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Have you used one of these? I assume these are the Chinese manufactured shafts - and wonder how the quality is.. (since you pretty much get what you pay for when manufacturing is done in China..)
Good?
Originally Posted by ciscorp
I just installed one and only have about 2 k miles on it. You could contact the company Propshaft Technix and inquire who makes the shaft. The shaft I replaced had not broken free yet but the rubber was cracked all the way around the support bearing and it was due for replacement in about 10 K miles. I replaced the shaft early because I starting towing a boat. New or Rebuilt the shaft support bearing seems to only last about 60 k. The Dealer replaced the last shaft and the shaft from Propshaft Technix has less vibration. My point is you can spend a lot of time and even more money rebuilding your current shaft yourself virus buying a new or already rebuilt shaft, if you elect to replace the entire shaft due to the failed support bearing rubber.
Hey CisCorp, Did you install this Propshaft Technix drive shaft, if so how is it holding up, any problems so far, vibration etc??
Finally my turn with this one. 66003 miles on a 2006 turbo S. Posting now Monday; happened Friday going WOT passing some dweeb or something and ... BOOM BOOM BOOM times 50 - VERY LOUD. Immediately knew what it was ... some loon with a Barrett 82A1 was shooting at me.
That guess proved wrong when I noticed that I wasn't dead. So, disappointed, I drove home, ordered the "Drive Shaft Clamping Bearing Support Mount for Porsche Cayenne & VW Touareg - THE ONLY PERMANENT FIX Sold by: Vertex Automotive " off of Amazon.com. Paid $359 with free shipping.
Also bought a 3M Professional Faceshield and a DEWALT DW4518 4-1/2-Inch by 1/8-Inch by 7/8-Inch General Purpose Metal Cutting Wheel ... all from Amazon. All no shipping. All actually arrived Monday morning which suggests that Amazon's Prime membership is good for something.
Truck has air suspension so brought it up to "Scrape the Ceiling" level, then because I have four Rhino Ramps I drove it up on all four of those. It then took me less than one hour to do the entire removal and installation. By far the hardest part is finding enough one sided razor blades to scrape all the rubber off the bearing surface. Took 19 razor blades, if you're counting, as they're only good for about 1/2" of rubber removal each.
Did not repack the bearing. Did not replace the BIG RUBBER DONUT THINGY that is included in the EPS kit that is sold by Vertex. Did not cut myself (this amazes me).
On a scale of 1 to 10 on the DIY mechanic's scale of knuckle busting jobs, with coolant pipe replacement on a turbo Cayenne being a 10 and washing it being a 1 ... I'd give this a 2. EASY.
Oh, you'll need earplugs as the cutting wheel screams like the ex-wife after she's had two bottles of wine and you've made comment about her weight.
Good luck all.
Hey look ... I'm a Super User, damn it.
So, there.
Last edited by JohnnyBahamas; 06-02-2015 at 03:15 PM.
Reason: I'm a super user, damn it ... I can edit stuff.
Worked for me. It's been about 1,000 miles and it looks and drives just fine. Now if only my flex pipe issue was this easy.
Flex pipes? Are you talking about the downpipes that run from the headers to the exhaust, and have the catalytics and O2 sensors? If so, I replaced the ones in my '05 V6 with the Touareg part. I think the cost was around $500, the Porsche equivalent was $1,400. The Touareg version had a welded bracket my indy had to cut off, but other than that it was the exact same part.
Any way this can be a DIY? What needs to be removed?
The way I look at it, it seems there should be someone selling a fix for this. Some thing like the same exhaust flange that is on the flex pipe that connects to the rest of the exhaust, with the flex pipe, with a connector collar on the other end of the flex pipe at th converter side.
Once the bracket was removed did support need to be added at a different location?
I don't see why any competent indy couldn't handle this repair, but I had mine done at Rayco in Kingston, PA. They do all the work on all my cars. The service department has always treated me well. I trust them implicitly.
98750 miles (158000 km for all you canucks out there) for the temple of cardandoom to split. funny thing is that all the pictures showing cutting out the rubber are from shafts removed from the truck lying on the bench. Jacked the suv up about a foot and a half, on the driver side, lying on my creepy crawler and under I went. Little awkward cutting the main bellow inside the metal clamp but a little elbow grease and brute force did the job. Then 10 or so minutes to cut and clean up the ring and bearing rubber and ready to go. For all you Canucks out there, crappy tire and Princess Auto didn't have any tubing so ended up at TSC and bought half inch air hose, total cost $1.90 tax all in ($5.59/m or about
$1.68/ft... bought a foot or 0.3m). Cut and zip wrapped as per instructions. The only difficult part was that if you zipped tied all the hose pieces on and then tried to push it onto the ring of the bearing, the end of the hose catches onto a rim of the bearing cuz it's a tight fit. I zip tied hose pieces from the 8 o'clock position to the 4 o'clock position, then placed the whole contraption onto the bearing and carefully placed the remaining hoses and zip ties in place making sure it didn't slip off the bearing ring. Bolted it back up and took it for a run, works great. Noise transmission is a little more noticeable and i believe it's from the stiffer hose, but it's a non moving part so it works for me in terms of more reliability. I wasn't sure if this way was the way i wanted to go, but i looked at it this way, who knows how long a replacement is going to last before it splits again and when I was doing the job, it occured to me that Jimi fix brings more reliability and peace of mind, and i can throw in spare hose parts and zip lock ties in the truck in case of an emergency. All in all about an hour job in total. This is a great idea from Diberto...hats off for sharing.
98750 miles (158000 km for all you canucks out there) for the temple of cardandoom to split. funny thing is that all the pictures showing cutting out the rubber are from shafts removed from the truck lying on the bench. Jacked the suv up about a foot and a half, on the driver side, lying on my creepy crawler and under I went. Little awkward cutting the main bellow inside the metal clamp but a little elbow grease and brute force did the job. Then 10 or so minutes to cut and clean up the ring and bearing rubber and ready to go. For all you Canucks out there, crappy tire and Princess Auto didn't have any tubing so ended up at TSC and bought half inch air hose, total cost $1.90 tax all in ($5.59/m or about
$1.68/ft... bought a foot or 0.3m). Cut and zip wrapped as per instructions. The only difficult part was that if you zipped tied all the hose pieces on and then tried to push it onto the ring of the bearing, the end of the hose catches onto a rim of the bearing cuz it's a tight fit. I zip tied hose pieces from the 8 o'clock position to the 4 o'clock position, then placed the whole contraption onto the bearing and carefully placed the remaining hoses and zip ties in place making sure it didn't slip off the bearing ring. Bolted it back up and took it for a run, works great. Noise transmission is a little more noticeable and i believe it's from the stiffer hose, but it's a non moving part so it works for me in terms of more reliability. I wasn't sure if this way was the way i wanted to go, but i looked at it this way, who knows how long a replacement is going to last before it splits again and when I was doing the job, it occured to me that Jimi fix brings more reliability and peace of mind, and i can throw in spare hose parts and zip lock ties in the truck in case of an emergency. All in all about an hour job in total. This is a great idea from Diberto...hats off for sharing.
My "Jimi fix" still looks UNDISTURBED.....14,750 miles later(1.2 years). Summer high temps here peak at 112F and the fix works GREAT. Remember - Ivan Stewart's 1997 Baja 500 Pit Chief hand-picked Jimi for his ability to think outside the box, on-the-fly....contributing to Ivan's WIN.
My drive shaft support failed without warning yesterday afternoon (08 GTS with 88K on the clock). I need to make a road trip in it this weekend and I thought I was screwed - until I remembered this thread.
About $10 and an hour later my "Jimi Fix" was in place. A quick maintenance test flight confirmed the fix. I even had enough left over to make a back-up kit in case it fails. I will keep an eye on it, but I like it.
Diberto, I packed those rubber hoses with zip ties in there like your indy did and as previously reported between 50 and 65 mph, there is a more noticeable rumble vs OEM rubber dam. I am wondering out loud here if anyone else has used "softer" hoses as the air hose I used is not quite squishy but not rock hard. Softer hoses thinking it would transmit less noise. Now I noticed Chipster didn't pack in the hoses like your indy did (as well as I did) so I'm wondering if it is packed (less) like Chipster, it would allow more cushioning of the shaft and thus make less noise? It lookes like Chipster used a reinforced heater hose. Anyone else notice increased noise and wondering what's the softest rubber hose people have used out there? 1000 miles and going strong, other than that noise... the current fix? go faster!
05-29-2015, 05:31 AM
