racer_65

Recently my brake is making a squeaking noise if I release it from a stop and keep the car rolling at low speed. I suspect the caliper is not fully releasing.

I took the car to the dealer, and they said the possibilities include needing a brake fluid flush, pad and rotor replacement, or other mechanical issue with the brake system. Obviously, only the last possibility will be covered by warranty. They said a brake fluid flush is required maintenance every 2 years. Pad change is $500; pad + rotor is around $950. Inspection is $160/hr. At this point, I was feeling like if I leave the car there, they're going to work me for quite a bit of money.

I'd like to seek some wisdom from this group:

1. At 21,000 miles, is it possible the car needs new front pads? (Dealer says they've changed some at 10K miles)

2. When changing the front pads, is there any reason the rotors have to be changed?

3.Does everyone here flush their brake fluid every 2 years by the book? (I've never done that with any of the cars I've owned)

JPhillips-998

1. Unlikely but possible. Mine went 35,000. Easy enough to give them a visual check.
2. More unlikely that you need rotors. Again, simple check with a caliper
3. Yes, I flush my brake fluid. By a Motive Power Bleeder and it's an hour job.

Dennis C

I think it's possible to need front pads at 21,000 miles. It depends on how you drive. My original pads lasted about 40,000 miles.

Porsche recommends changing the rotors and the pads each time, but you can get away with pads only if the rotors are still within specifications. I'd want to check the thickness as well as the general condition - are there any deep grooves, etc.

I didn't flush my brake fluid when I changed my pads. I checked and it looked fine, so I left it.

ltc

Yes.
(however, for a Cayenne, let it rust from moisture in the brake fluid)

JPhillips-998

hmmm....

it's about moisture not about being clean...nothing to "see".

racer_65

I haven't checked my manual yet, but does it provide the spec on what should be the acceptable thickness?

What is a Motive Power Bleeder?

JPhillips-998

It's a one-man brake bleeder that really simplifies the flushing/bleeding process. Under $100.00 and well worth the cost. http://store.nexternal.com/shared/St...unt2=540046334

racer_65

[
Thanks a lot! So does the Euopean bleeder work?

http://store.nexternal.com/shared/St...unt2=164725899

What is the process to bleed?

Would doing the brake work (or any maintenance for that matter) yourself affect the warranty?

On a related matter, I haven't had the dealer do the 20K service, other than the oil change. I don't see anything in the manual that I cannot check myself.

JPhillips-998

I'll give you the quick and dirty...

Fill bleeder w/new fluid
Remove brake fluid reservoir cap from car
Attach the bleeder cap to the car
Jack up car (I do all 4)
Remove tires
Pressurize the bleeder (pump handle)
Start at Right Rear and open the bleed screws w/a hose attached to the nipple and catch can (there are two on each caliper
Next is Left Rear
Next is Right Front
Last is Left Front (you are going from the furthest to the closest caliper to reservoir)

Be sure to chec k to make sure you still have pressure and fluid in the bleeder between each caliper. You do not want to induce air into the lines. When you are done slowly unscrew the bleeder from the reservoir and evacuate excess fluid with a turkey baster or something similar.

Replace the cap, tires and you are all set.

I have been told if you keep your receipts for parts and supplies you should be okay w/the warranty.

The only problem that you might have by not using the dealer for the 20K is the "service now" light will flash on at start up.

ltc

Yes, brake fluid is ridiculously hygroscopic.
On a track, moisture in the fluid will boil, turn to vapor, thus leading to a soft brake pedal (and perhaps a 'Code Brown' moment....something kept between you and your dry cleaner)
On the street, moisture will eventually take its toll on pistons and seals.

racer_65

>>The only problem that you might have by not using the dealer for the 20K is the "service now" light will flash on at start up.

Funny I have not seen that light at 21K miles. Perhaps the dealer reset it when I had the oil changed at around 18K miles.

racer_65

Do you think the fluid could be causing the problem to begin with? The car (and therefore the fluid) is barely 2 years old.

ltc

Could be a sensor, could be a stuck piston/pad dragging....I don't think it's fluid related.

Dennis C

Glad you posted that. I'll flush mine.

hk_usp9f

I got mine flushed at the 2-year mark. I've seen the damage that moisture can do to the pistons on an older car of mine many years ago.