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955 Turbo Oil Change...Tools Need?

Old 05-22-2019, 11:28 PM
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DWPC
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Default 955 Turbo Oil Change...Tools Need?

Decided to change the oil myself and save the price of a good dinner. I didn't see a post specific to a 955 Turbo oil change in the DIY Forum. It's not clear whether 955 oil drain plugs are hex or T-heads, or both the same size. Sizes will be appreciated, as well as any other tips. Torque the filter housing or hand tight? Also wondering if the filter tool is a generic size sold at the parts store or special to Porsche?
Old 05-23-2019, 02:26 AM
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phatz
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https://www.google.com/search?q=955+Turbo+Oil+Change
Old 05-23-2019, 03:57 AM
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oldskewel
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I bet someone on this site has already put together a good DIY on this job.

I've got a 2004 S, and I think the procedure is the same for turbo's prior to 2008.

For me, here are my notes, which I think answer all your detailed questions:
cayenne svc manual, p40 - oil change
one 99610722553 Mahle oil filter
9+ quarts Mobil1 0W-40 full synthetic, European car formula
remove panels, including little wing things near the front. At rear of main central panel, it can just slide/pivot out of there. No need to remove screws back there. Easier if not removing those screws.

TWO drain plugs (both need to come out) - 50 Nm, new washers, 8mm Allen, M18x1.5mm threads, no magnet, 900-219-009-30. Be sure to press/tap/hammer Allen socket all the way in deep before torquing, otherwise it will mar the soft Aluminum plugs (as was done in the past on my car).
tool 9204 to remove oil filter housing. 74 mm, 14 flutes. Readily available at stores like Pep Boys.
new filter and o-ring on filter housing
housing torque to 25 Nm
8.75 liters
2x 900-123-106-30 oil drain plug washer 18 x 24 x 1.5mm
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Old 05-23-2019, 09:50 AM
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MKITGO2
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oldskewel's directions are the same for our Turbos. From my experience doing my '04 for the first time, be ginger with the drain plugs (recessed Hex sucks especially in aluminum... wish they'd just done a regular bolt) If yours is like mine (having been in quick lube locations before) they may already be rounded somewhat... I would have spares on hand to replace afterwards, they were only $10 at the dealer. Also some copper washers to replace the old is a good idea.

For the filter housing, its plastic and if it's oily and dirty can be a PITA without the proper wrench... I grabbed this one which worked like a charm....
Amazon Amazon

I would also have a look at your filter housing and the flats (where the wrench will connect) to make sure its not rounded/stripped as well... might be worth picking up a new one in advance too...

When putting the new filter back in, be sure to lube the o ring with a little bit of oil, so it doesn't rip or get damaged going back in.

8.75 litres doesn't drain quickly be sure to have a beer or coffee on hand while you wait!


MK
Old 05-23-2019, 02:33 PM
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NelaK
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I would also recommend getting an oil analysis kit. They're not too expensive and they can catch issues with your car before any serious symptoms start showing up.
Old 05-23-2019, 08:01 PM
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DWPC
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Originally Posted by oldskewel
I bet someone on this site has already put together a good DIY on this job.

I've got a 2004 S, and I think the procedure is the same for turbo's prior to 2008.

For me, here are my notes, which I think answer all your detailed questions....
Great details. Thanks. I've changed the oil myself in most of my cars, but not the 955. Used to have a good Pennzoil guy do it in AZ but here in OR, dealer here wants &300+, indie shop $240.
Old 05-23-2019, 09:41 PM
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Wisconsin Joe
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The Pelican write up is pretty good.

They also have a 'subsidiary' write up on removing the belly pans.

Make sure you have a BIG drain pan.

10mm socket to drop the belly pans.
8mm Allen to pull the plugs. Standard precautions for using an allen in a recessed drain plug. Standard techniques for removing them if they get stripped.
Make sure you pull both of them. There will be a fair amount of oil left behind if you don't. Oil pan 'humps' over the steering rack & crossmember.

Standard 'cap type' filter tool. Lube the O-ring and do NOT overtighten it on install.
Don't overtighten the drain plugs either. Use new crush washers. They are pretty big. My FLAPS don't carry that size, had to look a bit to find it.

Other than being careful with the plugs, having a big enough pan and finding the correct crush washers, it's an easy change.

Edit to correct the size of the bolt head on the belly pans. 10mm not 13. Duh. Also, two phillips head screws on each side (4 total).

Last edited by Wisconsin Joe; 05-31-2019 at 08:35 AM.
Old 05-28-2019, 01:36 PM
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Dilberto
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After initial fill - start car and let idle for few minutes, to allow oil filter to fully pressurize. Top off and go...


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