Brake Job
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Brake Job
Just to relay experience. I replaced pads, sensors and rotors over a 2 week period driving the week in between. Fronts went without a hitch. Left rear the sensor to car connection plug was frozen. Cut one off upstream from donor Cayenne and spliced it in. At right rear we couldn't get upper caliper bolt off. Impact wrench. 3' breaker bar with floor jack. Nada. Sprayed on more Kroil and tried the next weekend. Couldn't get to it with impact twister/5# hammer. It finally came out with just the man powered breaker bar. Well, there was that 5# hammer invoked too. Anyway, all is well now. Can't believe Kroil was the difference. It may have been a different angle with the breaker bar and that hammer. But my advice would be to use a penetrating oil a week in advance. I had MAPP torch in standby too but thankfully didn't need. Oh, and right rear has the parking brake. Had a hard time getting the old rotor off. Used the hammer on that too.
#3
Rennlist Member
Just to relay experience. I replaced pads, sensors and rotors over a 2 week period driving the week in between. Fronts went without a hitch. Left rear the sensor to car connection plug was frozen. Cut one off upstream from donor Cayenne and spliced it in. At right rear we couldn't get upper caliper bolt off. Impact wrench. 3' breaker bar with floor jack. Nada. Sprayed on more Kroil and tried the next weekend. Couldn't get to it with impact twister/5# hammer. It finally came out with just the man powered breaker bar. Well, there was that 5# hammer invoked too. Anyway, all is well now. Can't believe Kroil was the difference. It may have been a different angle with the breaker bar and that hammer. But my advice would be to use a penetrating oil a week in advance. I had MAPP torch in standby too but thankfully didn't need. Oh, and right rear has the parking brake. Had a hard time getting the old rotor off. Used the hammer on that too.
#4
Amen on the anti-seize... makes the next time (if there is one) SO much easier. Rotor screws/bolts and caliper bolts. I even use it on brake pad pins (when they exist, not every caliper has them) and the edges of brake pads so the pads have less tendency to stick in the caliper as they wear... not much required there, you don't want it migrating onto the pad surface. The greasiness of anti-seize goes away over time, leaving an almost dry paste-like residue that keeps surfaces from sticking due to rust or other corrosion.