Re-introduction... Boxster LS3 V8~
03-27-2016, 09:16 AM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Re-introduction... Boxster LS3 V8~
Greetings everyone,
I'm back because I hear this is where most of the speed freaks hang out
I've signed up for the Wanna Go Fast 1/2 mile drag racing event in about a month and figured I should check out the competition and look for some pointers since it's my first time doing the half mile.
It's been a while since I lurked around here, so many forums, so little time! I mostly hung out the the 951 section when I had that, but lately i've been into the ol' Boxsters, which I don't care what the haters say, they are awesome cars. Bang for the buck not sure there is anything better!
That said they can always be MADE better
About a year and a half ago I bought my first Boxster at a Copart auction which had been donated with "Mechanical damage". Surprisingly enough it drove well but had the tell tale signs of cooling issues... new water pump, bottles of coolant in the trunk etc. Drove it like I stole it for a week or two, swapped the oil cooler out etc. and determined that the motor was kaput - oil in the coolant, coolant in the oil, it was pretty bad. So began project Boxster LS376-480!
I documented the project over on the 986 forums if you want to check it out, http://986forum.com/forums/show-tell...onversion.html
Basically I used the Renegade Hybrids mounting kit with all the bells and whistles, and installed a new LS376-480 crate motor from Chevy which is basically a 2013 Corvette engine with the optional GM hot cam which makes 480 HP.
So as it sits today I have put a little over 3,500 miles on the car and after a few initial lumps and bumps it is doing well. I've been making more and more improvements as I go and am currently in the process of making a cold air box setup. Depending on how it turns out I may show it off, although I must warn that Home Depot helped me out on this one.
Anyway if any of you are in the Georgia are and are interested in checking the car out, i'm registered for the Wanna Go Fast event in Clayton, GA but only for Saturday May 14th. The event info can be found here: http://www.wannagofast.com/clayton2.php
Thanks!
J
I'm back because I hear this is where most of the speed freaks hang out
I've signed up for the Wanna Go Fast 1/2 mile drag racing event in about a month and figured I should check out the competition and look for some pointers since it's my first time doing the half mile.It's been a while since I lurked around here, so many forums, so little time! I mostly hung out the the 951 section when I had that, but lately i've been into the ol' Boxsters, which I don't care what the haters say, they are awesome cars. Bang for the buck not sure there is anything better!
That said they can always be MADE better
About a year and a half ago I bought my first Boxster at a Copart auction which had been donated with "Mechanical damage". Surprisingly enough it drove well but had the tell tale signs of cooling issues... new water pump, bottles of coolant in the trunk etc. Drove it like I stole it for a week or two, swapped the oil cooler out etc. and determined that the motor was kaput - oil in the coolant, coolant in the oil, it was pretty bad. So began project Boxster LS376-480!I documented the project over on the 986 forums if you want to check it out, http://986forum.com/forums/show-tell...onversion.html
Basically I used the Renegade Hybrids mounting kit with all the bells and whistles, and installed a new LS376-480 crate motor from Chevy which is basically a 2013 Corvette engine with the optional GM hot cam which makes 480 HP.
So as it sits today I have put a little over 3,500 miles on the car and after a few initial lumps and bumps it is doing well. I've been making more and more improvements as I go and am currently in the process of making a cold air box setup. Depending on how it turns out I may show it off, although I must warn that Home Depot helped me out on this one.
Anyway if any of you are in the Georgia are and are interested in checking the car out, i'm registered for the Wanna Go Fast event in Clayton, GA but only for Saturday May 14th. The event info can be found here: http://www.wannagofast.com/clayton2.php
Thanks!
J
03-28-2016, 07:51 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Sure! I have a few I can post.
Cooling is fine, as long as you understand how the system is working as there is a little bit of arguing between the Porsche/Chevy stuff, but it works very well. I have upgraded/replaced the entire cooling system, all new hoses etc, but most importantly upgraded the radiators to CSF all aluminum units which have a bit more capacity.
On the temp gauge if you are moving along it usually chills at around 185*-195* and will climb if you sit at red lights, but you have to understand the there are 2 coolant sensors in play and the temperature you are reading on the dashboard is actually a bit hotter then the Chevy ECU reads.
The Chevy uses a temp sensor at the front of the head where the cool water enters. When you integrate it into the Porsche system, the easiest thing to do is simply re-tap the un-used temp sensor hole on the second head, plug up the Porsche wiring to it and voila! The only downside to this is the temp gauge then reads the coolant temp once it has passed through 1/2 of the motor so the temp on the gauge is a bit hotter then the ECU sees.
The only bad thing which I have not figured out a work around for is setting off the flashing red low coolant sensor of death. You see for whatever reason once the Chevy motor gets up to temp, it burps or something and causes the low coolant level sensor light to start flashing. Unfortunately the only way to reset it is to reboot the car as I tried to just unplug it and it just won't reset.
I could always just unplug the level sensor but I would prefer not to just in case there is ever a catastrophic loss of coolant, better to be annoyed then to be out of coolant!!
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Thanks!
J
Cooling is fine, as long as you understand how the system is working as there is a little bit of arguing between the Porsche/Chevy stuff, but it works very well. I have upgraded/replaced the entire cooling system, all new hoses etc, but most importantly upgraded the radiators to CSF all aluminum units which have a bit more capacity.
On the temp gauge if you are moving along it usually chills at around 185*-195* and will climb if you sit at red lights, but you have to understand the there are 2 coolant sensors in play and the temperature you are reading on the dashboard is actually a bit hotter then the Chevy ECU reads.
The Chevy uses a temp sensor at the front of the head where the cool water enters. When you integrate it into the Porsche system, the easiest thing to do is simply re-tap the un-used temp sensor hole on the second head, plug up the Porsche wiring to it and voila! The only downside to this is the temp gauge then reads the coolant temp once it has passed through 1/2 of the motor so the temp on the gauge is a bit hotter then the ECU sees.
The only bad thing which I have not figured out a work around for is setting off the flashing red low coolant sensor of death. You see for whatever reason once the Chevy motor gets up to temp, it burps or something and causes the low coolant level sensor light to start flashing. Unfortunately the only way to reset it is to reboot the car as I tried to just unplug it and it just won't reset.
I could always just unplug the level sensor but I would prefer not to just in case there is ever a catastrophic loss of coolant, better to be annoyed then to be out of coolant!!
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Thanks!
J
03-28-2016, 09:15 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks! I like it too
I don't think it is a bleeding issue although anything is possible. I had this same problem initially and since I have already re-made a part of the cooling system to add the 160* t-stat and re-route some hoses for ground clearance after lowering it.
Both times the system was vacuum filled with a power bleeder so I dunno. I'm sure someone out there can figure it out, but I know how to work around it so I'm not to worried. It would be nice to figure it out though.
Budget has been pretty tight lately but may have some spare change soon and may sign up for an HPDE or something similar. I would really like to take the car to Road Atlanta as it handles really really well since I installed the H&R suspension, we will see.
In the mean time I did sign up for that half mile drag racing event I mentioned in the first post. Not really what the car was meant for but to be honest I just want to get a good video of the car above 70+ mph to show how damn fast it moves!
We will just say that I've made a few videos on the street that would certainly draw the interest of people I don't wanna make friends with so this event will allow me to do that!
Plus it will be interesting to see if I run out of track or gear first. Did some online calculating and it seems the gearing will be good to about 167mph, but the car should do 120+ in the 1/4 mile so we will have to see how much steam it picks up on the last half of the race.
I don't think it is a bleeding issue although anything is possible. I had this same problem initially and since I have already re-made a part of the cooling system to add the 160* t-stat and re-route some hoses for ground clearance after lowering it.
Both times the system was vacuum filled with a power bleeder so I dunno. I'm sure someone out there can figure it out, but I know how to work around it so I'm not to worried. It would be nice to figure it out though.
Budget has been pretty tight lately but may have some spare change soon and may sign up for an HPDE or something similar. I would really like to take the car to Road Atlanta as it handles really really well since I installed the H&R suspension, we will see.
In the mean time I did sign up for that half mile drag racing event I mentioned in the first post. Not really what the car was meant for but to be honest I just want to get a good video of the car above 70+ mph to show how damn fast it moves!
We will just say that I've made a few videos on the street that would certainly draw the interest of people I don't wanna make friends with so this event will allow me to do that!
Plus it will be interesting to see if I run out of track or gear first. Did some online calculating and it seems the gearing will be good to about 167mph, but the car should do 120+ in the 1/4 mile so we will have to see how much steam it picks up on the last half of the race.
03-29-2016, 06:49 PM
#7
Race Director
The only bad thing which I have not figured out a work around for is setting off the flashing red low coolant sensor of death. You see for whatever reason once the Chevy motor gets up to temp, it burps or something and causes the low coolant level sensor light to start flashing. Unfortunately the only way to reset it is to reboot the car as I tried to just unplug it and it just won't reset.
Could be the engine is getting hot enough in places steam pockets are forming and after a while these bubble up and push coolant out of the engine.
You sure the Chevy water pump is up to pumping coolant through the long fluid lines to the radiators and through the radiators and back again?
Could be the engine is getting hot enough in places steam pockets are forming and after a while these bubble up and push coolant out of the engine.
You sure the Chevy water pump is up to pumping coolant through the long fluid lines to the radiators and through the radiators and back again?
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03-29-2016, 07:52 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Will do!!
Yeah it is definitely not a steaming issue. It occurs the first time the motor gets up to temperature every time like clockwork. As soon as I see the gauge go past about 200* you can bet your *** the light will be coming on shortly.
Visually check the coolant tank and does not appear to drop the level but can't say i've 100% caught it in the act. Cut the car off and back on, light reset, then no more problem typically until it cools off again.
The water pump should not be an issue either as you delete the stock Chevy pump and and using a high performance Meziere electric water pump.
The one thing I think it could be is the Coolant tank itself. Chevy's don't use pressurized systems but rather it is strictly a reservoir, usually just an overflow tank basically so it is possible there is just an argument going on between the two.
I appreciate the help! Keep it coming!
J
The only bad thing which I have not figured out a work around for is setting off the flashing red low coolant sensor of death. You see for whatever reason once the Chevy motor gets up to temp, it burps or something and causes the low coolant level sensor light to start flashing. Unfortunately the only way to reset it is to reboot the car as I tried to just unplug it and it just won't reset.
Greetings Macster,
Could be the engine is getting hot enough in places steam pockets are forming and after a while these bubble up and push coolant out of the engine.
You sure the Chevy water pump is up to pumping coolant through the long fluid lines to the radiators and through the radiators and back again?
Greetings Macster,
Could be the engine is getting hot enough in places steam pockets are forming and after a while these bubble up and push coolant out of the engine.
You sure the Chevy water pump is up to pumping coolant through the long fluid lines to the radiators and through the radiators and back again?
Visually check the coolant tank and does not appear to drop the level but can't say i've 100% caught it in the act. Cut the car off and back on, light reset, then no more problem typically until it cools off again.
The water pump should not be an issue either as you delete the stock Chevy pump and and using a high performance Meziere electric water pump.
The one thing I think it could be is the Coolant tank itself. Chevy's don't use pressurized systems but rather it is strictly a reservoir, usually just an overflow tank basically so it is possible there is just an argument going on between the two.
I appreciate the help! Keep it coming!
J
