Notices
Cayenne 955-957 2003-2010 1st Generation
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Coolant pipes A-Z.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-31-2015, 12:35 PM
  #466  
deilenberger
Banned
 
deilenberger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Spring Lake, NJ, US of A
Posts: 10,085
Received 1,140 Likes on 758 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by touareg
So I would like to do my 957, but nervous messing with the fuel rail for DFI, does anyone have to torque specs for all the things that come out?

Also how do I get the fuel out of there when things come apart?
If you're talking the coolant pipes - the 957 doesn't have the same pipes or the same problems. Different engine. Different pipes.
Old 08-31-2015, 12:36 PM
  #467  
deilenberger
Banned
 
deilenberger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Spring Lake, NJ, US of A
Posts: 10,085
Received 1,140 Likes on 758 Posts
Default

BTW - has anyone heard anything on the Class Action Lawsuit lately? It seems this is dragging on forever..
Old 08-31-2015, 01:51 PM
  #468  
Sniffer
Rennlist Member
 
Sniffer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 802
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by deilenberger
If you're talking the coolant pipes - the 957 doesn't have the same pipes or the same problems. Different engine. Different pipes.
You're correct, they are different and predominately made of metal now but I *think* theres still one or two plastic pipes lurking in there? Not sure if that will be an issue like the 955s but time will tell

It seems the barb coming out of the coolant distributor is the bigger issue on the 957s (its only pressed/glued in), supposedly there is a redesigned part where the barb is screwed in which fixes the problem.
Old 09-08-2015, 05:32 PM
  #469  
rbaron
Racer
 
rbaron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 381
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by deilenberger
BTW - has anyone heard anything on the Class Action Lawsuit lately? It seems this is dragging on forever..
I looked at it this morning. To recap: The one person who felt herself aggrieved enough by the Federal District Court's approval of the settlement to appeal it lodged an appeal with the 6th Circuit Court of Appeals, and then proceeded to miss various deadlines for briefing. IIRC the Circuit finally held against her in July and within the last ten days said, in legalese, 'no mas'.

Again, if I remember correctly, she would have 90 days from that July date to ask the US Supreme Court to review the approval of the settlement. If I was a lawyer representing any party (the class or Porsche) in this case I'm not sure I'd authorize release of the settlement funds to the approved class members until her last avenue of appeal was foreclosed. She is tenacious to a fault and, to paraphrase what Bill Clinton once said in another context, she's in it until the last dog dies.

Hope This Helps.

--Lawyer Bob
Old 09-09-2015, 04:24 PM
  #470  
PepperLuv
Intermediate
 
PepperLuv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: NEW JERSEY
Posts: 36
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default shade tree coolant pipe replacement

Well looks like I will be tackling this job myself on our '05 Cayenne Turbo.
Car has close to 100,000 miles and it appears like the pipes have never been changed.

Dealer wanted $2800 for the job and service guy did not know anything about the plastic tee fittings on the turbo. So if I wanted that done it will be extra and they will probably just put same style plastic back in.

I plan to attempt to change those as well myself. Problem is I would like to find Stainless barb tees but am having a heck of a job finding large SS barb tee fittings anywhere.

Does anyone know a source and exactly what size these are? I assume these are about 32mm or 1.25"?
Old 09-09-2015, 10:47 PM
  #471  
mtnrat
Drifting
 
mtnrat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Canadian Rockies
Posts: 3,250
Received 548 Likes on 346 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by PepperLuv
Well looks like I will be tackling this job myself on our '05 Cayenne Turbo.
Car has close to 100,000 miles and it appears like the pipes have never been changed.

Dealer wanted $2800 for the job and service guy did not know anything about the plastic tee fittings on the turbo. So if I wanted that done it will be extra and they will probably just put same style plastic back in.

I plan to attempt to change those as well myself. Problem is I would like to find Stainless barb tees but am having a heck of a job finding large SS barb tee fittings anywhere.

Does anyone know a source and exactly what size these are? I assume these are about 32mm or 1.25"?
Go to page 30 of this thread. They are not barbed, but they guy does real good work. The sizes are written on the T's.
Old 09-10-2015, 11:01 AM
  #472  
PepperLuv
Intermediate
 
PepperLuv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: NEW JERSEY
Posts: 36
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default Tee sizes

Thank you mtnrat, I should have found that part of the thread but I guess I was getting dazed looking through all these posts in this and other threads about pipe replacement. The JTR machined tees are from aluminum but that should be fine even though I was hoping to find Stainless Steel tees.

At this point it seems I am spending as much time making sure I have everything I need for doing the job right than actually doing the job! We'll see. I have a list of parts and tools that is about $1000- now.

I contacted 2 more Porsche Stealerships and got better install prices than the first, however neither one knew anything about the Tee fittings on the turbo and both were not going to replace them with the job. If I insist they will replace with same fittings anyway. And I definately do not want to put the same plastic Tee fittings back in there!

Another concern I have and can't seem to find an answer to is related to the fitting that connects to the coolant distribution manifold at rear of engine. I believe this is where the turbo large tee hose connects to? On '08 Cayennes it seems there is a problem with these pulling out due to the glue used does not hold up. Is this same design on earlier years? Is this hose barb also just glued into the manifold on the '05? Should I pin it (drill and tap - insert set screw) if I can while doing everything else??
Old 09-16-2015, 05:59 PM
  #473  
jkarp
Advanced
 
jkarp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Add another one to the cracked coolant pipe list! I have an '05 Turbo with 55k miles. I was on the freeway doing about 90mph and started smelling coolant, followed by the check coolant light. I immediately pulled over and turned the car off and had it towed. One of the lower pipes had cracked.

Total damage was $2700 for parts and labor from a local spot called Avalon Motorsports. They replaced the thermostat and starter as well.

...Josh
Old 09-29-2015, 12:48 PM
  #474  
PepperLuv
Intermediate
 
PepperLuv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: NEW JERSEY
Posts: 36
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default Coolant pipe job in process

This weekend I tackled the Coolant pipe job on our '05 Cayenne Turbo. It took much more time for me than most of the postings here indicated. Sat-Sun and most of Monday and job is still not finished.
In hindsight I would say prices I received from Dealers are not excessive considering the amount of work involved with this job. Not that I am a complete novice to car repair but this car is new to me I am unfamiliar with the engine compartment. The next time will be much quicker for me, no solicitations please

Actually, I had to remove the intake manifold a second time since I did the unconscionable thing and broke a manifold bolt in the head while tightening the last bolt on the manifold. I guess I was tightening too quickly when I "smelt the barn at the end of the road". So off comes the intake again and get out the screw extractor set. These bolts are smaller than they appear from the size of the head, 7mm screw, and break quite easy. These screws are also probably stainless making them weaker than a comparable steel screw (OK, trying to justify my screw-up). Luckily the stud came out pretty easy. Not like a rusted timing chain cover/water pump bolt on a 1989 Ford F250 - did that job a few years ago. Well second time removing the manifold went lickity split fast in about 1/2 hour!

A big reason for me to tackle this job myself was that none of Dealers I got quotes from wanted to change the two rear plastic coolant tees on turbo. Even if I did get them to do this job they would put genuine Porsche parts back in, i.e. plastic tees. I wanted to change these to metal tees. Thanks to this forum I found out about the existence of the tees and the source for the metal tees. While a big part of this job is being familiar with how everything comes apart I doubt it is a job for a local generic auto repair shop unless of course they have done the job before. I am sure a Porsche Dealer tech can get this done pretty quick once he has done a few. However another reason to do yourself is that no tech will spend the time you yourself will spend on getting everything clean and be careful to keep dirt out of hoses and cavities like you would. To be fair, a shop needs to be somewhat conscious of time spent on the job as well. For instance I spent at least an hour getting the aluminum corrosion cleaned up on the coolant pipe ports. The worst was the front lower hose port which was also the worst pipe to remove. I spent more time on this than the rear turbo tees. I mangled the coolant pipe sleeve (and my knuckles) something awful trying to get this sleeve out from the port. I suspect this may have also been leaking slightly by the amount of corrosion present. This port is part of the engine block and any damage to it will be a major job to repair. Poor design PORSCHE! I guess it may be a job for JB Weld if it gets that bad where pipe O-rings will not seal.

Another thought I had is that as these cars age, ours is 10 years and 100K miles, this coolant pipe job will get more and more difficult than what is shown early in this thread from a few years ago.

I found many brittle pipes and hoses and broke a few myself. I found the small plastic tee at the firewall was already broken and had been for some time judging by the oil and dirt around it. I replaced this with a stainless steel tee. The crankcase vent pipes were very brittle and broke easily trying to remove them. The anchor clips for wiring tray that goes along top of heads were also all broken. I was wondering what those little white pieces of plastic were down in the Engine Valley after I removed pipes.

Checked the coils and plugs "while I was in there". Coils look like
they were good, no cracks, and probably were replaced before BERU
#0040102012. Plugs look fouled and in need of replacement.
Other thing I noticed there seems to be oil leaking but not as bad as
a drip, on right front side of engine near turbo unit. Leak not
visible from underside unless bottom pan is removed. Any ideas what
is going on there?
Old 09-29-2015, 01:57 PM
  #475  
Sniffer
Rennlist Member
 
Sniffer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 802
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by PepperLuv
This weekend I tackled the Coolant pipe job on our '05 Cayenne Turbo. It took much more time for me than most of the postings here indicated. Sat-Sun and most of Monday and job is still not finished.
In hindsight I would say prices I received from Dealers are not excessive considering the amount of work involved with this job. Not that I am a complete novice to car repair but this car is new to me I am unfamiliar with the engine compartment. The next time will be much quicker for me, no solicitations please

Actually, I had to remove the intake manifold a second time since I did the unconscionable thing and broke a manifold bolt in the head while tightening the last bolt on the manifold. I guess I was tightening too quickly when I "smelt the barn at the end of the road". So off comes the intake again and get out the screw extractor set. These bolts are smaller than they appear from the size of the head, 7mm screw, and break quite easy. These screws are also probably stainless making them weaker than a comparable steel screw (OK, trying to justify my screw-up). Luckily the stud came out pretty easy. Not like a rusted timing chain cover/water pump bolt on a 1989 Ford F250 - did that job a few years ago. Well second time removing the manifold went lickity split fast in about 1/2 hour!

A big reason for me to tackle this job myself was that none of Dealers I got quotes from wanted to change the two rear plastic coolant tees on turbo. Even if I did get them to do this job they would put genuine Porsche parts back in, i.e. plastic tees. I wanted to change these to metal tees. Thanks to this forum I found out about the existence of the tees and the source for the metal tees. While a big part of this job is being familiar with how everything comes apart I doubt it is a job for a local generic auto repair shop unless of course they have done the job before. I am sure a Porsche Dealer tech can get this done pretty quick once he has done a few. However another reason to do yourself is that no tech will spend the time you yourself will spend on getting everything clean and be careful to keep dirt out of hoses and cavities like you would. To be fair, a shop needs to be somewhat conscious of time spent on the job as well. For instance I spent at least an hour getting the aluminum corrosion cleaned up on the coolant pipe ports. The worst was the front lower hose port which was also the worst pipe to remove. I spent more time on this than the rear turbo tees. I mangled the coolant pipe sleeve (and my knuckles) something awful trying to get this sleeve out from the port. I suspect this may have also been leaking slightly by the amount of corrosion present. This port is part of the engine block and any damage to it will be a major job to repair. Poor design PORSCHE! I guess it may be a job for JB Weld if it gets that bad where pipe O-rings will not seal.

Another thought I had is that as these cars age, ours is 10 years and 100K miles, this coolant pipe job will get more and more difficult than what is shown early in this thread from a few years ago.

I found many brittle pipes and hoses and broke a few myself. I found the small plastic tee at the firewall was already broken and had been for some time judging by the oil and dirt around it. I replaced this with a stainless steel tee. The crankcase vent pipes were very brittle and broke easily trying to remove them. The anchor clips for wiring tray that goes along top of heads were also all broken. I was wondering what those little white pieces of plastic were down in the Engine Valley after I removed pipes.

Checked the coils and plugs "while I was in there". Coils look like
they were good, no cracks, and probably were replaced before BERU
#0040102012. Plugs look fouled and in need of replacement.
Other thing I noticed there seems to be oil leaking but not as bad as
a drip, on right front side of engine near turbo unit. Leak not
visible from underside unless bottom pan is removed. Any ideas what
is going on there?
Sounds like faulty O rings?

Look here - clicky
Old 10-01-2015, 04:31 PM
  #476  
PepperLuv
Intermediate
 
PepperLuv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: NEW JERSEY
Posts: 36
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default leftover part ID please

I have this rubber/plastic isolation clip left from this coolant pipe job and I can't seem to ID where this came from. The plastic spring clip that anchors this part broke off of it but I cannot remember where it came from. There is a part number on it but I have not been able to look up the part from that number: DE 948.110.206.00

Does anyone know where this comes from?

Old 10-13-2015, 04:32 PM
  #477  
MartyHeidi
2nd Gear
 
MartyHeidi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Coolant Pipes vs Thermostat

I have a question, I'm looking at a 2008 Turbo and I see that the Dealership replaced a thermostat at about 24k miles. What are the odds that they would have replaced the coolant pipes at the same time? Or would a thermostat replacement be much simpler than the coolant pipes?

Thanks for any input.
Old 10-13-2015, 05:57 PM
  #478  
rbaron
Racer
 
rbaron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 381
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by MartyHeidi
I have a question, I'm looking at a 2008 Turbo and I see that the Dealership replaced a thermostat at about 24k miles. What are the odds that they would have replaced the coolant pipes at the same time? Or would a thermostat replacement be much simpler than the coolant pipes?

Thanks for any input.
What did they say when you asked them?
Old 10-13-2015, 06:09 PM
  #479  
mtnrat
Drifting
 
mtnrat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Canadian Rockies
Posts: 3,250
Received 548 Likes on 346 Posts
Default

PepperLuv, You are now an expert. Awesome work on getting the metal T's in.
Old 10-13-2015, 08:10 PM
  #480  
PepperLuv
Intermediate
 
PepperLuv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: NEW JERSEY
Posts: 36
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default Coolant pipe & tees

I will confess I left a small rubber hose unchanged.
The long hose 3/4" coolant that connects to the metal tee (only on the turbos).
Bottom of that hose is pretty far down back of engine and hose looked fine as did the other 3/4 rubber hoses that connected to the other legs of the tee. This guy was way down and there told me he did not want to leave without a fight so I did not argue. I did find that on early years there is no barb fitting on the rear coolant dist manifold. Different design than '06 and prior years. So Porsche fixed plastic coolant pipe problem but created a new problem in '08 with glued fitting that lasts just as short a period as the old "plastic pipes on the prior design!



The old part is on the left. You can see the cut marks where i cut it to remove it. I found the best tool for this is a Carpet Cutting knife. The curved blade is perfect for getting down behind the engine and using upward pulling motion is a breeze to slice through the rubber. Box cutter knife and pocket knife were just not the right angle to get in there while applying pressure to the blade.


Here is hose I did not replace.

I took a bunch of pictures and will post more as I can. Perhaps on a separate thread.
The following users liked this post:
daviday (04-06-2024)


Quick Reply: Coolant pipes A-Z.



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 06:26 PM.