yann986

I would like to know too. Because I have same issue...

ECU Doctors

Have you guys checked your interior door handles?

These tend to need new springs in order to return the door handle to it's home position in order to fully activate the micro-switch and tell the Immobilizer that the door is not being opened.

yann986

Yes I did. Look like ok.
(btw ECU doctor told me to check that too)
I have a couple of things to check (fuses), but as my interior light is working properly... this indicate that door sensors are OK. Windows drop normal from inside and outside when pull handle.

Actually, I have these codes:

46
Control locking synchronization
Status: present
Occurance Counter: 1

34
Interior sensor faulty
Status: present
Occurance Counter: 1

I cleared them to see... but nothing change.
- I changed the gaz lock system.
- Immobilizer, ECU & key FOB - etc. are reprogramed or new. (ECU Doctors job)
- I don't have Interior alarm sensor (I have basic alarm), then I don't understand why I have code 34, and not sure if it could cause an issue to central locking...
- I can close the car manual with key (both doors). All function with the key are working (up and down windows)
- I can even trigger the alarm by trying to open the door from inside when the car is manually locked with key.

But the car don't want to lock with the FOB! lock then unlock immediately.

Very frustrating!

ECU Doctors

yann986,

This is very strange. Sorry for the frustrating situation.

I'd like to check the ECU Set one more time in a vehicle while it's here to confirm if we can duplicate the problem the same way as you see it.

I'll PM you.

yann986

Hi Guys,

Just to let you know that we finally found out...

I communicated a lot with ECU doctor and I insisted on the fact that it is very weird that I have error codes related to equipments that are not present in my car (i.e. Interior sensor) and My boxster is the basic model according serial number.

Then, ECU doctor come back to me, and they found out that I did not have the right ECU model version according VIN!
And they were right.
Model that I first sent to ECU doctor was the model installed in my car: an old and damaged M535. But it was replaced by a non-porsche garage from the previous owner... then I guess they installed this one because the did not have something else and they were not very "good"...
Then first time I sent it, ECU doctor replaced my M535 for a new M535... But after testing and researches and sent it back again, they finally found that my model should have a M531!
Now, with my M531, I have not these weird error code anymore, and can't have fob (not available with this model), then I have regular keys now. Which is fine.

Then, long short story, difficult to debug when you dont have the right ECU installed!

Then now everything is working, except my interior lock button, again. But I can now exclude ECU for this issue for sure.

Thank you ECU doctor.

Now, I still have this alarm codes:

46
Control locking synchronization
Status: present
Occurance Counter: 1

60
Central locking limit position Lock not reached
Status: present
Occurance Counter: 1

Then I still have an issue with locks, perhaps the locks system or cable. But I can properly lock and unlock doors and fuels caps with the keys. Only the interior lock button is not working and make a weird noise when locking the car...

I will have to work on that again... Never ending project :-)

ECU Doctors

Thanks for the good review.

We're happy that we helped you get the car a little closer to being completed.

I hope that you can figure out that last part of the puzzle with the cabling and actuators.

Stay in touch if you need us.

yann986

HI Guys,

Just want to share that I finally resolved last error code "Control locking synchronization" and "Central locking limit position Lock not reached"! It was the driver side door lock mechanism.
I found a used one from Audi TT used door lock part (same part number as Porsche 8N1-837-015-C) for $50...
And it worked, no sync error messages anymore, door is locking properly, no weird noise AND the interior door lock button is working again!

(I have the issue "windows is not dropping when open the door" now.. but this happen before I changed the door lock mechanism... I guess it is a sensor...)

Thank you for your help, another issue resolved.

Porscheby40

I had the same problem with my 2000 Boxster, so I purchased the same used Audi part, but for the passenger side. When I got the door panel off I discovered that the OEM part had a different method of attaching the door latch to the door handle. The Audi part had a short cable with a small rectangular plastic **** on the end. The OEM part has a small round L-shaped plastic rod. How were you able to get around that?

yann986

cromagnon

Hi all,

slightly long writeup below, looking for advice on what's going on here and if all these symptoms are related.

2010 Cayman S

It started a while back when the inside driver's door handle seemed to partially break. Door still unlatched fine but the handle was loose and wobbly. It seemed like that would trick the window into thinking the handle was pulled and the window would open 10mm. It was an intermittent problem and pushing the inside door handle closed would get the window to go all the way up. When leaving the car, locking it would also cause the window to go up. Door locking/unlocking and manual window control were all fine.

Then, a few weeks ago, I started seeing the System Fault Return to Workshop messages in my dash. At first it would clear itself after a few seconds and the car always drove fine. Recently it came on and stayed on and my car felt like it was on the verge of stalling. I got to my destination and a few hours later when I returned home, the message never appeared and the car drove perfectly fine.

Various short rides over the last few weeks were fine aside from the initial door latch problem noted above. No errors appeared, car drove fine, door locks and windows were all fine.

Now everything is happening. Can't remotely lock/unlock either door with the keyfob. I hear the clunky sound in front right of the car but the doors themselves don't respond. I can manually lock/unlock the driver's door with the key but obviously not the passenger door which is permanently stuck unlocked. The interior door lock/unlock button does nothing. Window control from inside the car for both doors is gone. Driver's window is permanently stuck open 10mm.

AND, on a short drive today, the System Fault Return to Workshop error appeared and would beep at me every 5-15 seconds. Car felt fine during all this.

WTF?

amrx7

Dealt with this same issue on my 2000 Boxster. Traced it to the door latch assemblies. Both sides there were poor connections in the main input connector to the latch assembly. I could move that connector around and see the window auto down for opening the door handle work or not work. Solution is to either replace the whole a$$emblies with the appropriate one for your year/option car or try to fix. First, I tried just zip tying the connector to force it one way, which temporarily worked, but would pretty quickly be intermittent again. Ultimately I found someone online who opened up the assembly to resolder the contacts on the inside. Since just taking apart the assembly is a real pain I resorted to using a dremel to cut off the cover of the assembly by the connector so I'd have access to the inside. Reflowed the solder on all the contacts and has remained function for over 6 months now. YMMV.

--Andy