Picking up this 986S tonight!
06-15-2017, 07:25 PM
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks Macster. I will research the oil situation. Thanks for details on the drainage.
Pelican Parts: Love your contributions. Reading right now... that's a Tinto Limon. Spanish red wine and sparkling lemon soda (San Pelligrino). Fell in love with it while in Córdoba Spain.
Pelican Parts: Love your contributions. Reading right now... that's a Tinto Limon. Spanish red wine and sparkling lemon soda (San Pelligrino). Fell in love with it while in Córdoba Spain.
Last edited by sequel95; 06-17-2017 at 11:33 AM.
06-17-2017, 11:42 AM
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
OK. Had a few hiccups in the first few days of ownership. Battery was low and car would not start. Charged battery with my new Schumacher charger and car started fine. Drove it 1 hour away to a golf outing. 8 hours later it started but barely. Windows would not work. Got it home (TG!) and began researching. Decided to get new battery. Old one was 4.5 years old. So picked up H7 DuraMaxx at Walmart for $149. Installed it, and car started but windows did not work, remote for door locks did not do anything but beep horn twice. Rear defogger rocker did not work nor did door locks rocker. Found a post from a guy with a 996 and he suggested checking C3 fuse. Yep that was it. So replaced it and we are back in business. Won't be taking it far from home until I do a few local trips. Checking voltage regularly to make sure battery is not being depleted.
Also I have an oil leak on passenger side valve cover area dripping a tiny amount of oil on muffler. I think it is the spark plug hole grommet. Will look at that issue tomorrow!
Also I have an oil leak on passenger side valve cover area dripping a tiny amount of oil on muffler. I think it is the spark plug hole grommet. Will look at that issue tomorrow!
06-19-2017, 02:43 PM
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
I am trying to source the cam cover oil leak. Looks like it is coming from a bolt and probably from the spark plug tubes. Ordered the tubes and new rubber washers from P dealer. Also ordered one camshaft cover bolt. The cover was taken off before I bought it and with the extra gasket material on the edge + the small remnants in the oil leads me to conclude the tech who did the work did not do it right. So I plan to drain oil, clean up, remove tubes and that one bolt. Will replace that one bolt with the new one and use Permatex Black on threads and torque to 10 ft lb. Macster, if you are reading this, I have seen your posts on this topic. Very much appreciated. One more thing: A shop in MKE replaced the alternator pulley a couple years ago. Strange that it looks rusty. Any thoughts as to why this "new pulley" (that PO paid about $300 to have installed) looks old? I wish the PO would have just requested a rebuilt alternator. Seems like an easier solution.
06-19-2017, 04:50 PM
#19
Race Director
Properly installing the camshaft cover is critical. The cover contains the upper halves of all the camshaft bearings. There are no inserts. The camshaft cover/head is machined (line bored) as an assembly.
The camshaft needs sealant, and the right type, but the sealant is not just slathered on but should be applied rather precisely in a bead of the right diameter and the bead run correctly.
The camshaft cover is bolted down with the bolts tightened in the correct sequence -- from the middle out I think but don't quote me -- and the sealant squeezed down until the camshaft cover makes metal to metal contact with the mating surface of the head.
The camshaft cover seal is the sealant that fills the tiny depressions that are purposely machined into the camshaft cover and the mating surface of the head which creates a seal with zero thickness. This ensures not only the camshaft cover doesn't leak oil outside the engine but also the holes that supply high pressure oil from the head to the camshaft cover and its bearing halves doesn't leak out internally. If this happens some of the camshaft bearings may not have sufficient oil pressure/supply and possibly one or more lifters could be short of oil pressure/supply as well.
An excess of sealant is just as bad. The excess squeezes out and gets into the oil. The smaller pieces get pulled in through the screen at the inlet end of the engine oil pump pick up tube and go through the pump and then are caught by the filter. If the pieces are too large these could just block some oil flow into the pick up tube.
Or the sealant squeezes into the oil hole and blocks oil from making it to the camshaft bearings.
If the camshaft cover is suspected of leaking I'd be reluctant to try a band aid fix but instead look into having the camshaft cover removed and everything cleaned up and the camshaft cover oil holes/passages blown out and the cover resealed correctly.
Removed and resealed because the quality of the previous job is questionable.
New bolts should be used. Not because they are stretch bolts -- at least I don't think they are -- but because they come micro-encapsulated to prevent oil from seeping out through the threads and from out around the bolt heads.
It is also important to resist adding more tightening torque. All this will do is warp the camshaft cover and could result in decreased bearing clearance in some camshaft bearings. This can lead to wear and then one has a big problem as the camshaft cover bearings and their other halves in the head do not have inserts. Once the bearings are worn the steps necessary to address this could require very expensive machine work or more likely fitting a replacement head/camshaft cover.
The alternator pulley is very rusty. I would find it hard to believe that is a new pulley. Therefore I suspect the pulley is a used one. The labor charge of $300 works for both a new and used pulley. The bulk of the cost is to get access to the thing, probably remove the alternator, then remove the old pulley, press on the new (or used) pulley, then put the alternator back in the car.
A "rebuilt" alternator may not come with a new pulley and it may not be as good as the alternator in the car. If the alternator in the car is working ok I'd let sleeping dogs lie. But I have to wonder why was a new alternator pulley required? The one on my Boxster is original and has covered over 310K miles. Pulleys are not, should not be, wear items if everything is ok.
The camshaft needs sealant, and the right type, but the sealant is not just slathered on but should be applied rather precisely in a bead of the right diameter and the bead run correctly.
The camshaft cover is bolted down with the bolts tightened in the correct sequence -- from the middle out I think but don't quote me -- and the sealant squeezed down until the camshaft cover makes metal to metal contact with the mating surface of the head.
The camshaft cover seal is the sealant that fills the tiny depressions that are purposely machined into the camshaft cover and the mating surface of the head which creates a seal with zero thickness. This ensures not only the camshaft cover doesn't leak oil outside the engine but also the holes that supply high pressure oil from the head to the camshaft cover and its bearing halves doesn't leak out internally. If this happens some of the camshaft bearings may not have sufficient oil pressure/supply and possibly one or more lifters could be short of oil pressure/supply as well.
An excess of sealant is just as bad. The excess squeezes out and gets into the oil. The smaller pieces get pulled in through the screen at the inlet end of the engine oil pump pick up tube and go through the pump and then are caught by the filter. If the pieces are too large these could just block some oil flow into the pick up tube.
Or the sealant squeezes into the oil hole and blocks oil from making it to the camshaft bearings.
If the camshaft cover is suspected of leaking I'd be reluctant to try a band aid fix but instead look into having the camshaft cover removed and everything cleaned up and the camshaft cover oil holes/passages blown out and the cover resealed correctly.
Removed and resealed because the quality of the previous job is questionable.
New bolts should be used. Not because they are stretch bolts -- at least I don't think they are -- but because they come micro-encapsulated to prevent oil from seeping out through the threads and from out around the bolt heads.
It is also important to resist adding more tightening torque. All this will do is warp the camshaft cover and could result in decreased bearing clearance in some camshaft bearings. This can lead to wear and then one has a big problem as the camshaft cover bearings and their other halves in the head do not have inserts. Once the bearings are worn the steps necessary to address this could require very expensive machine work or more likely fitting a replacement head/camshaft cover.
The alternator pulley is very rusty. I would find it hard to believe that is a new pulley. Therefore I suspect the pulley is a used one. The labor charge of $300 works for both a new and used pulley. The bulk of the cost is to get access to the thing, probably remove the alternator, then remove the old pulley, press on the new (or used) pulley, then put the alternator back in the car.
A "rebuilt" alternator may not come with a new pulley and it may not be as good as the alternator in the car. If the alternator in the car is working ok I'd let sleeping dogs lie. But I have to wonder why was a new alternator pulley required? The one on my Boxster is original and has covered over 310K miles. Pulleys are not, should not be, wear items if everything is ok.
06-19-2017, 05:00 PM
#20
I can see some oil glistening around the spark plug tube. Fix that leak and then see if you still have an oil leak before starting to mess with the heads. Remember that there is air blowing around the engine when you drive, so oil may end up in strange places depending on the air flow.
06-19-2017, 05:43 PM
#21
Instructor
Thread Starter
Macster and Anker, thank you. I had some latex like material in my oil filter (just pulled it and cleaned with a brush and put back in while I wait for LN shipment). No metal sparkles to worry me now, but a few small pieces of gasket material. I agree Macster proper removal of the cover and clean up etc is needed. I will work on that project this fall. Will probably get the courage to remove sump plate and see what is in there.
Frustrating on the rusty pulley. Must have been a used part the mechanic had lying around. So annoying.
The gasket pieces below are on a piece of wood 2"x3" or so. Very small pieces.
Frustrating on the rusty pulley. Must have been a used part the mechanic had lying around. So annoying.
The gasket pieces below are on a piece of wood 2"x3" or so. Very small pieces.
06-19-2017, 08:12 PM
#22
Race Director
If the lighter colored stuff that is pictured was used to seal the camshaft cover that is not the right stuff.
The correct camshaft cover sealant is black. (It is sealant, not a gasket material. As I said above the camshaft cover and head bolt together with metal to metal contact.)
I'd be careful about waiting until the fall to address a reseal of the camshaft cover. I have no confidence it is properly installed even if it is not leaking.
Regardless of when you do this be sure you have the proper camshaft cover bolt tightening sequence and steps available.
And be sure you know how to secure the camshafts that the camshaft cover holds in place. If a cam "jumps" time you'll regret it a long time.
The correct camshaft cover sealant is black. (It is sealant, not a gasket material. As I said above the camshaft cover and head bolt together with metal to metal contact.)
I'd be careful about waiting until the fall to address a reseal of the camshaft cover. I have no confidence it is properly installed even if it is not leaking.
Regardless of when you do this be sure you have the proper camshaft cover bolt tightening sequence and steps available.
And be sure you know how to secure the camshafts that the camshaft cover holds in place. If a cam "jumps" time you'll regret it a long time.
06-22-2017, 04:24 PM
#23
Instructor
Thread Starter
Macster and Anker. Thanks again for all your tips. I wrapped up this phase of repair this morning. Here is what I did:
1. Replaced passenger side spark plug tubes with new washers all from local Porsche dealer.
2. Removed, cleaned and replaced oil sump cover. Used Loctite 518 for sealant. I understand many are using Drei Bond, but I decided to go with Loctite 518 as many have used this over the years. I figure it has to last 10000 miles so I will use Drei Bond next time.
3. I decided against removing and resealing the camshaft cover at this time. I needed to get car back on road today. I know the right thing to do is remove it and clean it up and torque properly. This will be a project later this summer. Based on records I have, this cam cover was resealed in 2004 due to a leak. The RMS was also replaced. The sealant used was gray and I assume it was a VW Victor Reinz Renzosil. I believe the tech used too much sealant and what was squished into the inside finally fell off and was caught by the pickup tube and the oil filter. I will monitor my oil from this point forward.
4. Replaced oil filter with WIX 57211 and some Valvoline 10w40. Will run this for about 500 miles and then am switching to Joe Gibbs DT40 and the LN spin on filter, magnetic plug and magnetic sleeve for oil filter.
5. Removed mirror and sent to Radar-Mirror per Macster's recommendation.
Boxster is running great. Just noticed the seam on rear window is coming apart slightly. Not a huge deal for a 16 year old car.
Thanks guys!
1. Replaced passenger side spark plug tubes with new washers all from local Porsche dealer.
2. Removed, cleaned and replaced oil sump cover. Used Loctite 518 for sealant. I understand many are using Drei Bond, but I decided to go with Loctite 518 as many have used this over the years. I figure it has to last 10000 miles so I will use Drei Bond next time.
3. I decided against removing and resealing the camshaft cover at this time. I needed to get car back on road today. I know the right thing to do is remove it and clean it up and torque properly. This will be a project later this summer. Based on records I have, this cam cover was resealed in 2004 due to a leak. The RMS was also replaced. The sealant used was gray and I assume it was a VW Victor Reinz Renzosil. I believe the tech used too much sealant and what was squished into the inside finally fell off and was caught by the pickup tube and the oil filter. I will monitor my oil from this point forward.
4. Replaced oil filter with WIX 57211 and some Valvoline 10w40. Will run this for about 500 miles and then am switching to Joe Gibbs DT40 and the LN spin on filter, magnetic plug and magnetic sleeve for oil filter.
5. Removed mirror and sent to Radar-Mirror per Macster's recommendation.
Boxster is running great. Just noticed the seam on rear window is coming apart slightly. Not a huge deal for a 16 year old car.
Thanks guys!
Last edited by sequel95; 06-22-2017 at 06:24 PM.