daylorb

Hello - I'm new to the forum! Great stuff in here! I owned a Boxster RS60 for several years and have always wanted a Cayenne. I'm looking at a few of them, mostly focused on a 2004 S. I've done quite a bit of reading on the forum in hopes of not posting a question that has been answered over and over. I've gotten a reasonable idea of some of the issues.

I was hoping someone might be able to help me out and clarify a few things before I take the plunge! So here is the deal...

I found a local 04 Cayenne S in Austin, 77K miles, $15k. Buying from one of those Tier-C dealers that always make you nervous... JD motors. http://www.texascarspot.com/inventor...Pkge-Austin-TX. Price as far as I can tell is just at KBB dealer, just above KBB private-sale (which is a better indicator). So I think it is within $1K or so of fair.

Cosmetically good, not perfect, but good. Drives pretty well, notable vibration at lowest speeds, some brake noise. After driving for 20 minutes can notice the smell of burnt oil under the hood, could be dripped onto the engine who knows.

Was able to call around town and find some history on it... The good news is that it was taken somewhat regularly to the local Porsche dealer between age 39k miles and 68K miles. Besides regular maintenance, here is what they did to it...

* Coolant pipes replaced at 60K miles - done by Porsche dealer
* Driveshaft replaced at 48K miles - done by Porsche dealer
* New front brake pads done at 68K miles
* Tiptronic sensor showed it needed replacement at 61K miles - customer opted not to replace
* Some regular maintenance

The dealer suspects that the customer had additional work done elsewhere in addition to their location, but is not certain. Control arms are not on the list that the dealer did.

Sorry for the information overload - here is what I was hoping to get some experienced advice on...

* I assume it is a good thing the pipes and shaft have already been done based on what I have read on the forum - am I right on this?

* From what I have read that vibration at low speed could be the control arm - although it doesn't grind/click. If these do need to be replaced - is this an expensive fix?

* My plan is to either have the PPI done at the dealer - for $150 - or take it to Moorespeed and have them do the $800 rectal exam - any thoughts?

* It is due for the 80K Major maintenance - not sure what that entails/costs?

Overall this will be a 2nd car/semi-daily driver around town, doubt I will put many miles on it, always loved these cars and seemed like a decent price. Curious if people think this seems like a fairly priced car, if there are concerns I should have, etc. Thanks a lot!!!

daylorb

Interestingly I also ran into this one locally: http://www.drive512.com/detail.aspx?...PrefID=0&.aspx.

The Autocheck had 54 line items - several on repeat repairs. The dealer selling it was very coy about the maintenance records - didn't have them, couldn't provide them, didn't know... a few calls around town turns out it was in multiple times for several issues as recently as last month - several times for transmission not shifting from 4-5, some issue with the steering, a loud whistling noise coming at idle... and they declined all repairs.

Guess I found at least one to stay away from....

Dan87951

$800 for a pre-purchase inspection? Good lord..

Go for the $150 one and if its extra have them do a compression and leak down test. The NA V8 motor's have a history of scored cylinders in colder climates.

daylorb

From what I understand, the PPI's from Moorespeed are ridiculously thorough - nothing goes un-touched. 8hrs of work. Not that I want to do it - if the car had the 80k check-up done I'd probably not be too concerned and go with the lighter.

Dan87951

But why on such an old car? As long as they check out the major stuff you can surely check out the smaller stuff (power options, road test). Its 2004 so there is bound to be some issues.. just be reasonable with your expectations and pocket the extra $650 for future repairs.

mtnrat

Control arms can be had for 540.00 not installed. Not hard to do.
Oil smell could be from leaking valve cover gaskets.
Brake noise could be the rears getting close or some debris between the rotor and pads.
In the ad it says advanced off road package. I don't see any of the things that go with that such as sway bar disconnect, locking rear diff, skidplates, and rear full size spare carrier. So that must be a mistake. A very rare option.

Lexlthr

As mtnrat said above it defiantly DOES NOT have the advanced off road package but, it does have the "Full Leather" interior. (Leather on the dash, front console and doors that is usually plastic/ vinyl.)

daylorb

Thanks - that is very helpful. From what I understand the basic PPI should be able to diagnose the control arms. I'd be the oil smell is from leaking valve covers.

The dealer selling it said they would replace the valve gaskets... It doesn't seem like a complicated job, but it sounded like he was going to have his on-site mechanic do it, always a little dicey.

Thanks for pointing out the off-road package. I assumed that as well and didn't price it out with it. Not something I'd need in any case.

Will keep you posted how it goes - I am going to offer them $14K as long as nothing is majorly wrong outside the control arms, and they fix the valve cover gasked.

mudman2

In my opinion based on the LOW mileage that car stood around a lot. If you have $5K laying around go for it if not run don't walk find an 05 at least

seafeye

I have 88,000 on my 2004. Got it at 66 ,000.
7000-8000/year seems reasonable. I'd personally prefer having a car with less mls.
Since getting mine I've done:
Drive shaft.
All gear oil changes.
Headliner.
All rotors/pads.
Oil changes.
Horns.
Installed trailer braking module.
Tires.
Battery.
Fuel system had a leak.
Fixed a squeeky steering issue. ($0.10)

Still has little nic nacs that were broken from the previous owner. Just interior plastic bits.
I think the truck should be maint free for the next 40,000 miles. Till the driveshaft needs replacing again.
For $15,000. These cars are a lot of car for the money.

dryadsdad

Hey, you are in charge. Be sure to tell the guy doing your PPI to pay specific attention to the control arms.

daylorb

I thought it seemed like a reasonable amount of miles, but then again I only drive about 5-6k/year per car.

Tires btw are brand new which is nice. Front brakes were done at dealer - they have the record on that. Pads only. I thought the rotors were pretty much bomb-proof, although I'd probably do them DIY so that one doesn't concern me too much.

seafeye

Pretty easy to do rotors. You do need 2 special tools. One small triple square bit for the screw that secures the rotor and a large triple square for the bolts to remove the rear caliper. The fronts just have regular 17mm bolts. Why do they have triple square on the back and hex on the front? NFI.

Usually you get 2 pad changes out of the front but the rears tend to get only 1. Maybe heavy car? I dunno.
Figure full rotor/pads can be done for $500. Not including labor.

Shawn Stanford

^This.

It sounds like all the big, expected things (tubes, shaft) are done, and that some of the other niggles (brakes) are maintenance items. If you find yourself a capable indy, and take care of the simple stuff yourself (i.e.: brakes, coils), Unless something horrible happens that $5k for unexpected stuff should cover you.

Don't be rushed, though. There are plenty of first-gen P!gs out there in that price/mileage range.

(FWIW: I'm not a particularly good wrench. However, I find the Cayenne to be fairly straightforward and easy to work on.)

v10rick

Owned my 2004 S 4+ years, presently with 75K mi. I did not escape any of the most common issues. Replaced the coolant pipes as as a precaution while the water pump was replaced.

I don't see the benefit of a pre purchase inspection unless you suspect it was wrecked. How can they tell if the fuel pumps are about to go along with any of the other common faults, like transfer case seal, lift gate switch, water pump, radio/amp. front trans seal (if the coolant pipes let go before they leaked) etc. etc.

Pay attention to alignments otherwise you will be replacing tires more frequently. 15K mi is common however with a summer/winter tire I am pushing 30K mi and counting.

You may get a year or two with no issues and then get dinged with a few. Just keep a reserve to cover these things and enjoy the ride.