When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Good morning...from where I am sitting.
First - thanks for inputs, much appreciated. A few things:
I havn't done the compression test yet - havn't had time. I am still convinced its a lifter or valve related issue, piston slap has a different sound to it plus it usually makes the engine run rough and burn oil. The ticking I have is very steady and rhythmic and to me is classic lifter collapse. On this engine that would the exhaust side. But hey..... I've been wrong before..... :-)
Thanks for info on Variocam. It has now been ruled out!
To follow up - the car starts fine, idles as it should, and full power is definitely there and it does not smoke or burn oil. It runs like a Porsche should except for the godd**n ticking! The PCV is fairly new OEM part (got the receipt from Porsche) and I have inspected all vacuum lines. All good. The spark plugs were wrong and have been replaced to correct OEM Bosch. Two plugs were a bit sooted but dry which indicate a rich condition. But we are talking minor fouleding here...! And that was most likely related to it was the wrong plugs installed with a fairly big gap...! Intake have been cleaned - which is the smoke you can see in the video. I did not use Seafoam, but a product similar to the CRC GDI cleaner (its sprayed into manifold in slow burst)....seems to work.
Oil plus filter change done, oil is Mobil1 0W40 full synthetic. The old oil filter was fine and had no shavings in it.
I will keep updating this post with the findings in november. Stay tuned :-)
By the way - can anyone provide some info on where or which repair/workshop manual to get...?
Last edited by hvirvelsplat; 10-28-2017 at 03:09 PM.
Reason: adding txt.
I'll second that. The Alldata DIY subscription can be had for around $15 - and they take the trouble to distill down the 11,000 page manual to something that's actually useable.
The factory manual will do EACH procedure for EACH model of the Cayenne, so you'll see something like changing the cabin filter - identical writeups for the 6 cylinder base, the S model V8, the turbo V8, the turbo-S V8. Alldata will just show you the filter change for the model you subscribed to. It's even worse with the factory manual for the 958 series since there are several additional models - the same process will be repeated for about 6-7 times. Identical, and repeated.
Greetings. Problem found ..... it is cylinder scoring!! Especially on cylinder 5!
TomF: You hit the nail on the head...Im impressed..!!! Im pretty confident on engine work and fault finding, but I stand corrected on this one. I could have sworn lifter tick, but evidence is clear.
So here is what happen: My last borescope was useless... and its 100% my own fault. I used a crap and cheap endoscope I had from a job on the house A/C duct. However, its screen is crap and in sunlight
the resolution did not show details enough. Lesson one.... Get quality tools!
I pulled all plugs again and sure enough the fouling was clear - especially on cylinder 5 and 8 (cylinder 5 is worst) See pics. ....Continue reading below pictures:
Cylinder 1.
Cylinder 2.
Cylinder 3.
Cylinder 4.
Cylinder 5.
Cylinder 6.
Cylinder 7.
Cylinder 8.
Then I went out and purchased a new endoscope with better resolution and ability to save pictures. Here is what I found (quality is still not the best - but clear enough). I have only uploaded from cylinder 5, but all 8 cylinders show signs of scoring, number 5 is worst.
Cylinder 5.
Cylinder 5.
Cylinder 5.
Cylinder 5.
So - even though the evidence is clear I ran a compression test. The test was done on cold engine, first dry and then wet. Here is the data:
Havn't decided yet - but man..... I am really disappointed with Porsche....!! What the hell happen from the 993 days...?
Anyway - thanks for input.
993s have engine issues too, isn't that the one with valve guides that go? With a very few exceptions, Porsche engines are very expensive time bombs. Every one I have owned has had a potentially serious engine flaw. The best part is that you have to figure out how to rebuild it yourself because they do not provide the build specs...
They build crazy good vehicles but long term ownership is always a gamble with them IMO.
993s have engine issues too, isn't that the one with valve guides that go? With a very few exceptions, Porsche engines are very expensive time bombs. Every one I have owned has had a potentially serious engine flaw. The best part is that you have to figure out how to rebuild it yourself because they do not provide the build specs...
They build crazy good vehicles but long term ownership is always a gamble with them IMO.
There is a CEL issue with the 993 that has to do with the emissions system that can be difficult to fix and it will eventually return due to build up of carbon.
All air cooled engines had issues with valve guide wear over time.
The 996 and 997 were plagued with IMS bearing failures.
The list goes on. It's a fact of life with any high performance car.
I am happy to say the 996 GT3 engines have been absolutely bulletproof as they are built around a proven race engine.
That being said, the 996 GT3 and Turbos have issues with the aluminum coolant pipes disengaging from the engine manifold over time. They were held in with epoxy!
If you want a reliable and totally trouble free Porsche I did find this:
There is a CEL issue with the 993 that has to do with the emissions system that can be difficult to fix and it will eventually return due to build up of carbon.
All air cooled engines had issues with valve guide wear over time.
The 996 and 997 were plagued with IMS bearing failures.
The list goes on. It's a fact of life with any high performance car.
I am happy to say the 996 GT3 engines have been absolutely bulletproof as they are built around a proven race engine.
That being said, the 996 GT3 and Turbos have issues with the aluminum coolant pipes disengaging from the engine manifold over time. They were held in with epoxy!
If you want a reliable and totally trouble free Porsche I did find this:
Not only is it free of maintenance, but the total cost of ownership is no more than the price of a traffic ticket. That's as good as it gets.
I went through the rebuild route recently for the same problem and had a tough time making the decision of what to do. Rebuilt, sleeved and preemptive parts replaced I am enjoying my 08 CTT. Expensive but few options and parking it in the front yard on blocks is not a good one!
I went through the rebuild route recently for the same problem and had a tough time making the decision of what to do. Rebuilt, sleeved and preemptive parts replaced I am enjoying my 08 CTT. Expensive but few options and parking it in the front yard on blocks is not a good one!
Who did you use to sleeve the motor ? If you don’t mind me asking what did everything cost you ?
Who did you use to sleeve the motor ? If you don €™t mind me asking what did everything cost you ?
I used a German specialty shop in the Denver Metro area. They sent it to Millenium Tech or engineering and it was there a long time. I do not know what that part of it cost with shop mark up. I know what I was charged for it but will only share that in private so I don't get criticized publicly for high or low charge opinions of others.
Other engine machine shops experienced and known here are LN and Flat6.
Talk to Carl at 928 motorsports. He is very well known here on Rennlist and has a great reputation. He was very helpful in helping me evaluate my options and explaining the services his company offers. I also spoke with Jacques at LN Engineering as well. In either case re-sleaved block is going to run $5-6k plus shipping. If you do a full rebuild yourself, you are probably looking at another $3-4k in parts to do it right, but that is just a ballpark. Guys like Mr. Haney and Toureg certainly have lots of experience here.
Honestly, these engines are seriously well engineered (flame suit on!) and I really think doing a rebuild would be a fun project. If my car hadn't been totaled by an idiot head-on, I would have done my rebuild last winter and had personal experiences and tips to share. Jake Raby's Porsche V8 class was a good intro, but there is no substitute for learning hands on.
I think it is time for someone to do a extensive write-up about this issue and the options available as well as aggregating the threads about other's experiences, including all the TSB's, videos and sound clips. I'll see if I have the time in the coming weeks.
Also, I have been thinking that it's time for Rennlister's to put their heads together and get ahold of a factory (or factory copy) diagram of the engine removal jig. It is really the best and only way to go save tons of time and effort. Several here on the board have been successful using other methods, but after seeing the factory system, it really is great. I would fab one up or get one fabbed if someone can get the specs... anyone have access?
Greetings. Problem found ..... it is cylinder scoring!! Especially on cylinder 5!
TomF: You hit the nail on the head...Im impressed..!!! Im pretty confident on engine work and fault finding, but I stand corrected on this one. I could have sworn lifter tick, but evidence is clear.
Sorry to hear that, man, but I am not surprised. I am trying to gather a bit more data for a future write up on this issue. I think that there are several contributing factors to this problem, but I would like to eliminate some as well.
A question:
Were your coilpacks cracked? Especially on #5? Before anyone jumps on me that it's unrelated, I would like to explore all the myriad of options that could contribute, even in a small way, to this failure. This has to do with cylinder "wash" in DFI engines...
Sorry for your misfortune, and I hope your project turns out great in the end!
I recently changed all 8 coils on my TTS cayenne (4 shown on picture just for difference). When I got out coils, ALL of them were cracked, but car drove excellent. Don't know how,but no problem at all. After installing brand new spark plug and brand new coils (COSMO RACING) noticeable difference
Thanks for posting the pics. Coilpacks are a wear item, like plugs and they really need to be checked regularly. It is also important to note that the NA and Turbo packs are not the same and cannot be interchanged. Also, if you purchase new ones, make darn sure they are sending you the latest iteration. The NA ones have gone through many revisions and the Turbo ones about half as many. Lots of discount parts shops sell the older versions.
Can you post pics of the other four? The reason is that it doesn't appear that there was any burning on the side of the coilpacks due to arcing. When the cracks get severe, there are telltale scorching marks on near the cracks...
When I changed the coilpacks out on my new to me 2009 CTTS when I bought it at 70k miles this Feb, 7 of 8 were cracked, but none arcing and burnt. On my last CTT, a 2008 w/ 60k, all were cracked and two were cracked badly enough that they were arcing. Regrettably, I did not make a note if the arcing two were from either of the two scored cylinders.
Thanks for posting the pics. Coilpacks are a wear item, like plugs and they really need to be checked regularly. It is also important to note that the NA and Turbo packs are not the same and cannot be interchanged. Also, if you purchase new ones, make darn sure they are sending you the latest iteration. The NA ones have gone through many revisions and the Turbo ones about half as many. Lots of discount parts shops sell the older versions.
Can you post pics of the other four? The reason is that it doesn't appear that there was any burning on the side of the coilpacks due to arcing. When the cracks get severe, there are telltale scorching marks on near the cracks...
When I changed the coilpacks out on my new to me 2009 CTTS when I bought it at 70k miles this Feb, 7 of 8 were cracked, but none arcing and burnt. On my last CTT, a 2008 w/ 60k, all were cracked and two were cracked badly enough that they were arcing. Regrettably, I did not make a note if the arcing two were from either of the two scored cylinders.
Thanks!
I will send you pics when I get home. 1-2hrs. No problem. I don't have any arcing on any coil. I hear about revision first time now. I don't know what revision is Cosmo Racing coil. So basicaly after every revision there is difference!?
10-28-2017, 03:08 PM
