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Old 11-28-2015, 02:26 PM
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skalex
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Default vibration in the steering wheel

Hi,
I have a cayenne turbo 2005.
I have had some vibration for some time, in the steering wheel, after 60 mph, and when I am in low RPM with a lot of torque.
I checked the main shaft, nothing, and I don't have any vibration in the arm rest.
I put the front wheels in the back, no change.
I checked everything under the car. The only issue I can see is the front passenger shaft from the transfer box to the wheel (transfer box side) has some play, as you can see in the video. I don't know if this is normal or not. Would anyone be willing to take a look at his own car to see if the play on the shaft is normal or not?


Thank you for your help.

Alex

Last edited by skalex; 12-03-2015 at 04:59 PM.
Old 11-28-2015, 02:32 PM
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docwyte
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How old and worn are your tires? How old and worn are your front lower control arms?
Old 11-28-2015, 03:51 PM
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skalex
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Hi Docwyte, thank for your answer.
Tires are 5000 miles and some months (but i have the vibration since months) , they are in really good shape and normal use marks.
i have no idea for the control arms, I didn't think to check them, i will this week end!
Did you see the video? is it normal to have this play in the passenger shaft?
Thank you again and have a good week end
Old 11-28-2015, 05:49 PM
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mtnrat
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Try a rebalance first. Also have the wheels looked at while spinning on the balance machine. What kind of wheels do you have and how many miles on the car?
Old 11-28-2015, 08:22 PM
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civerson4
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Originally Posted by mtnrat
Try a rebalance first. Also have the wheels looked at while spinning on the balance machine. What kind of wheels do you have and how many miles on the car?
+1

Cayenne's are very sensitive to tire balance. Find a Hunter Road Force balance machine at a local tire shop (their website has a search for nearby locations with the equipment) and have the tires/wheels rebalanced. I went through this years ago with a previous Cayenne--and no matter how hard the local shop tried, without a roadforce balance I had vibration issues. One try with a roadforce balance and all was solved. Good luck.
Old 11-28-2015, 09:28 PM
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Rob VN
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+2 on using the Hunter Road Force balancer used.

Ask them to calibrate the machine before checking your tires.

Good luck.
Old 11-29-2015, 02:02 AM
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AGARubberDuck
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I've been fighting this on mine as well. Road force balance less than 10lbs helps a lot, but something else is definitely going on. It seems to me a slight out-of-balance tire only amplifies the effect. I'd rather fix the problem than keep doing road force balances every month.

I've replaced:
Lower control arms,
Tie rod ends,
(Incedently, didn't expect an effect on this problem) new air springs,
Sway bar bushings,
Sway bar end links.
Brand spankin new 275/40r20 xIce2 on factory turbo wheels.
2 alignments at different shops,
Nearly countless balance, road force balance, and wheel/tire mount match hunter road force balancing. (Probably 10 different times all together)

Needless to say I'm a bit ticked at this thing, but plan of attack is:
1.Upper control arms
2. Brake job w/new rotors. Maybe one is unbalanced?
3. Steering rack.

It's expensive to demand perfection.
Old 11-29-2015, 12:39 PM
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docwyte
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What did it for me was changing tires and lower front control arms...
Old 11-30-2015, 10:35 AM
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wrinkledpants
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Originally Posted by AGARubberDuck
I've been fighting this on mine as well. Road force balance less than 10lbs helps a lot, but something else is definitely going on. It seems to me a slight out-of-balance tire only amplifies the effect. I'd rather fix the problem than keep doing road force balances every month.

I've replaced:
Lower control arms,
Tie rod ends,
(Incedently, didn't expect an effect on this problem) new air springs,
Sway bar bushings,
Sway bar end links.
Brand spankin new 275/40r20 xIce2 on factory turbo wheels.
2 alignments at different shops,
Nearly countless balance, road force balance, and wheel/tire mount match hunter road force balancing. (Probably 10 different times all together)

Needless to say I'm a bit ticked at this thing, but plan of attack is:
1.Upper control arms
2. Brake job w/new rotors. Maybe one is unbalanced?
3. Steering rack.

It's expensive to demand perfection.
My upper control arms are shot. Will be doing those soon. You might consider also doing the rubber strut mount bushing on the top of the shock since it has to come out.

I'm surprised you haven't done the rotors sooner. That would be top of my list right now.
Old 11-30-2015, 10:45 AM
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AGARubberDuck
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Originally Posted by wrinkledpants
My upper control arms are shot. Will be doing those soon. You might consider also doing the rubber strut mount bushing on the top of the shock since it has to come out.

I'm surprised you haven't done the rotors sooner. That would be top of my list right now.
Oh yeah, and the rubber stops. They come in the box with the air springs.
The thing about it is that the severity changes, not necessarily by speed. I can cruise 75mph for a 10-mile stretch and be ready to dump the damn thing at dealer-trade-in it's so bad, then it can magically get better for a while. I'd expect a rotor issue to feel like an unbalanced wheel/tire where it is constant depending on speed.
Old 11-30-2015, 10:56 AM
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wrinkledpants
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That's one of those issues that could drive one to trade it in

Another idea is engine/tranny/t-case mounts. Worn mounts can cause a pulsing or resonance in the chassis. Have you done the torque mount on the top of the motor?
Old 11-30-2015, 11:43 AM
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wrinkledpants
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View the last update on the "04 CTT TLC thread." He just had new engine mounts and talks about curing a vibration at hwy speeds that felt like out of balance tires.
Old 11-30-2015, 12:00 PM
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AGARubberDuck
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Originally Posted by wrinkledpants
View the last update on the "04 CTT TLC thread." He just had new engine mounts and talks about curing a vibration at hwy speeds that felt like out of balance tires.
Hmm, interesting. This could make sense. Certainly more than the marginally worn stuff I've been replacing.
Old 11-30-2015, 01:06 PM
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wrinkledpants
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My car isn't anywhere near being smooth at HWY speeds under WOT. But, I know my engine mounts are worn (vibration and idle dip being symptoms), plus - any german car I've owned has needed engine mounts around 120K miles. Chalk it up to the engine mounts needing to do a big job in handling all the power while still being silky smooth. I'll be calling in a few weeks to get a quote for them.
Old 12-03-2015, 05:07 PM
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skalex
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I just realized my video link was wrong, I updated it.
Can you tell me if it's normal?
I will try a new balance of my tires, but I switched front wheels with rear wheels and no differences at all.


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