Brainz

I recently discovered that I've got at least one shot upper front control arm: the left front control arm visibly moves fore and aft with minimal force and the inner edge of the tire is getting rapidly worn. The right side looks fine, but it's only a matter of time.

My PIG is a 2006 CTT with only 56k miles. Here's what I'm thinking about replacing (DIY):

Definitely:
- L&R Front Upper Control Arms -- I may replace the bushings with Powerflex units -- would love to hear from anyone that's tried them. The upper control arms appear to be 2-3x the work to replace versus the lower arms, hence I'm not keen on seeing these fail again. But I'm also not looking for it to ride like a wagon on a washboard or squeak like a bunch of mice...
- L&R Lower Control Arms -- I've already got a new set in my parts bin. It's a high quality, heavy duty aftermarket part -- the rear bushings appear to be like an heavier duty "non-S" style bushing. I've also got a set of genuine Porsche "CTTS" rear control arm bushings and could press those in, but honestly, the aftermarket part looks more robust and it seems like a lot of work to swap the bushings. So instead, I'm thinking of Jimi-fixing the bushings that are in the new unit by filling them with some Window Weld prior to installation. Thoughts?

Maybe:
- Shock tower bushings? I've seen no reports of these being a typical wear item (unlike other cars I've owned), but if you're going to do the Upper Control Arms, it seems like a reasonably cheap "while you're in there", although it looks to require some [modest?] additional labor to unbolt the air bag from the top mounting cradle to get to the shock bushing. Anyone have any experience on these?

Probably not:
- Tie rods: They seem fine, and it's easy enough to go back and change these out once I get in there and determine if they feel too loose.
- Sway bar links and bushings: Same as the tie rods -- I've not seen a lot of reports of either of these failing.

Any other ideas or tips from those that did the front suspension?

tats

I'd do the sway bar drop links too. Cheap and very quick to change.

fortysixandtwo

From what I recall, the uppers were fairly easy to replace. While the strut assembly was out I replaced the strut bushings too. At 120K miles, they has broken apart. Replacement wasn't bad either. I reused the air spring o-ring (make sure the sealing surface is 100% clean), and make sure to protect the strut shaft while clamping it to remove the strut nut. An impact tool helps to remove that nut since it will be less likely to rotate the strut shaft. I used an impact driver designed for screws, so you don't need* one sized for lug nuts and other chassis bolts.

One thing I wish I had done before taking it apart was get a reference angle for the upper control arm to the upper strut casting while the vehicle is at ride height. Knowing this angle will allow you set the arm angle and torque the upper control arm bolts while its on the bench. You cannot get a socket on the bolts when its installed in the car, so I just found it easier to do on the bench.

*but its a good excuse to justify buying one.

Brainz

Great suggestions. Especially the part about measuring the control arm angles. My plan was to measure the wheel center to fender distance and use a jack to raise the LOWER control arm to that height for torqueing. But I'd not thought about the upper control arm angles - - you have to torque those off the car. Good tip.

I'm encouraged to hear you didn't find the uppers to be that bad. I've watched the videos online and it seems manageable. But it's always the frozen bolt, or broken connector that turns the job into a much bigger project...

deilenberger

Brainz - photos please! Let's make a DIY out of the project..

Thanks!

DIYDanCars

It has been my experience if the lower control arms are bad, more than likely your upper control arms aren't too far behind. I would also recommend you do the strut mounts and end links while you are in there. Are the plastic dust boots to the air struts falling apart? If so, now is a good time to replace them.

Maybe my DIY control arm video might be of assistance? I spent a lot of time on this video, but it hasn't received many likes or views. I'm thinking this will probably be the last in depth big DIY video I do... I think most owners just outsource a job this big. Good luck!

Brainz

DIYDan: Your video is one of my primary resources and reasons I'm even going to try this myself. I've watched it twice now, thanks for the good work -- I'll be sure to give it a like. And good suggestion on the boots -- I need to double check mine, but I think they're OK.

Don E: I'll do a modified write up with some links to Dan's video, another I found on the Q7 (same suspension as the PIG) and the Arnott industries front airbag replacement instructions. Together, they seem pretty complete on the replacement instructions. I'll focus on the tips and gotchas, as the other's seem to capture the process pretty well.

deilenberger

Sounds great - thanks! Meanwhile, I'm going to add a DIY post for Dan's video.. that should get it some more views..

Done: https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...ent-video.html

CTTS520

DIYDan: I wish your video was available when I replaced my uca's and strut mounts. Would have been a big help. Good job

Brainz

Don, you should add these references as well for this topic:

Q7 Lower Control Arm video: - Makes it look like a 15 minute job per side

Arnott Industries Front Airbag Replacement: http://arnottinfo.com/manuals/A-2571.pdf
- It covers removing the front strut, shock tower bushing, airbag replacement, and provides a good overview of what's required for access to the upper control arm.

J'sWorld

Make sure you can get the WW arms off. They can be tight. One of the upper strut mount bolts is accessed from the cowl. +1 on the strut mounts. They clunk and are almost always shot by this point. I did my original lower shock bushings in the lower arms and the new ones deflect a ton just sitting there. Might as well do everything. Once you get the strut and upper out the bottom is cake. Just do it all and send me the bill.

Brainz

Here's another great resource by DIYDan:
I'd not seen it previously, but it popped up on my YouTube feed (because Google knows everything I do and think).

Great video! Thanks Dan. Did you reuse the 4 bolts on the top of the strut mount? They appear to seal air, so I'm assuming if you did, you put some blue thread locker on there at a minimum? I'm sure there's a better compound, but have no idea what or if it matters.

Brainz

No kidding on removing the wipers -- that always gives me the sweats, and is precisely the step that none of the DIY videos show (and that I thought I'd add). I've got a puller, so hopefully no issues when the time comes...

Any advice on a good ball joint separator? Not a fan of pickle forks. Apparently the PIG has big balls joints. I'm thinking about getting one of these:
Appears the Gear Wrench one either works, or can be ground a bit to work, but I'd spends another 20 bucks to avoid the grinding if anyone has a suggestion.

Jamescoop

Check out these ridiculously inexpensive replacements

Brainz

I've seen those, and others like them. They make me nervous -- are they OEM quality or Chindian junk? I'm OK spending double (or triple?) that to know I'm getting ball joints that will last a long time. I'm looking mostly at the usual German/Euro brands: Lemforder, Meyle, TRW, etc. Also at some of the better aftermarket stuff: Mevotech and Moog, for example.