way of obtaining a diagram - and even if they do - no way of simulating the fiber-optic link that provides the signal to the amp. Chances are they'll suggest a new one. When you get it back (or get a used/new one) - I'd suggest using some talcum powder around the inside seal on the glass to make sure the leak is gone.. talc it up, squirt vigorously outside - and change in appearance = leak.
So I had similar issue when my Bose system. Only the was working.
I took out the amplifier and found signs of water entry. Unfortunately I'm out of warranty so can't take it to dealer. I'll try to reach out to one of those repair service to see if they can bring it back to life. Else will be replacing it with a used unit.
I can't tell where the water came from. Next weekend I'll do hose test by the quatqua window to see if that is the source.
Question, what is the best way to clean the harness connector? There appears to be some oxidation in the connector pins.
That's serious corrosion issues. Maybe you have a water leak int he side window gasket? Should be possible to spot if you remove the interior panels and by using a hose on the outside.
The harness connector will probably unreliable despite thorough cleaning. I would advise to use a good quality electronics contact cleaner, (not 5-56 or other oils) and use a brush to get into the contacts.
The amp can be possible to repair, but no repairman will provide any warranty on the job. Corrosion issues are often impossible to fix in such type of micro electronics.
A test bench setup must consist of a complete system with PCM unit, (or other specialized test equipment) as well as the optical and electrical bus connections.
Cheers,
Tore
Some oxidation? I think the connector is toast. I suspect many of the connectors are actually no longer there and there is just corrosion debris instead. My WAG - you need a new amp and a new connector. I imagine somewhere Porsche may sell a repair kit for the connector (a kit with the connector and stubs of the wiring coming off it that you then splice to the existing cabling that fed the old connector), but I doubt if that amplifier can be saved. I would imagine - just looking at it - that there are some fried components in it due to leakage between the corroded connectors.
It would be a big favor to the rest of us if you can report on how you resolve the problem, and particularly if you can track down how the water got to the amp and connector.
Sorry this is the reason that you had to come to the forum, but welcome anyway..
I'm resurrecting an old thread. I have a 2014 Cayenne S with the same issues described by others in this thread. The Bose system comes on fine in ignition position 1 but when you start the car I get a pop/crackle sound out of the speakers and then the full range speakers cut out but the subwoofer continues to play. I have removed the main harness from the amp and see minor corrosion. I tried cleaning both sides of the connectors with alcohol and a toothbrush but it didn't help matters.
I am trying to decide if I should send the amp to Becker Sound for them to repair the amp for $450 to $650 or try my luck on a used amp (with 90 day warranty) from ebay. My question is are these amps programmed with a code that is specific to the vehicle or can you plug in any matching amp to the system? Thanks in advance.
I'm resurrecting an old thread. I have a 2014 Cayenne S with the same issues described by others in this thread. The Bose system comes on fine in ignition position 1 but when you start the car I get a pop/crackle sound out of the speakers and then the full range speakers cut out but the subwoofer continues to play. I have removed the main harness from the amp and see minor corrosion. I tried cleaning both sides of the connectors with alcohol and a toothbrush but it didn't help matters.
I am trying to decide if I should send the amp to Becker Sound for them to repair the amp for $450 to $650 or try my luck on a used amp (with 90 day warranty) from ebay. My question is are these amps programmed with a code that is specific to the vehicle or can you plug in any matching amp to the system? Thanks in advance.
If you put the key in position 1 and wiggle the harness, do you get the same snap crackle pop? It would suck to repair the amp and have it just be a bad connection in that harness!
I'm resurrecting an old thread. I have a 2014 Cayenne S with the same issues described by others in this thread. The Bose system comes on fine in ignition position 1 but when you start the car I get a pop/crackle sound out of the speakers and then the full range speakers cut out but the subwoofer continues to play. I have removed the main harness from the amp and see minor corrosion. I tried cleaning both sides of the connectors with alcohol and a toothbrush but it didn't help matters.
I am trying to decide if I should send the amp to Becker Sound for them to repair the amp for $450 to $650 or try my luck on a used amp (with 90 day warranty) from ebay. My question is are these amps programmed with a code that is specific to the vehicle or can you plug in any matching amp to the system? Thanks in advance.
I also have 2014 Cayenne S. Exactly the same symptoms.
Why the Amp would be fully working with the ignition off, and not working with the ignition on.
somebody mentioned that it could be a fault of another peripheral equipment on the same fiber loop.
I also have 2014 Cayenne S. Exactly the same symptoms.
Why the Amp would be fully working with the ignition off, and not working with the ignition on.
somebody mentioned that it could be a fault of another peripheral equipment on the same fiber loop.
If the amp has that much corrosion, doesn't it make more sense to find another new amp that is better than the Bose.....if it will work with the Bose system?
There's a chance it's your ignition switch where the contacts in the run position are more worn than those in the accessory position. I would say that if the amp works fine indefinitely without the car running, then it's not the amp.
There's a chance it's your ignition switch where the contacts in the run position are more worn than those in the accessory position. I would say that if the amp works fine indefinitely without the car running, then it's not the amp.
There isn't an "accessory" position though. Off, on, and start, basically.
2014 Cayenne S. Water intrusion from passenger side rear sunroof drain. Drips directly down on amplifier connection. Solution. The sunroof drain exits just under vehicle behind rear tire. It was stopped up, just like the front cowl drains. Popped it out. Cut off the cross area that was clogged. At least a gallon of water came out. Reinstalled without the cross on the rubber plug. Removed amp. Cleaned connectors with contact cleaner and WD 40. Let it sit for a couple of days. Reinstalled amp. put plastic shield over the connector. Amp started working again. Sigh of relief. Trimmed rubber drain plug driver side sunroof drain exit behind rear tire also. No more water worries. John
02-11-2018, 09:57 PM
