When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks nodoors - for some reason I didn't see your reply when you first posted...good to know about the settings not being kept.
So sound quality is obviously an individual thing; I'm pretty critical but I suppose I haven't heard really high end car audio. But what is confusing is many people say they like the sound from the Android into Bose conversions, but I can't see how that can be if you loose the sub, and have so much forward bias in the speakers. If Bose is not so great to start with, you'd think the MOST converter would kill the whole setup. Did you replace your amp and speakers?
Changing the amp for a conventional one would be fine, but since the speakers are matched for the Bose amp as you say they would have to be changed as well - at that point it all starts getting quite involved and expensive. There seems to be a new batch of AUX in/BT CDC replacement boxes on eBay these days for the MOST system, makes it tempting to give up on a new head unit and just settle for having a lot of music with the full Bose speaker setup.
I didn't lose my sub. I think the person who said they did just assumes that no discrete control means no sub. The bose amp takes the two channel signal from the MOST adapter and sends the bass to the sub at the right cut off. Mine is still active, but I have no individual control of it. Instead, the graphic EQ is available in the headunit, so if I want more sub, I turn raise the bass levels. I love bass, (studio musician here with several albums) and I think it sounds pretty good. Now, temper that comment with the fact that the original Bose system always sounded just pretty good and it will never sound as good as high end systems. I love listening to music in my wife's Range Rover because it sounds excellent.
I am curious to see how your CDR23 conversion goes, but I think that is way overkill. I am hoping that someone figures out how to do a proper MOST adapter soon.
The single best upgrade you can do to your Cayenne audio is replace the original factory sub anyway. Concur the EQ control for the sub volume level in the Seicane head unit is adequate to the job.
The single best upgrade you can do to your Cayenne audio is replace the original factory sub anyway. Concur the EQ control for the sub volume level in the Seicane head unit is adequate to the job.
What kind of sub did you replace yours with? And where in the car is it located?
Thanks for the feedback - I have pretty good home equipment, and do some recording with it as well. I really don't want to replace the speakers, but a new 6 channel amp that can handle 2 ohms like the XD600/6 would be a possibility. There is a thread here in the 997 forum that is pretty positive on the results. I also like bass so upgrading the sub might be the way to go for me. Actually one of the reasons I want a new HU is to use FLAC files, not so much for 24-bit/192K but for clean low frequencies compared to 320kbps.
So with the 2 channel MOST boxes down to around $100 these days I should probably just get the Android HU and the converter and try it, and if I don't like that then replace the amp, and if that doesn't do it suck it up and replace the speakers. And a new sub could come in at any point.
Now to choose a HU, seems like there are a lot of new ones coming out these days.
I didn't lose my sub. I think the person who said they did just assumes that no discrete control means no sub. The bose amp takes the two channel signal from the MOST adapter and sends the bass to the sub at the right cut off. Mine is still active, but I have no individual control of it. Instead, the graphic EQ is available in the headunit, so if I want more sub, I turn raise the bass levels. I love bass, (studio musician here with several albums) and I think it sounds pretty good. Now, temper that comment with the fact that the original Bose system always sounded just pretty good and it will never sound as good as high end systems. I love listening to music in my wife's Range Rover because it sounds excellent.
I am curious to see how your CDR23 conversion goes, but I think that is way overkill. I am hoping that someone figures out how to do a proper MOST adapter soon.
I am replacing CDR23 in my Cayenne. Where should I connect the three wires from MOST adapter to? Can I splice open wires from the adapter that is powering the Cabus adapter and the main unit? If so which wires would they be? Or any other suggestion on where to get power from for the MOST adapter?
Thanks to this forum, another successful install. Thank you to everyone that contributed. I added a backup camera and OBDII reader. Just need to figure out how to use the thing now, I'm not versed in Android at all so I have yet to figure out how to stream music from my phone via Bluetooth or even figure out how to get it to play via USB. It sounds good, but I have a really low level buzz when the audio is on. Doesn't sound like a ground issue as it doesn't change with the RPM of the car, and it's present when the car is even off. However, it's not noticeable as soon as you turn the volume up (using the radio only so far). Overall very pleased with the outcome for the price point.
Congrats on the install, looks great. I was thinking about the buzz when the car is off, and that sounds like some kind of coupling issue in their design, and then I saw the instructions that danishw posted - they say with that MOST adaptor to connect the front left and the rear right to the two channels - weird. On one hand it is an interesting way to get the fade information, but since the signal levels would be different on the left and right sides when the HU has some fade set, the MOST adaptor would have to change the amplitude of one channel compared to the other side to balance them properly when faded. Since no amp is perfect the distortion would be greater on the higher output channel and so it would be inherently imbalanced. Maybe this trick causes some background noise from the MOST circuitry that does it.
So do other MOST adaptors say to connect front L and rear R outputs? Those that do, do they fade properly? I believe the Russian unit that was made for a while compared the voltage level on the front and rear output lines, and then faded a single L/R input pair into the optic circuit based on a predicted desired fade. That way would almost make more sense, except when voltages were very low the fade might bounce around. But the voltages would be low so you might not hear it.
Anyways the point was if you connect it like the instructions say, to LF and RR there may be more buzz than if you use LF and RF (or RF and LF).
The fader will not work with this MOST adaptor as it is only 2 channel based. The Russian adapter you mentioned must be a 4 channel one. Can you post a link to it?
The 'buzzing' I've noticed is directly correlated with the screen output, whenever anything is done on the touchscreen and changes on the display happen, the sound of the 'buzz" changes. It's really low level, and I can't even hear it really unless there isn't anything playing. It's a little annoying for me but I'm picky, but it's definitely not loud enough to really keep us from enjoying the unit overall. Still a great upgrade, especially for the price.
The fader will not work with this MOST adaptor as it is only 2 channel based. The Russian adapter you mentioned must be a 4 channel one. Can you post a link to it?
I searched again and just couldn't find the page with the adaptor info any more. It was no longer available anyway, but it was interesting that they had tapped into the front/rear balance on the MOST side of the encoder.
Originally Posted by kyoso23
The 'buzzing' I've noticed is directly correlated with the screen output, whenever anything is done on the touchscreen and changes on the display happen, the sound of the 'buzz" changes. It's really low level, and I can't even hear it really unless there isn't anything playing. It's a little annoying for me but I'm picky, but it's definitely not loud enough to really keep us from enjoying the unit overall. Still a great upgrade, especially for the price.
kyoso, I was wondering which specific HU you bought - I was trying to match up the photo of yours to units on Aliexpress, and I knew there were several but when I started to make a list; it's amazing how many there actually are! I got this far…
Gotta love "Wondefoo"! While they are all the same components, I think they are assembled in different small shops in China, so there could be variations in quality. Should start a user poll or something to see which are the most trouble free.
Hard to say...lol. I bought mine from AliExpress but as soon as it shipped, the order was deleted from my history on there so I don't know. It showed up within two weeks though. Totally weird! I'm pretty sure it is the Dicola version. I bought an OBDII reader from the same vendor on there (which says "Dicola Store"), and the OBDII reader didn't show up. They said it was shipped in the same box, but it wasn't. They said they'd replace it right away, so we'll see. Nonetheless, albeit a little shady feeling on the transactions, they communicate quickly through the AliExpress console and seem to be on the up and up.
Sounds like they might actually be still in business. Not sure about world wide shipping, but who knows, I ordered an AOS membrane from Russia once and it made it to Canada no problem.
01-07-2018, 05:16 AM
.
