bigbuzuki

Yep, changed the starter in 2013 and problem solved. Never missed a beat since,

RSbob

Did you pull codes? I had something similar and the remote was not correctly programmed.

JAGMAN1

I love a good figure skaters pirouette

RSbob

My 08 S has the same symptoms. Starts fine cold and when warm, does not start approx one out three attempts. Looks like a new starter is in my future.

Anyone persevered until complete starter failure and if so for how long from first issue to death?

liljohnny

If it's a standard, it's likely the cutch interlock switch!

pbarch1

Mine just started doing this again. It appears that starters are a wear item in hot climates.
I replaced mine 4 years ago. looks like I'll be doing it again soon.,

BrianC72gt

How long before starter death? I got two(2) years from the first no start on first try to lots of second tries to failure. Suddenly, without warning, just like that. Hah. I had to dust off the new starter sitting on the shelf and did the turbo tees from jagsthatrun and everything that crumbled when i touched it while I was in there.

Chensley

I've got a '10 GTS with 73k miles and just recently discovered broken coolant vent line under the intake which had flooded that areas with coolant. While in there I decided to change out the starter since I wasn't sure to what extent the one there took a coolant bath. Finished the job today and got it restarted. Took a drive to exchange the starter core at the auto parts store, and when I went to leave to come home I turned the key and it cranked for a second and then nothing. Took the key out, reinserted and turned to on position slowly, waited a second then tried again but nothing. I got out and could hear what must have been fans in the engine bay cranking away full blast. Got in tried again and same thing again. I thought for sure something went seriously south on the new starter, but decided to go borrow a wrench in the auto parts store to pull the negative battery terminal again and let it sit for a few, then put it back. That did the trick and it started right up again.

Not sure I trust it now though. Going to take some short trips in it to make sure it's not going to do it again before taking it on a long drive anywhere for sure.

grubscrew

[
My 2008 pig has same issue did you ever get to the bottom of it

QUOTE=GRA;12199232]I have the same issue with my new to me 957 turbo. Trying to start it straight away it cranks a quarter turn then cuts off, it does this every time. Waiting ~8 seconds between inserting the key and turning it and the problem never happens[/QUOTE]

vchris1987

Since I replaced the starter, no issues at all.

grubscrew

OK, I've replaced the starter, new battery, starter relay and purchased a piwis 2 and also have a durametric. The car still starts but sometimes takes a couple of attempts, the starter will turn the engine for a second and then just stop. Try again and it may or may not do the same thing again. Or it may just turn over fine. I'm tearing my hair out here. The fuel pressure is running at 40bar, the active graphs show the fuel pumps are running, any help would be appreciated

ScootCherHienie

Cayenne keys work like a momentary contact button, not like cars that will keep cranking as long as you have the key turned in the ignition. You get like a 1-second turnover each time you turn the key no matter how long you hold the key in the "start" position. If the engine doesn't start, you have to turn the key back and have another go at it. A funky crankshaft position sensor could cause a reluctance to start. A depleted battery will do the same thing... if the charge is down 25%-30%, you start to require multiple key twists to start. One indicator that the battery is weak is that the rear hatch may not raise--Owner's Manual says that's one of the first things to stop working when the battery's state of charge is not ideal. Check for dampness under the carpet in the padding... the carpet will feel completely dry so you really have to lift the carpet in a couple of places to find out if there's water getting inside. Wiring harnesses pass across the floor and connectors and splices may not be waterproof and you can get a high resistance short to ground that almost imperceptably drains the battery all the time. If the padding is damp, find the DIY section here to locate the roof drains and remove the little caps on them and just don't bother putting them back on... grit and dirt get stuck in the caps and after some years, the cap gets completely plugged and water that should drain onto the ground, finds its way down body panels behind trim where you can't see it and it doesn't stop till it gets to the floor. If the problem is in the front seat, one of the front roof drains is backed up. If the problem is in the low points of the cargo compartment under the floor, one of the rear roof drains is plugged up. You don't have to "clean" the roof drains, just pull the caps and if water runs out, that roof drain was plugged (this is common to all cars with roof drains, they can and do leak the same way). The damn little caps are poorly designed for the job. While you're looking at the crankshaft position sensor, check the cam sensors too, and MAF sensor. Inspect coil packs for cracks too. Oh, and if the water is in the back seat foot-wells... could be any roof drain leaking.

Seapbmw

Had the same issue on my ‘09 Cayenne, had the 2 year old battery load tested and all was good. Turned out to be a bad ignition switch, a common problem with these models. New switch now and all is good.

grubscrew

Thanks you both for your replies, the car has a brand new battery so this I can rule out, I am getting a code for crankshaft position sensor and have already replaced both camshaft sensors. The car is dry inside under the carpet so maybe a new ignition switch could be the next thing to try

deilenberger

Crankshaft position sensors are not camshaft sensors. Rather than throwing parts at it on a guess (the ignition switch), I'd be pursuing the crankshaft position sensor. Check its wiring. I'm not sure if the one on your car is a simple reluctance one (can be checked with an engine scope, probably the PIWIS, and likely the Durametric) or a hall-effect sensor... but I'd want to eliminate that before tossing a new ignition switch in.