1BadAction

I'll preface this by saying when I bought, I did as much research as I could. It was one owner, bought and serviced by the same dealership, 6 years old with 89 thousand miles on it. Looked over the service records, made sure the dealer I was buying it from had a good reputation and could be trusted, etc. I walked away from several Cayennes locally because I was not confident in their history. My mentor and mechanic (before I started doing my own wrenching) said to me when I was a teenager "There's nothing more expensive than a cheap German car" and that has always kind of stuck with me when buying used vehicles, even though up until now I've mostly been a GM guy.

I drove my 2013 Camaro from Dallas, TX to Scottsdale, did the deal, stayed the night then turned around the next morning and hauled *** back to Dallas. 1,110 miles across the desert and west Texas running 85 and 90 the whole way. Had zero issues. I've put another thousand or so miles on it since I got back and it's been fine. Crossing my fingers that it treats me well, but right now yes, I would do it again.

I drive her daily but I also keep up on her detailing and inspect things under hood weekly. Brake fluid, oil level, coolant, belts, etc. Most people think I went and bought a new vehicle when they look at it. I'm a big believer that if you treat a vehicle right it will do the same for you. Automotive Karma, if you will.

Totally agree here, but has something changed on the 958 4.8? On my 957 there's 8 covers held on with a single triple square bolt, a 16mm(I think) for the upper engine mount, some plugs for coils and the spark plugs themselves. I can do plugs for the whole engine in the time it takes to remove and replace the #8 plug in the last 4 LSx powered vehicles I've owned, and end up with less cut up knuckles. lol

Thats what I've told myself buying the one I did but aside from a few nit-picky gripes, I didn't see where much of anything was done other than fluids filters and belts

deilenberger

When you're getting to my age - gratification NOW is somewhat of a priority..

deilenberger

More stuff to take off and more stuff in the way. It was a piece'a'cake to take the engine compartment trim off on my 955 - not so much on the 958. Added about 10 minutes to the job. I'm still unclear on how they expect the center part over the radiator to come out since it's wider then the cutout it fits under. All I could do was really bend it up in the center and hope it didn't break. Happily it didn't.

There are two beauty covers over the coils/plugs. You don't have to move the airpumps out of the way like I did on the 955, but these are held on with 8 Torx screws that go into the nuts retaining the coils. Some of the screws are easy to access - others not so much. You need a very low profile ratchet with a Torx bit in it, and then you have to guard against the screws and or Torx bit dropping and going to never-never-to-be-seen-again-land. On the port side (drivers side) these aren't awful. On the starboard side - you have very poor access to the rear-most screw. There is plumbing in the way, and it's not at all obvious how to move it out of the way. Fumbling is the technique I used.. and scraped/bleeding knuckles.

Someplace on AllData - I read up on dong this, and the claim was made that you could remove that trim cover, and the coils/plugs without moving the engine torque strut out of the way. BS. After trying for 45 minutes, I took the 2 minutes to swing the strut out of the way and the cover came off and that coil then was removable.

Once the covers are all out of the way, both rearmost plugs are "difficult" to get out. Again - AllData never mentions using a swivel joint or wobble-joint on the plug socket - but without it, you're not getting the plugs out of the engine. The coils can be removed - involving a lot of funky twisting of them (and they're in a recess in the cover) and angling to clear the stuff blocking access. Removal of the coils requires removing the bolt/stud holding them in place.

This screw is called "Hexalobular Screw w/Int Thread," PN 94810514600. It's an external - Torx (or "E-Screw.) Officially it needs an E-12 socket to remove it. Problem is - most sets of "E-sockets" are deep well sockets, and combined with a ratchet, there isn't room to fit them over the screw head. So - fumbling around again solved the issue when I found a 10mm 6-point socket fit them close enough (or a 10mm box end thin-wall wrench.)

Count on dropping one of these. The two rear ones you're on tippy toes trying to unscrew them by hand once loosened, and your fingers are getting chewed up by various wiring/plumbing/stuff that blocks the area, and you can't see what you're doing since your bloody hands are in the way.

Assembly was the reverse of disassembly. Perhaps 30 years ago I might have cut 1/2 hour off the job, but that's doubtful since I didn't have anywhere near as good a selection of tools then.

That's the story on why it took that long.. It makes one remember fondly changing the plugs on a Volvo B18 engine. 10 minutes tops. And you could adjust the valves at the same time in another 15 minutes. Not even breaking a sweat.

1BadAction

E-sockets? Yea same deal on the newer American cars. I paid too much for a set of short snap on e-sockets ages ago and I've used them on way more things than I had expected.

Gotta watch alldata sometimes, half the data for my 91 burb says it applies to the 91 trucks, problem with that is the 91 trucks are a platform that's 14 years newer and completely different.

CheckbookMechanic

I bought a used 2006 Cayenne TT and it was easily the best car purchase I've made even though I got rid of it when my daily drive went from 16 miles round trip to 60. When my current DD, the LEAF, gets a bit older I'm sure I'll start looking for a used CTT again.. this time probably an '11 or so and by that time it'll be in the range I'm comfortable paying for a car I'll DD.

endless_corners

All of your issues are REALLY normal and you spent way too much money.

1BadAction

With any vehicle it's cheap, easy, or awesome. You only get two. Of course cheap is relative, an alternator for a 4.8 in a Porsche isn't going to be the same price as one in a Honduh Accord. If you're not willing to service these things as a factory authorized service facility does (which is NOT easy) then you gotta be willing to fork out the cash to someone who does (easy, but not cheap) Just the way it is.

I know, but relevant.

joeypapz

curious what did that warranty cost?

8202632

I bought it with the car and it was still under factory warranty. I believe at the time it was 3999 which was an absolute bargain. It has paid out 2x-3x. Easycare has given me zero issues.

joeypapz

does easy care allow you to purchase directly from them or did you have to go through a dealer?

i just bought my 09' gts few weeks ago and it has already cost me over 1k..

Shawn Stanford

On what? Deferred maintenance?

Dilberto

Oh yeah. My next Cayenne will be a 2009-2010 GTS in Red, White, Nordic Gold, or Titanium...

joeypapz

Slow crank and misfires because of bad HP mechanical fuel pump. She's in the shop now. Didn't even get a chance to purchase the warranty. VW dealer quoted me at $12k for exclusionary coverage for 3years which from what I understand is pretty much covers everything.

bweSteve

Original owner PSMP transferred to me with my used '12 CTT when I bought it in Feb 2015,... so all the maintenance costs for the last 1.5 yrs have been FREE!

deilenberger

My - that dealer certainly is profit motivated. That's about 3x at a minimum what that coverage should cost.