cbracerx

Greetings all,

I'm becoming the next custodian of a manual trans 2001 S with 40kish miles in a week or so. It needs a RMS and still has the original IMS bearing. Also needs a steering rack (leaks) but I think I've got that covered. I've done engine drops on my former 987 S so no worries with the basics of getting to the trans. I'm wondering if the IMS type (single vs. double) can be determined from the VIN/Engine number or if it has to be observed once I have the engine out.

Chris

And since TTIUWP

NewArt

No way to tell apparently. I would guess single but a guess is a guess. LN puts out a "staggered" double row replacement for the single. It's pricey but probably the way to go imho.

Macster

My memory is one needs to see the installed IMS bearing to know for sure what type/style it is. One can't even go by the depth of the IMS end flange.

While the rack could have developed a leak on it own often a steering rack leak can be due to a failed high pressure bypass valve that routes too high a pressure fluid to the rack. This forces fluid out the rack seals. Often the owner doesn't know there's a problem until the power steering pump makes a noise because it is low on fluid. By this time the power steering pump is shot and so too is the rack and the line with the bypass valve needs to be replaced as well. Any remaining lines want to be flushed to remove any pump debris.

To possibly avoid subjecting the new rack to too high of fluid pressure you want to be sure the fluid pressure is ok before you replace the old rack with the new rack.

It is SOP to when replacing the RMS to also replace the IMS end flange and its bolts. The original IMS end flange came with a single o-ring that would leak. The new/improved one has a 3-ribbed seal and the bolts are micro-encapsulated to help prevent oil from seeping past the bolt threads and leaking.

Also, avoid installng the new RMS exactly where the old one was installed. The old one could have worn a shallow groove in the crank and if the new seal is installed at this same spot the new seal can leak.

cbracerx

Thanks all. I'll have to wait and see what's hiding behind the IMS shaft bearing cover. Certainly plan to update the cover and seal if that has not already been done.

WRT to the steering rack, the car has a new power steering pump and cooler added. I'll speak with the PO but I suspect this was the result of the common overheated pump from a track event and that could have caused issues with the rack seals. I'll observe it in action and see what needs to be replaced.

mikefocke

Take a look here at what LN has to say about the surety of the bearing generation. Keep in mind that replacement engines can throw even generalizations out the window. All you have to do is look at the depth of the flange (the three armed part shown in their pictures to know what lurks behind, no need to be looking at the actual bearing.

GVA-SFO

Welcome to the 986 "club".
Interesting to read that you have & had 911 before !
(I had misc. 911 for 30 years non stop, and 4 years ago, traded my last 911 ..against a Panamera.
Then, very quickly, I bought a 2001 Boxster S, ..to have a "no roof and stick shift" toy. That Boxster also become my track car.)
Looking at your avatar, ..I can add that if you want to track it, get a 4" under drive pulley.
In my side, I did not made it too soon enough, ..and now my power steering pump leaks !

Imo, the Boxster S is a fabulous track car, much more easier to drive fast than a 911.
This car has a really fantastic chassis. I would only love to have some more engine power.

About the LN, I have the same feedback as our friends above : the vin is not a "sure" way to know what is the type of your OEM ISB. The only sure way, to know if you have an OEM single or double row is to access it, as written above.

As replacement, I went for the LN "Double Row Pro", but, ..had to wait until the OEM one was removed to know what I had (it was a single row in my case).
Note that LN more than strongly recommend to get the "LN Faultless installation tool" to extract the OEM bearing, and install the "double Row Pro". If you need one, ..I still have the one that I had to buy at that time (for my mechanics, as I did not made myself !). if interested, let me know.

You may also think about changing the clutch (probably still OK at 40k !), as, ..you have to remove it to access the RMS. But, it all depend about what your are going to do with this car !
(A brand new clutch plate is not that expensive, ..compared to the amount of work to access it !)

Also, when the gearbox is out, it could be also a good time to change (preventive maintenance) the AOS.
If the AOS has never been changed, the rubber components inside may have suffered over the years.
(I think it should be easier to access the AOS when the gearbox is out !?)
Normally, the good mileage to do that is around 60k, but ???

cbracerx

Thanks GVA-SFO, I may take you up on the tool once I know what bearing is in there. Track use on the 986/987 platform is something I am familiar with, as I build a 987.1S up into a pretty capable street/track car. On that one, I ended up with 2 steering coolers and the underdrive pulley .

https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...k-edition.html

GVA-SFO

It looks like we are both kind of "similar Rennlister !"

The Cayman you sold was looking to be pretty well done, kudos.

On mine, (you can see it at :https://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-...l#post11020813)
I started with a quite old Boxster S (2001), that was own by a SCCA North Cal guy, and had already PSS9, GT3 control arms, and etc..
I tried to make it lighter, shooting on the heavy items (seats, battery Li-Ion, light rims, no roof anymore, etc..) and also did "regular/basic" engine “safety” mods, like sump extension, metal oil baffle, low temp thermostat, UDP (too late, but still !) and for sure LN Dual Row Pro.
I use (currently NT-01, but just bought a set of g-Force R1) r compound tires for track, so, the "fear" is the red light (yes, I mean the oil pressure one!!!!!) that I have seen some time (very briefly) flashing.
So, I would be VERY interested to read your feedback/comment after having a car that had an Accusump !

I can add that I also added an IPD together with large t-box, and for sure a big pipe from a performance air filter. (Or ..the only mod to try to let this 60k miles engine staying close to the original power !!)
A great mod that I did was to change the front brakes against Brembo monobloc 6 pistons calipers, with large discs. (Yes, on a track, you brake as much as you accelerate, right ?? so, waiting to get a serious engine mod, I did at least improved (seriously) the (already very good) braking !

Or, as you can read, we are pretty much on synch !
The problem I have is having no roof, the PCA "friends" do not like me, as they want arm restraint because of no roof, (this wile the Boxster Speedster, with roof in, ...are OK !), and frankly, "point to pass" (a PCA (very good) habit) is kind of ???? with the arm restraint !
But, being a country guy, when I go out for fun, I do not like to be under a roof !

Or, Yes, these Boxster are REAL super great cars !

cbracerx

Today's project: interior work. Relocated climate control, got the hands free microphone in place (stock location), installed Function First console riser and began the refinishing of the shift **** (silver) and center console (body color). After this I'll address the door pocket lids (recover in leather is the plan) then get the RMS/IMS job underway.

rossi46

Have a 99 986. Need a bit of help if anyone can. The back lights under the window switches and behind the fans and heater etc don't illuminate. Is there a particular fuse for these as im drawing a blank. Or something i can check/look at.

Thanks in advance. Im new on here so not sure how to post a new thread just yet.

Rossi

Macster

No fuse for just those lights. A5 is for instrument lights and license plate light and locating lights.

B1 is for instruments and OBD2 diagnostic port/plug, Tiptronic, and traction control.

C3 is for Alarm control module, power windows and interior lights.

E1 is cluster, daytime running lights, radio.

Recommend you get the Bentley Porsche Boxster Service Manual.

Often times dash lights or other electrical systems not coming on/working as they should is a sign the ignition switch or possibly the headlight switch is not working right. Both can wear out. The ignition switch is usually helped by having the igntiion key attached to a heavy key chain. Headlight switch is a wear item.

While not necessarily a sign of water in the cabin I have to mention you should should check for water in the cabin on the floor under the seats. Feel along the door bottoms for any signs of dampness.

Body water drains can fill up with trash and rain or wash water can back up and oveflow into the cabin.

The door membranes can leak and let water from the wet side to the dry side.

rossi46

Have a 99 986. Need a bit of help if anyone can. The back lights under the window switches and behind the fans and heater etc don't illuminate. Is there a particular fuse for these as im drawing a blank. Or something i can check/look at.

Thanks in advance. Im new on here so not sure how to post a new thread just yet.

Rossi[/QUOTE]

boxsterbran

You can try replacing the fuses. I replaced all of mine when I got the car to start with a clean slate(1999 986 Manual Boxster). The little illumination lights tend to fail now and then regardless of mileage. The lights in the instrument cluster are easily replaced by removing the whole cluster. The little lights in switches like the head light switch and window switches are integral and may not be able to be replaced and you just throw a new switch in, same with window switches. The little light in the ash tray and glove box are replaceable. Most switch lights are hard or impossible to change so you just put new switches in. The cigarette lighter/12v socket light is replaceable. The heater control on the "center stack" of the dashboard has replaceable lights behind it. The trim bits to the sides that hold the AC controller etc switches pop off then the trim around the heater/AC control panel pops off for access then you pull the whole unit out and the lights are behind the temp/AC screens. Similar to many 90's German cars. The digital displays themselves can have pixels fail and then you need to replace the whole thing. I recommend Ebay for good used parts like this since new ones from the dealer cost a bundle. Like mentioned else where here, the Bentley manual should be the first thing you buy when purchasing a 986 or any car.