khandielas

Hi, all, good day.
I can feel shaking on my 2008 Cayenne base when braking, but there is no dash warning. I check the pads and rotors and looks like they are worn badly. It makes me wonder whether the base model is equipped with brake censors at all?
The front caliber is marked with 17Z, so it is 330mm. But how can I check whether there is brake censors without removing the wheels?
I want to order rotors and pads now and want to know which kind I should order. Many thanks.

Wisconsin Joe

It should be.

Keep in mind that the sensors are for detecting pad wear. Once the pads wear to a certain point, the circuit is broken & the warning goes off.

They won't do anything for bad rotors.

Lots of choices out there, this has been discussed a bunch.

deilenberger

There are front and rear sensors - the difference is the cable length. If you go to many Porsche websites, you can enter your VIN# and shop by VIN - giving you a better chance to get the right parts. AFAIK - the sensors were all the same for all the models, but Porsche might have thought otherwise. Aftermarket sensors should work just fine - and are probably an order of magnitude less expensive than Porsche branded ones.

BTW - if you're not getting brake warning messages - either your sensors are ok, meaning the pads aren't badly worn yet, or someone removed the sensors and twisted the wires together to disable the warning light. If the vehicle was purchased from a less than Porsche dealership (ie - Joes Used Luxury Cars - on the corner) it's not uncommon to see them disabled. In any case - the sensors become brittle with age/heat so if you're changing pads it's a good idea to buy the sensors before you start the job. Chances are good at least 1 will break on removal from the pad.

NelaK

My recommendation is to just go to Rockauto.com and order whichever set of rotors are cheapest. Order the brake sensors, they are $5 each so you might as well though sometimes they come with the brake pads or rotors too anyways.

Brake pads are probably the only thing where you might want to pick depending on people's reviews. Personally I'd just go with a cheap set of Bosch pads for no reason other than they'll probably be pretty close to the OEM feel.

Edit: to check for sensors, depending on your wheels you might be able to stick your hand in between the spokes and feel or see around the side of the caliper. If there are sensors which there should be, there will be a wire going in there.

deilenberger

Unnecessary. EACH corner has a sensor. Buy 2 fronts, 2 rear and just replace them when doing the pads. FWIW - I've never seen the sensors included with pads or rotors. They might be included if one was to buy a complete brake "kit" - which generally comes with pads/rotors/sensors and the anti-rattle/squeal springs.

19psi

They were included with both sets of pads I bought from Pelican. Fronts were oem Brembo and rears were something by Bosch.
Even if you choose a brand that doesn't include them, they're only like $7 each.
Hopefully some inept hack didn't bypass your original sensors by cutting off the factory connectors and twisting the wires together.

Pillow

FTFY

FCP Euro for the Lifetime warranty. Also they carry decent quality OEM parts, so you are getting the good stuff. Pelican is great too, but no lifetime warranty. eEuroparts just started Lifetime Warranty as well if you like them as a supplier.

khandielas

Thank you for all your reply.
deilenberger is right, those brake censors are disabled by the previous owner.



The retainer pin is rusty and stuck, it took a lot of time and penetrating fluid to remove them. The front 13/16 rotor bolt is 200 lb torque, not easy to loose it. It takes me 5 hours to replace all rotors and pads. Feel very good to finish the job. There is no any meat left on one of the front one, so just metal against metal now. See the picture above, there is why it needs the censor.




I found it is very interesting, among the 5 wheel lug bolts, there are always 4 regular ones and 1 with that xzn type teeth. It happens to each wheel, don't know why.

Still don't know how to manage to put jack stand under the truck when jack up front, so I just use the floor jack to hold the car up.
When I try to remove that 200lb torque bolts, I really worry it won't hold.

Mark7000

Still don't know how to manage to put jack stand under the truck when jack up front, so I just use the floor jack to hold the car up.
-------
Please do not do that.
There are lots of good places to put jack stands. The base of the lower A-arm is a good spot, for one.

NelaK

That xzn style bolt is your security bolt. It is there to prevent someone from just randomly stealing your wheels. It's pretty normal. The socket to remove them should be in the trunk of your vehicle.

khandielas

Mark7000, thanks, next time, I will put the under lower control arm.
Nelak, that is what I figure too, thanks.

NelaK

By the way - you might want to consider replacing your lug bolts or cleaning the rust. The darker bands of rust in the threads of a couple of them looks like they're getting pretty bad. The lighter surface rust doesn't matter as much but the darker bands usually mean that section of thread has been badly eaten away by the rust. Mine were looking just a little worse and a few of them nearly seized into the hubs and were a complete pain to remove.

I soaked my bolts in Krud Kutter Rust Remover for about an hour and then gently scrubbed with a brush before rinsing with water. It removed most of the rust but I think before my next tire change, I will probably order new bolts.